Bandsaw Buddy

[Woodster]

I need a few bits from Axminster and was wondering if any of you folks find the Buddy useful? Ive managed fine without one so far but you can never have too many toys? :lol:

 

[Doug]

Saw it a few years ago at a show, seemed to be a solution looking for a problem.
I couldn’t see it would help me so left it where it was.

 

[Woodster]

Actually Doug, I was just thinking I could try the concept first by stick a couple of magnets on a rule! :lol:

 

[Lurker]

I can't even work out what it's supposed to do :eusa-think:

 

[Woodbloke]

I need a few bits from Axminster and was wondering if any of you folks find the Buddy useful? Ive managed fine without one so far but you can never have too many toys? :lol:

I’ve got one and they do actually work very well. There’s a little ‘cut out’ where the teeth go so they’re not in contact with the ‘buddy’. Stick it onto your blade, bring up the fence til it’s a mm away and then adjust until its dead parallel with the ‘buddy’. All things being equal, your blade will then cut dead true with none of the dreaded ‘drift’ - Rob

 

[Doug]

I need a few bits from Axminster and was wondering if any of you folks find the Buddy useful? Ive managed fine without one so far but you can never have too many toys? :lol:

I’ve got one and they do actually work very well. There’s a little ‘cut out’ where the teeth go so they’re not in contact with the ‘buddy’. Stick it onto your blade, bring up the fence til it’s a mm away and then adjust until its dead parallel with the ‘buddy’. All things being equal, your blade will then cut dead true with none of the dreaded ‘drift’ - Rob

Or set your bandsaw up properly & you won’t have any drift in the first place. :eusa-think:

 

[sunnybob]

Gimmick. drift is purely an operator error.

 

[TrimTheKing]

drift is purely an operator error.

No it isn’t!

The opinions put forward as statements of fact on here are not helpful (not just by you Bob).

If you class incorrect/imperfect setup as ‘operator error’ then I’ll give you that one, but can we start putting a little more detail in these throwaway statements please.

One of the things that differentiates this forum from others is that we try and keep the helpful nature that encourages newcomers to woodworking and doesn’t scare them away because they don’t already know everything. Let’s try and keep it that way please.

 

[Woodbloke]

Or set your bandsaw up properly & you won’t have any drift in the first place. :eusa-think:

If you read what I writ Doug, I did say “all things being equal”, by that I mean that if your bandsaw is set up perfick (as are mine) but the fence isn’t parallel to the blade, then you will encounter ‘drift’ and no matter how hard you try and correct it in use, the cut won’t be true.
It’s particularly crucial to set up the fence properly when a new blade is installed as they’re all slightly different. I even check mine if I’ve got a particularly important cut to make but not if I need to feed a wonky Krenov bookshelf through the machine :lol: - Rob

 

[sunnybob]

No offence intended.
I started woodworking 7 years ago after a lifetime working with metal. The very first machine I bought was a bandsaw. I learnt the hard way how to make it work because I wasnt on any forums and didnt know anybody else who had one (it didnt help that I bought a cheap and nasty one because I didnt know any better) :eusa-doh:
I now know of two people who have a woodworking bandsaw on the island, but have never seen either of them.
Through several years of trial and error, I have become reasonably proficient with it.
In my personal experience "Drift" is a result of too high a feed rate.

I can cut a very nice line with a very blunt blade, it just takes forever. :eusa-hand:
I can make a brand new sharp blade drift all over the place just by feeding the wood too fast.
Every piece of wood cuts at a different rate so there is no hard and fast measurement for feed rate. I always start a cut very slowly and watch the blade as it cuts the wood. If it starts to drift, I slow the rate and the blade comes back to dead straight.
If that helps someone, I am happy to have given my time.

 

[Woodbloke]

In my personal experience "Drift" is a result of too high a feed rate.

I can cut a very nice line with a very blunt blade, it just takes forever. :eusa-hand:
I can make a brand new sharp blade drift all over the place just by feeding the wood too fast.
Every piece of wood cuts at a different rate so there is no hard and fast measurement for feed rate. I always start a cut very slowly and watch the blade as it cuts the wood. If it starts to drift, I slow the rate and the blade comes back to dead straight.

You’re absolutely right; feet rate is crucial and you can cut a decent line with a blunt blade and horrendous things can start to happen if you get a little over enthusiastic when you’re shoving stuff through but having the fence dead parallel to the blade ensures that the cut doesn’t drift, blunt blade or new.

