It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 11:33
Mike G wrote:Hi and welcome.
That looks a lovely little workshop. I'm sure you'll really enjoy the space. It's a pity you have lined the outside of the frame with OSB, as that is effectively a vapour barrier on the wrong side of the insulation, but it's too late to do anything about that now, I guess.
As to your question..... Personally I wouldn't (and didn't) bother. If you seal up the door you will likely need to install some ventilation elsewhere. I have gaps around my uninsulated doors, and whilst it means I need a little more heating when using my workshop, it does mean that I don't get any condensation (and thus rusting) issues.
Lining the opening is an issue only if it would otherwise leave some insulation exposed. I suspect it won't do that, so hinge your doors directly to the studs, and just plant a stop. I would find such a narrow door an endless frustration, but I guess you won't be building big pieces of furniture in your workshop.
Malc2098 wrote:Hi and welcome.
I've recently made a permanent pair of doors form my 'shop, ledge, brace and batten from local larch. Hitherto, they were 18mm OSB with 50x25 reinforcement around edges and hinge braces. Given the all the other insulation I installed in the build, I didn't insulate the doors ( and I can see daylight in some of the gaps! ) and the shop hasn't fallen below 5 degrees inside since I completed it. It warms nicely from an oil filler radiator/convector.
I'm not going to insulate the new doors now a) because I like the look of them, and b) the exposed wood is good to hang stuff on.
My new doors will hang my steps, my apron, the spare hose for the small dust extractor, the stand for my phone (high enough to pick up the wifi signal from the house and maybe other and sods.
The other pair of long term temporary OSB doors which are only for machine access, have numerous clamps attached to the framework and the workshop broom!
Glitch wrote:Thanks Malcolm,
You and Mike have put my (overthinking) mind at rest.
I've skimmed through your shed build thread and think it's fantastic, including those doors. They deserve to be seen in all their glory. Attention to detail is amazing and sets me a very high standard to aim for.
Glitch wrote:.......Re: the external sheathing. I know I've gone OTT in places. So many layers!
I've copied others I've seen (sadly, not yours).
Basic principle was getting the outside weatherproofed with OSB and breathable......
Mike G wrote:Gary, you are right that OSB isn't totally vapour impermeable. However, for the sake of a simple message for people who just want to build a shed or workshop, describing it as a vapour barrier is good enough*. The important principle/ rule of thumb is that the inside of a wall build up should be approximately 5 times as vapour resistant as the outside, so that anything which does get in has a route out to where it needs to go: the void behind the rainscreen. The implication of that is that it doesn't matter if the internal layer isn't a perfect vapour barrier, in that its job is to reduce the amount of moisture getting into the wall from the heated internal air to such a level as can be allowed out by the outer face.
*You'd be amazed how often advice I give online is taken by the well-meaning and used out-of-context in giving advice to others. This means I have to keep messages simple and clear, or I have to wrap up every single thing I say in endless caveats. UKW was 2 or 3 posters who fully understand the principles and can be relied on to give decent advice in most circumstances. It has many more who get hold of the wrong end of the stick more often than not. One of the reasons I regret that I am no longer in a position to post over there is that I know there will be people receiving poor advice when asking a building question.
sunnybob wrote:You havent reacted to MIkes comment on ventilation.
If you dont have ventilation in the shed, and you want to work in there, you should get a scuba mask and bottle.
Completely airtight is as undesirable as condensation.
bluebirdnick wrote:I have nothing helpful to say in response to your questions, but the building looks fantastic and the work looks really neat. Please do share more photos as it progresses, in particular of the cladding.
Lining the opening is an issue only if it would otherwise leave some insulation exposed. I suspect it won't do that, so hinge your doors directly to the studs, and just plant a stop. I would find such a narrow door an endless frustration, but I guess you won't be building big pieces of furniture in your workshop.
Mike G wrote:Your choice, Gary.
Is it too late to widen the opening?
Glitch wrote:I should have made the door wider and accommodated a decent liner. As I mentioned earlier I live in a terraced house and all materials/furniture has to come through an internal door that is the same size as the shed door. Plus it's a very small space anyway so nothing major is going to be made.
Mike G wrote:Gary, in the UK there is no such element of a timber frame as a "header". It's a lintel.
You are probably going to end up with parliament hinges and a bumped up door edge on which to fix it.
Woodbloke wrote:Glitch wrote:
You seem to be worried about the width of your 'shop door; I wouldn't be
My shop 'door measures 790mm and all the workshop gear has gone through it (huge industrial bandsaw, cast iron table saw, very heavy work bench, router table, Jet 260 pt etc and massive chunks of wood which you can just see in the rh corner. In addition, everything I've ever made in there in the last 17 years or so has come out through it; several large display cabinets, a huge Korean style chest of drawers, a media unit for the TV etc. A single door width is amply wide enough in my view for most domestic projects and I seem to recollect that when we ditched our old enormous leather DFS sofa thingie 18 months ago for something a little more 'chic' that too disappeared out into the road via an internal door in the lounge and thence the front door - Rob
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