Now for a critical bit.
Fit your bestest(!) sharpest blade. Although technically you will be ripping. a 40 tooth plus crosscut blade should give you best results.
Setting the tablesaw blade to the correct angle. I use my trusty digital angle box.
Zero it on the table and then use its magnetic base to stick to the saw blade making double sure it is all on the saw body and not catching on the teeth.
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As you can see the gauge is reading 78.8 at the moment but picking a setting where it is flicking between 78.8 and 78.7 will be the closest you can get to 11.25 degrees off vertical.
With the fence set to face away from the blade tilt and the height only just enough to cut through. Cut N/2 scrap strips of parallel MDF/Ply about 50mm wide, 100 long between the fence and blade, flipping each one end for end, same face up to get a chamfer on each long edge.
Sweep away any dust from these and with widest face up and edges abutting, join these with masking tape stretching the crepe nice a tight as you go. A roller can be useful to press the tape into place. Sorry I forgot to take a photo of this but it is similar to this showing some of the taping. do every joint with tape.
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Now take the taped staves and roll into a part circle until all the joints are closed.
As you have N/2 staves, if the angles are correct you will have a semi circular (ish) half polygon that should sit nicely on a flat surface.
like this
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If the arc is less than a semi circle, then the chamfer is too little. If when it sits on flat surface any of the joints open up then the chamfer is too much.
As mentioned earlier in the thread this need to be accurate as gaps in the stave will look awful and if the chamfer is too small, your bin wont pull into a circle.
If needed, take it apart, adjust the blade by a gnats tadger, move the fence towards the blade by a mm or so and recut all the chamfers and retest until you get a perfect result.
By now your varnish etc should be dry on the mdf trial staves and you can get going with the jigs.
Put the first stave on jig number 1 so called because you use it first - ok!
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Make a mark on the bottom left corner of the stave for later (this will eventually be cut off)
move the fence way to the left an take the jig past the (stationary!! blade) with the stave pressed against the long guide of the jig and into the gap between the two guides - dont worry that it only contacts the short guide at one point.
Align the jig so that the blade tooth will just clear the end of the stave nearest you. Bring the fence in to touch the left hand edge of the jig. - easier to do that describe!
The idea is that when you make the cut, the absolute minimum is cut from the right hand corner of the stave nearest you.
Bring the jig and stave back to the starting position for a cut and make a trial cut. You are quite likely to cut into the jig for the first cut. That is just fine.
Examine the cut surface closely, there should be no visible flat from the original cut edge and there should be a nice sharp corner all the way along the chamfered edge.
If you need, move the fence a hairs breadth to the right and take another dust cut until the chamfer is perfect.
Set aside jig 1 and set the half cut stave rotated 180 (ish) degrees onto jig two so that your mark is now top right and still facing upwards.
like this
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Adjust the fence position until the upper face of the top end of the stave will be cut to your desired dimension T.
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Maybe set it over to just greater than T for your first cut on jig two, and take a second dust cut as before. Again you may well cut into your jig but this is not a problem.
The cut edge should again be sharp all the way along. If you find it is not, then you might have to reduce your target dimension T by a gnats. It is more important to get that sharp edge as without it, your joints will gap.
You should now have one stave looking like the drawing.
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Mark that stave as a reference 2. Note that if you fit that onto jig 1, you will have lost the reference edge in the second cutting process so use Jig 1 to cut another reference stave and mark that as reference 1
Now you are all set to run N off on jig one is a series - remembering to add your mark! and then reset to jig 2 using reference 2 to set the fence and run all the second edges through.
You now have two reference pieces and N identical staves.
Next time: One more angle to work out and I have to draw some more diagrams so there will be a break in the posts for a while.
Bob