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Mike's ext'n & renovation (sunroom stone floor & plinth)

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 17 Sep 2020, 08:40

Andyp wrote:I’m guessng that any slight inconsistencies with that cornice will be magnified when you make your beloved mitres......


Yeah, I'm expecting lots of offering-up-and-adjusting. The little ply template means I have got things reasonably consistent, but mitres are great for showing up irregularities.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Woodbloke » 17 Sep 2020, 08:44

Very 'Alan Peters' to use a woodie with a convex sole. I have a traditional jack that I modified to do the same sort of job - Rob
I no longer work for Axminster Tools & Machinery.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 17 Sep 2020, 12:14

That would be much better. My plane is too tall and narrow (and short) to be properly controllable.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 22 Sep 2020, 19:30

Sorry I've not been back to this thread for a while. I've had lots of work to do, and not enough workshop time, nor time to post a write-up here. Anyway where were we? Ah yes......coving......



I'd made these:



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I'd anticipated using this thing for doing the mitres, which I've never yet used:



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Unfortunately, the maximum size it fits is about half an inch smaller than the coving I'd made. Right, so I needed to make my own mitre guide:



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That involved cutting an accurate 45 degree piece first, but if I can remember I've got it, that will make a useful chisel guide for mitred dovetailing. I then just cut the mitres in the orthodox way:



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Time to take everything in, and glue it all together. I brought some horses in and put the oak worktop on top of them with some newspaper over it, then put everything together on top of that:



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Note the little kick in the coving, where the middle cupboard is set back. That was something of a giggle to get right. The best one of the four I cut for the left hand infill piece had a crack running through it, so it broke in half.



Here's my answer to the problem of fixing the top half of the dresser to the base unit worktop:



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Yep, I'm just going to screw it in place and slip a cover piece over the batten.



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Remember this drawing?



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Well, there's a second piece of furniture in there, on the left. It's job is to hide the underfloor heating manifold and the flow and return pipes. Whilst my wife started the painting of the dresser I thought I may as well carry on and build that thing, as I had all the wood. I started with a simple side panel, and glued it up:



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I also sliced up the wood for the shelves, just to get it out of the way:



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I had also started on the face frame:



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Whilst that was in clamps, I grabbed the piece of oak I'd set aside for the worktop:



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Not only was it in wind:



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......but it was also badly cupped:



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So I ripped it lengthways, planed up the separate boards, then glued it back together again:



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I used the PT, and my normal chip extraction system:



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Whilst that was drying I started on the tailboard for the bookshelves that sit on the top:



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That was Saturday.



I de-clamped everything on Sunday morning. I always love that job first thing in the morning. The I chiseled the dovetails:



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After finishing the preparation of the oak board, which had re-joined nicely, I ripped two relief cuts along most of its length. This unit is going to suffer from being over the manifold. It will get hot and dry, and I expect shrinkage. To help mitigate any cupping, relief cuts like this do an excellent job:



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I slapped on the first coat of wiping varnish/ oil mixture, and left it outside to dry:



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Ooooh, I made some doors on Saturday, too. I must have forgotten to take any photos. Anyway, here I am able to set out the hinge locations prior to fitting them into the door edges, because everything is still flat:



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But look at this monumental cock-up! Clearly something had gone wrong with my back-of-an-off-cut measurement, calcs, and cutting list:



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Having chopped out for the hinges I could now glue the unit together:



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Whilst it was still in clamps I offered it up in its location so as to check for clearances, and to scribe to the 300 year old (and decidedly wonky) wall:



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I ripped a strip 6 or 7mm wide and glued it to the leading edge of each of the doors:



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Whilst was waiting for glue to go off, I carried on with the shelves:



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Time for a bike ride, and that was Sunday in the workshop done........



This afternoon I grabbed a couple of hours on this. I started by cleaning up the widened doors, and planing them to fit:



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I made them really tight fitting because I expect substantial shrinkage:



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I cut up some 95 x 19 for skirting boards:



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After running the moulding on the router table, I scribed it to the stone floor, which was surprisingly un-flat:



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I screwed the unit to the wall, and pinned and glued the skirting. I also mitred in the little bead on the door panels:



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The first coat of paint took 3 hours on each half of the dresser. I claim no credit for that:



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Finally, I marked up the top and sides of the bookshelves to avoid the pipes:



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I scribed the RHS vertical to the wall. This is how much the wall is out of vertical:



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Twenty mm over 1050. Oh well, that's what you get with old timber framed houses.



I marked up for the shelf locations (cook-book sized spacings), and made a quick template for a sliding dovetail:



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That's it for now. I shan't get back to this until the weekend.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Malc2098 » 22 Sep 2020, 19:46

Nice.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Andyp » 23 Sep 2020, 06:57

Malc2098 wrote:Nice.