If say, I’m cutting a 3mm thick, 200mm wide veneer of English Walnut from a 2m board (and I have a few of those) I need to be sure that the cut starts at 3mm and finishes at 3mm, not 1 or 4mm so I use a new or newish blade, max tension, tall fence (I have three inc the bs one) which has been set up with the ‘Bandsaw Buddy’ and a nice, slow feed rate. The stuff is too bloody expensive to make mistakes, so I make sure I take all necessary precautions to ensure the set up is spot on…and that includes the fence - Rob

 

[Mike G]

.........
If say, I’m cutting a 3mm thick, 200mm wide veneer of English Walnut from a 2m board (and I have a few of those) I need to be sure that the cut starts at 3mm and finishes at 3mm, not 1 or 4mm so I use a new or newish blade, max tension, tall fence (I have three inc the bs one) which has been set up with the ‘Bandsaw Buddy’ and a nice, slow feed rate. The stuff is too bloody expensive to make mistakes, so I make sure I take all necessary precautions to ensure the set up is spot on…and that includes the fence - Rob

I've never cut veneers, so this is genuine question out of ignorance. When you re-saw, generally one uses a re-sawing fence, which is a rounded-over edge only at the location of the blade. Usually a bit more sophisticated than my home made version:

What's the difference in cutting veneers? I mean, it's just the same as re-sawing, but off the centre line.

 

[Doug]

Or set your bandsaw up properly & you won’t have any drift in the first place. :eusa-think:

If you read what I writ Doug, I did say “all things being equal”, by that I mean that if your bandsaw is set up perfick (as are mine) but the fence isn’t parallel to the blade, then you will encounter ‘drift’ and no matter how hard you try and correct it in use, the cut won’t be true.
It’s particularly crucial to set up the fence properly when a new blade is installed as they’re all slightly different. I even check mine if I’ve got a particularly important cut to make but not if I need to feed a wonky Krenov bookshelf through the machine :lol: - Rob

Or in other words as I said set your bandsaw up properly cuz for me that includes the fence

 

[Lurker]

I still don’t see how a bit of metal slotted into a 12mm flexible blade can help set up the fence to a mm accuracy 250mm away(front of the table). Ie a movable reference point
Obviously I am doing it wrong but I ensure that the fence is parallel to the table slot (solid reference point).
And the blade is also parallel to the slot, easily checked with a steel ruler or other straight edge.

 

[Blackswanwood]

What's the difference in cutting veneers? I mean, it's just the same as re-sawing, but off the centre line.

Mike, I may be corrected by more learned members but I think the key difference is simply that cutting a veneer involves much less room for error.

Presumably with the jig in your picture you are compensating by eye and hand during the cut for any drift? With a well aligned fence the possibility of a hand wobble is massively reduced.

Edit - Mike is the edge on your jig just rounded on one side?

 

[Blackswanwood]

I still don’t see how a bit of metal slotted into a 12mm flexible blade can help set up the fence to a mm accuracy 250mm away(front of the table). Ie a movable reference point
Obviously I am doing it wrong but I ensure that the fence is parallel to the table slot (solid reference point).
And the blade is also parallel to the slot, easily checked with a steel ruler or other straight edge.

I’ve seen this gadget debated elsewhere and it does seem to divide opinion.

It seems you are achieving the desired results without one. I have one and think I stuck a review on the Axi website when I got it saying it isn’t essential but for the inept like me it makes changing blades and keeping the fence accurate easy.

 

[Lurker]

I could say more, but I don’t want to develop a big Enders/ little Enders type issues on the forum.




Changing the subject, has anyone got thoughts about sharpening techniques? :eusa-shifty:

 

[Woodbloke]

I still don’t see how a bit of metal slotted into a 12mm flexible blade can help set up the fence to a mm accuracy 250mm away(front of the table). Ie a movable reference point
Obviously I am doing it wrong but I ensure that the fence is parallel to the table slot (solid reference point).
And the blade is also parallel to the slot, easily checked with a steel ruler or other straight edge.

No, no and thrice no! Ignore the slot(s) as they make no difference to the set up of the fence. Stick the ‘Bandsaw Buddy’ to the blade;



…so that the teeth are over the little slot.

Then adjust the fence until it’s parallel with the ‘buddy’ and disregard everything else; slots, alignment of the table etc:



On my big bs the fence can be swivelled by slackening off the four Allen bolts. It’s really easy and a very, very quick process to get the fence spot on - Rob

 

[sunnybob]

Rob, quick hijack..... The UJK clamps with the angled rods.... i bought 2 about 4 years ago, and have never yet managed to find a use for them. What do you use them for?

 

[Lurker]

My slot runs 90degrees to yours had not realised any bandsaws were different

 

[Mike G]

.... I don’t want to develop a big Enders/ little Enders type issues on the forum.......

Nice little Swift quote. I'm not sure most people realise that much of Gullivers Travels etc was political satire.

 

[9fingers]

My slot runs 90degrees to yours had not realised any bandsaws were different

Who needs a slot? On my Startrite the front half of the table lifts off allowing full access to the blade. Seems to be a sensible design compared to slots and screws to try and reinforce the weakness caused by cutting the slot in the first place.

Bob

 

[Woodbloke]

Rob, quick hijack..... The UJK clamps with the angled rods.... i bought 2 about 4 years ago, and have never yet managed to find a use for them. What do you use them for?

That chunk of wood in the pic is my small bs fence. I use those orange clamps to fix it to the the ali fence - Rob

 

[sunnybob]

Ah, so the rods go into the end holes on the wood and clamp to the big fence.
I'll bear that in mind next time I have a problem looking for a solution.

