It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 20:17
AJB Temple wrote:If the wall stricture is strong enough for the vertical load, you could consider cement boards or even the impermeable Portland cement boards. These will last far longer and could be rendered if permanence was desired.
AJB Temple wrote:Cement board can be installed on stud. All of it is water resistant but some is intended to be capable of being submerged (the Portland type). I am not necessarily recommending it for your application but I have often seen developers use it as a final surface prior to rendering. There are plenty of bulk suppliers - just google it. It is more expensive than OSB obviously, and I would only use it of you want a long lasting product (ie pretty much permanent).
You can also buy it as formed cladding obviously. Final finish in that case, fully weather proof, no painting etc. But I am suggesting large sheets.
It's quite heavy to handle - two people per sheet. Best to pre-drill when fitting.
Chaz wrote:I wonder if any of this stuff that might be used later in the build, could be used as a 'wall' as an interim? It has no roof bearing requirement, as the existing structure is still in place.
https://www.cutpriceinsulation.co.uk/pr ... 8VEALw_wcB
If not this, are there any other 'insulation products like this or Celotex that might be waterproof and could be used as an interim 'wall'?
9fingers wrote:Chaz wrote:I wonder if any of this stuff that might be used later in the build, could be used as a 'wall' as an interim? It has no roof bearing requirement, as the existing structure is still in place.
https://www.cutpriceinsulation.co.uk/pr ... 8VEALw_wcB
If not this, are there any other 'insulation products like this or Celotex that might be waterproof and could be used as an interim 'wall'?
It's got little or no strength so wont give any security if that is a requirement. Not much wind resistance either. But yes it could be useful later if it will give enough insulation to meet building regs.
Bob
AJB Temple wrote:Very bad idea to use insulation board as an outside wall temporarily. The wind and weather will rip the foil off and building movement in winter storms will break it up. You will waste a lot of time fixing it securely.
You've got an architect on the case now. Why not ask him or her what you can use as a temporary external panel that can be re-used readily later in the build.
AJB Temple wrote:Grade C will be patched both sides and have internal voids. if you get it damp it will eventually delaminate. Top layers likely to be exceedingly thin.
Chaz wrote:Suppose its chicken / egg. I cant cost it till I get a drawing and Im reluctant to pay for drawings and structural calcs (which Ive been told could be £000s) just to get a price to build.
I know this is a wood working forum - so perhaps a bit unfair but for a workshop where condensation must be kept to a minimum (Ive got a lot of machines that will corrode), is there a 'best' option?
AJB Temple wrote:Your catch 22 is not real. It is caused by you not wishing to invest a small amount in educating yourself enough to get started. None of it is hard but no one here can tell you what to do unless we can see your rough plans and have some idea of your level of ability.
Steel framed farm building are dirt cheap for the size. I've bought them in the past (for a farm). But you will spend an arm and leg on insulating them, even with prefab insulation systems. Super quick though.
Therefore, I think Bob has it there. If I were looking to save money, do a fast build and avoid condensation and keep external noise down I would be building block walls, cladding or rendering, adding vapour shield and insulating with at least some PIR inside then ply or whatever is acceptable to you finish wise. Block goes up fast and is easy DIY. This is how I built my quite large utility room / larder last year. Took under a week to have walls up and weathertight (6m by 3m so not large but cheap and quick). If you do it properly designed you can then span it with steel or maybe laminated timber and softwood to do your roof. Use the roof space for storage (by which I mean do not buy el cheapo fink trusses unless your pitch is very low).
If I were in your shoes I would by now be very familiar with the building regs, have bought one of the trade structural and method handbooks, and probably bought a framing book such as the one by Steve Chappell which teaches you how to do all of the structural calculations in timber and has easy to follow rules of thumb.
In a big workshop like this you presumably plan to use it a lot. It will need heating and in winter you will value money spent on insulation now (though good luck with getting it!).
Look out for a second hand BIG log burner as well.
9fingers wrote:Its about 10 blocks per sq m so you can work out how many blocks and get a cost from that.
You will need piers every 2.5 metres or so for stability.
Bob
Chaz wrote:9fingers wrote:Its about 10 blocks per sq m so you can work out how many blocks and get a cost from that.
You will need piers every 2.5 metres or so for stability.
Bob
Thanks. So its 10 blocks per sq meter. I have circa 120 m^2 of wall (not floor, ironically very close) area, so its the cost of blocks x 10 x 120, and double that if a dual skinned wall? Correct?
Thanks
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