Very

:)
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby TrimTheKing » 23 Sep 2020, 10:20

Very nice mate, and I feel ashamed at the speed you work vs my feeble efforts!
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Phil » 23 Sep 2020, 10:37

TrimTheKing wrote:Very nice mate, and I feel ashamed at the speed you work vs my feeble efforts!


Yes, feel the same.

Mike nice work. :eusa-clap:
You make it look so easy that a person can get all inspirational and tackle a project.
I am not sure where you find the time to do a write up and fotos.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 27 Sep 2020, 19:27

I tried really hard to complete these two pieces of furniture and post about it this weekend. You'll have to read to the end to see whether I made it or not. We left it last weekend with me just starting the bookshelves for the unit over the manifold.....

My first job was to run a rebate down the scribed back edge of the RH vertical. The astute amongst you will notice that the setting of my router table couldn't possibly produce the rebate as shown, but I had half-packed away the table when I remembered to take a photo:

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This is the table folded away (router permanently attached):

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That was the last thing I needed to do to before doing the jointing for the shelves. Now, remember that this shelf unit is over the underfloor heating manifold, and covers the flow and return to the boiler. It is going to get seriously heated up. I am therefore naturally concerned about wood movement, even with dried timber, so I decided to do the shelf supports with a sliding dovetail joint. The first job was to plane up a saw guide at the appropriate angle, following the template I made last weekend:

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Stupidly, I only took a photo of it in situ from the back, but it was child's play to run a tenon saw along the sloped face:

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Note the knots drilled ready for filling.

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Having cut the 4 stopped dovetail housings in the uprights, I marked the shoulder positions on the shelves, taken from the top piece:

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It's a doddle cutting the male compared with the female, and then I simply shaped the front of the shelves:

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Having dry fitted everything together, I offered it up into position to mark up any clashes with the pipes, and to mark any feet adjustment necessary for horizontality (that's a word, isn't it?):

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With everything fitting OK, back in the workshop I planed a rebate in the underside of the top piece to take the backing board:

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Then it was time for a nearly-clamp-free glue up:

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Whilst that was going off, I ran a rebate to the same depth as the ply in a piece of ripped down 45 x 20, cut out some ply, and glued and pinned it in place:

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For the sake of continuity I'll carry on with this, but in fact there was a change of job for a couple of hours whilst the glue went off. I glued and pinned the stepped backing board into place:

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...then glued a piece under the top. In hindsight, I wished I'd put a gentle curve to the under edge of this:

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This is one of the out-of-temporal-order things I did whilst the glue was setting:

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That then got mitred, and glued and pinned in place:

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The blue tape was to repair an unfortunate dog-related handling error, but besides that I was rather pleased that it all sate rather nicely in place. I just had to shave a bit off the back to clear a pipe clamp:

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That all took rather longer than I'd hoped, and with a couple of family activities I found myself tackling the scribing of the base units of the dresser into the evening. That involved gluing some thin strips on to the underside to reduce the amount that would need to be carved away elsewhere:

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That carried on for 2 hours this morning, including the time it took to glue the 2 separate parts of the base unit together into one. There's nothing to show for it, other than a piece of furniture which sits squarely and level.

Work in the workshop started with some old bits of painted matching:

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I needed three drawer fronts out of this knotty piece of timber, and I wanted to minimise the number of knots in this prominent location:

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Two minor bits of filling was all I was left with, and some off-cuts. This is why you always buy more wood than you think you need.

It's awkward doing drawer fronts with planted on beads, because you all-but final adjustment has to happen before you apply the bead. I actually got a micrometer out, which I never do for woodwork:

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My wife has spent about 12 hours applying 3 coats of paint to the dresser with a brush. She finished this afternoon, so when it was dry I lifted everything into place:

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....and then pushed the oak upper shelf into position:

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Unfortunately, my mother chose today to have her 87th birthday, so we lost the afternoon of work to visiting her. Hopefully I'll be done next weekend, on a project which seems to have gone on forever.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Malc2098 » 27 Sep 2020, 20:55

Nice.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby RogerS » 27 Sep 2020, 21:36

Really, really top quality work, Mike. :eusa-clap:
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 27 Sep 2020, 22:14

Thanks Roger. Praise indeed from one whose work I much admire.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby MY63 » 27 Sep 2020, 22:17

I hope my wife never sees this, as it really raises the bar. Excellent work Mike.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 27 Sep 2020, 22:22

Thanks Michael.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby StevieB » 27 Sep 2020, 22:57

Mike G wrote: .......Hopefully I'll be done next weekend, on a project which seems to have gone on forever.


