It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 10:37
Guineafowl21 wrote:I have made a shaped template, using toggle clamps. The problem with the bearing guide is that, with such a deep cut, the piece will be snatched away and damaged, as happened on a trial run. Unfortunately no reverse on my SM!
I made a wooden ring fence with quite a large difference in depth of cut between the edges and the central ‘flush point’. This way, I could offer the workpiece up to one side, at a tangent, and take a partial cut, then pivot round towards the centre and take further cuts.
There was still some snatching, which might have been my trying to work too quickly, and the fact that the trial piece was a reject with lots of knotty bits. Even the decent Goodhand toggle clamps let the piece slip, as well.
I’ve bought some foam anti-slip mesh to stick into the template to improve grip. Pics to follow and thanks for the advice.
Trevanion wrote:You’d only bandsaw the one face before you mould it, do all of one face on each leg, and then cut the next one out and mould it, and so on in sequence. A bit more time consuming but will result in a better cut and will be easier on the machine.
Guineafowl21 wrote:.... These light bandsaws are only good for cutting shaped templates in plywood, as far as I can see, and generally I’ve got away with a coping saw for that.
RogerS wrote:Guineafowl21 wrote:.... These light bandsaws are only good for cutting shaped templates in plywood, as far as I can see, and generally I’ve got away with a coping saw for that.
Not necessarily. It depends a lot on the manufacturer, how it's been set up and most importantly the blade. I still use my small Axminster bandsaw that I've had for over ten years. It cuts well.
Guineafowl21 wrote:Out of interest, how would yours do with 60mm thick larch, like these legs were made from? The bandsaw I used screeched and wibbled all over the place.
I also tried ripping some 4” thick beech, but it was hopeless.
Trevanion wrote:Guineafowl21 wrote:Out of interest, how would yours do with 60mm thick larch, like these legs were made from? The bandsaw I used screeched and wibbled all over the place.
I also tried ripping some 4” thick beech, but it was hopeless.
A new, decent quality, and most importantly sharp blade makes a world of difference with a bandsaw, even with the little dinky units.
Trevanion wrote:Guineafowl21 wrote:Out of interest, how would yours do with 60mm thick larch, like these legs were made from? The bandsaw I used screeched and wibbled all over the place.
I also tried ripping some 4” thick beech, but it was hopeless.
A new, decent quality, and most importantly sharp blade makes a world of difference with a bandsaw, even with the little dinky units.
Guineafowl21 wrote:Trevanion wrote:Guineafowl21 wrote:Out of interest, how would yours do with 60mm thick larch, like these legs were made from? The bandsaw I used screeched and wibbled all over the place.
I also tried ripping some 4” thick beech, but it was hopeless.
A new, decent quality, and most importantly sharp blade makes a world of difference with a bandsaw, even with the little dinky units.
This was a new-ish blade, but certainly cheap.
I take both of your points, and will give bandsaws a second chance. The few times I’ve used one had completely put me off them. In the end, almost all the shaping of those table legs was done with spokeshaves. The bandsaw left such an awful job that I reckon an adze would have done better.
Guineafowl21 wrote:
I’ve no plans to get a bandsaw at the moment, but if I do, it’ll be a Startrite or similar heavy machine. These light bandsaws are only good for cutting shaped templates in plywood, as far as I can see, and generally I’ve got away with a coping saw for that.
Trevanion wrote:You’d only bandsaw the one face before you mould it, do all of one face on each leg, and then cut the next one out and mould it, and so on in sequence. A bit more time consuming but will result in a better cut and will be easier on the machine.
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