It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 16:40
Mike G wrote:Listed buildings can be quite a complex subject. Sometimes, it isn't about the historic authenticity of the proposed change, so much as the state of play at the time of the listing. So, for instance, if it was white throughout the 19th century, but black at the point of listing, then you need a good reason to change it from black. The changes in a building through its lifetime are as interesting as the building in its original condition. I've had a number of projects where clients wanted to return a building to its original configuration but the proposals were strongly resisted by Listed Buildings because of the potential loss of the historic changes and accretions.
AJB Temple wrote:OK, I will stop here and get on with some work. Pointless carrying on until I can have a look at photo rotation again. (They have all been rotated already and should post fine, but they never do).
AJB Temple wrote:Well, not much happened on the building during the rainy spell, hence this thread slipped three pages back.
I whiled away some of my free time making 150 of these. Cladding strips for a different bit.
Making them also required sorting out the PT which decided to play up. They were originally cut by me as rough sawn roofing laths.
AJB Temple wrote:Evidently I still have the photo rotation problem.
Next job was to set up an outside workshop close to the wood. It all needs planing and is heavy stuff. The bench is just an old kitchen worktop on three heavy duty adjustable trestles.
The planer picture is a bit deceiving. The main tool is the big Triton, which was cheap and has a wide blade of 180mm. Even though the sole is magnesium, its quite heavy to walk up and down with all day. It is essential to work up against a wall or rig a tarpaulin, as it produces lots of chippings very fast. Ear protection is a must as well, as it is not quiet.
The smaller plane in the foreground is a 3" I think. I only use it for roughish work like this as has no dust collection, just side ejector ports. It's good for running across uneven bits that the long sole of the larger plane will skitter over.
The other tool is the invaluable 4" Makita belt sander, running 40 grit.
My system is: brush off the wood, quick run over across the grain with belt sander. This is just to clean enough so that I can see if there are any embedded foreign objects that will damage the planer blades. There shouldn't be as this wood has been in my hands for ages, but for the 30 seconds or so it takes to sweep the sand down a beam, its worth it.
Then the big planer does the work: typically 4 to 6 passes per face. I set the planer quite shallow at 0.75mm as I find that taking too much off in one go makes a mess and bogs the tool down in this very hard oak. It's not remotely green as it was nearly all felled in 1987 and sawn in about 1989. So its been sitting around for 30 odd years.
AJB Temple wrote:I posted about this big Triton 180mm planer before when I frequented elsewhere and gave it a positive review and "buy" recommendation for people planning on doing timber framing. Some bloke immediately posted that a mate of his had one, it was snapped at the blade point, and he definitely had not dropped it
Mike G wrote:Won't the roof timbers just sit on the plates?
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