:shock: You first posted the design for this on 2nd September Mike - just over 3 weeks ago..... your definition of forever certainly differs from mine :D Excellent work, and whatever you think definitely speedy!
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Rod » 27 Sep 2020, 23:07

Nice - what are you going to do for handles?

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Andyp » 28 Sep 2020, 07:06

StevieB wrote:
Mike G wrote: .......Hopefully I'll be done next weekend, on a project which seems to have gone on forever.


:shock: You first posted the design for this on 2nd September Mike - just over 3 weeks ago..... your definition of forever certainly differs from mine :D Excellent work, and whatever you think definitely speedy!


My sentiments exactly and Mrs G has done a cracking job with the painting too.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 28 Sep 2020, 07:52

Rod wrote:Nice - what are you going to do for handles?


They're 5" D handles to match the rest of the kitchen. Understated. There'll be pictures next week.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 28 Sep 2020, 07:54

StevieB wrote:
Mike G wrote: .......Hopefully I'll be done next weekend, on a project which seems to have gone on forever.


:shock: You first posted the design for this on 2nd September Mike - just over 3 weeks ago..... your definition of forever certainly differs from mine :D Excellent work, and whatever you think definitely speedy!


Thanks Steve. Because of my dodgy and a change in work circumstances I have done nothing else but this dresser for the best part of a month. That feels like a long time.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby TrimTheKing » 28 Sep 2020, 08:00

Lovely stuff Mike.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Phil » 28 Sep 2020, 13:02

Really good work Mike :eusa-clap: :eusa-clap:

Do you do a "rent-a-painter" and what are her rates?
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby sammy.se » 28 Sep 2020, 17:30

Great work Mike, and as always, thanks for sharing

I had a couple of questions:
A lot of people will use hardwoods (beach, ash, poplar) for face frames and door frames, and I never really considered that using pine/redwood was a feasible option - do you find that pine/redwood is durable enough for cabinets? (obviously yes, since you have chosen to do so, I just mean, are there many drawback to doing so?)

Regarding the relief cuts, what's the 'science' or theory behind those? Is it simply done to provide space for the wood to cup into, reducing the tension in the overall board? is there a rule of thumb such as 'a third deep' or some such?

finally, when making solid wood doors, would a loose tenon approach be acceptable between a rail and stile?

Thanks, and by the way, the painting is very nice indeed!
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby Mike G » 28 Sep 2020, 18:59

Good questions, Sammy.

Decent quality pine (redwood) is prefect for work like this. You have to watch for flaws, and straightness, but that's the same with any timber really. It's certainly durable.......a kitchen I made 30 years ago is still looking grand. I'd bet on the screws fixing the hinges on outlasting anything of MDF. It's particularly ideal for your own projects at home, where you can take a plane to any movement after a few months, a luxury you wouldn't get with a client's kitchen. It's one-off movement, and that's only if you don't bring the wood in and acclimatise it for weeks beforehand as you're supposed to.

Relief cuts can be seen on the underside of some solid wood flooboards, and, I think, some engineered ones too. It really works, and I'm quite happy to go to 2/3rds depth, although I'd more generally go to half depth. I guess the theory is pretty much as you outlined.

Loose tongues work perfectly well, but you just have to be a bit careful what shows on the top of your lower unit doors. One of the beauties of using real wood is that you can see the grain slightly through the paint, and the same with any joints, so you need reasonable joints without gaps.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby RogerS » 28 Sep 2020, 21:55

Mike G wrote:......and the same with any joints, so you need reasonable joints without gaps.


That rules me out then :(

Great WIP, Mike, BTW.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (dresser....nearly finishe

Postby sammy.se » 29 Sep 2020, 09:22

Mike G wrote:Good questions, Sammy.

Decent quality pine (redwood) is prefect for work like this. You have to watch for flaws, and straightness, but that's the same with any timber really. It's certainly durable.......a kitchen I made 30 years ago is still looking grand. I'd bet on the screws fixing the hinges on outlasting anything of MDF. It's particularly ideal for your own projects at home, where you can take a plane to any movement after a few months, a luxury you wouldn't get with a client's kitchen. It's one-off movement, and that's only if you don't bring the wood in and acclimatise it for weeks beforehand as you're supposed to.

Relief cuts can be seen on the underside of some solid wood flooboards, and, I think, some engineered ones too. It really works, and I'm quite happy to go to 2/3rds depth, although I'd more generally go to half depth. I guess the theory is pretty much as you outlined.

Loose tongues work perfectly well, but you just have to be a bit careful what shows on the top of your lower unit doors. One of the beauties of using real wood is that you can see the grain slightly through the paint, and the same with any joints, so you need reasonable joints without gaps.
Thanks Mike!

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