 

[Doug]

My slot runs 90degrees to yours had not realised any bandsaws were different

My first Record bandsaw had a slot that ran front to back Jim, I then bought an Axminster bandsaw like Rob’s & because of the fence assembly the slot has to go side to side, it does make changing blades a little more awkward & it’s very easy to catch yourself on the pin that sticks out of the slot that keeps the table either side of the slot level as the pin sticks out the front.

I recently bought a Hammer bandsaw with slot front to back & I do much prefer it as I do the fence assembly, I upgraded my Axminster fence but was never really impressed with it.

 

[Woodbloke]

Ah, so the rods go into the end holes on the wood and clamp to the big fence.
I'll bear that in mind next time I have a problem looking for a solution.

Correct Also useful to make a one-on-one fence for the router table, the sort of thing where you clamp a bit of mdf in front of the cutter and then move the fence back and it then breaks through the front; very handy arrangement for milling small items. I cut the small tenon on my Krenov bookcase drawer pull in this way - Rob

 

[Woodster]

Apologies for starting another Bandsaw Bunfight, what was I thinking?! :lol:

I’ve actually spent a couple of quid on some magnets instead which I’ll fix to one of my rules to try.

 

[sunnybob]

Ah, so the rods go into the end holes on the wood and clamp to the big fence.
I'll bear that in mind next time I have a problem looking for a solution.

Correct Also useful to make a one-on-one fence for the router table, the sort of thing where you clamp a bit of mdf in front of the cutter and then move the fence back and it then breaks through the front; very handy arrangement for milling small items. I cut the small tenon on my Krenov bookcase drawer pull in this way - Rob

I have the UJK pro router fence (which I like a lot), so I have T track on it and use the standard UJK clamps to hold sacrificial fences.
I will make it a mission to find a use for those clamps. :lol:

 

[spb]

The advantage of Rob's clamps for fences is that they don't stick out in front of the fence, so you can run tall pieces against it.

 

[Malc2098]

I agree with Rob.

I used the buddy with my old Sip and more recently with my new Laguna. I'm currently using 19mm blade and I imagine, dependent or where it may sit on the tyres, the angle may change each time you change a blade.

I find the buddy helps me realign the fence in line with the blade.

 

[Lurker]

Ah, so the rods go into the end holes on the wood and clamp to the big fence.
I'll bear that in mind next time I have a problem looking for a solution.

Correct Also useful to make a one-on-one fence for the router table, the sort of thing where you clamp a bit of mdf in front of the cutter and then move the fence back and it then breaks through the front; very handy arrangement for milling small items. I cut the small tenon on my Krenov bookcase drawer pull in this way - Rob

Now that is interesting, could you construct a thread about your method and potential uses.

 

[Tiresias]

.... I don’t want to develop a big Enders/ little Enders type issues on the forum.......

Nice little Swift quote. I'm not sure most people realise that much of Gullivers Travels etc was political satire.

Oh go on. You'll be telling us next that 'A Modest Proposal...' isn't to be taken at face value.

 

[Lurker]

I have a number of grand nieces and nephews.
I told them I like small children, but couldn't eat one all at once.
Very interesting watching them slowly getting the joke.

 

[AJB Temple]

Can I just confirm I understand this please?

This tool fits against the blade magnetically, poking out front and back by some distance, and the idea is you adjust your fence to be dead parallel with it? I can see the logic of fence set up but wonder how easy this is with a narrow blade? Sound like a good idea and perhaps easily replicated with a steel rule.

For re-sawing thin stuff (veneers and strips) my saw has a solid lump of metal with a circular cross section (except for a flat bit that clamps to the normal fence) and I steer against this manually. This is better than the fence for getting a good cut, but I am usually using a 3/4" blade which also helps. I presume this is what your piece of wood is doing Mike?

 

[9fingers]

You can do it with any straight edge but there needs to be a small relief in it to avoid distortion due to the tooth set.

Bob

 

[AJB Temple]

OK. Relief easily achieved with a piece of light tack (spelling?) packing.

I am going to try this just to see if my fence is square to the blade.

 

[Blackswanwood]

Can I just confirm I understand this please?

This tool fits against the blade magnetically, poking out front and back by some distance, and the idea is you adjust your fence to be dead parallel with it? I can see the logic of fence set up but wonder how easy this is with a narrow blade? Sound like a good idea and perhaps easily replicated with a steel rule.

For re-sawing thin stuff (veneers and strips) my saw has a solid lump of metal with a circular cross section (except for a flat bit that clamps to the normal fence) and I steer against this manually. This is better than the fence for getting a good cut, but I am usually using a 3/4" blade which also helps. I presume this is what your piece of wood is doing Mike?

That’s it exactly Adrian. If you skip to 29 mins in this it shows how easy it is to use.

https://youtu.be/ugc85kJmos8

The same result can be achieved with a steel ruler but imho this gadget makes it easier as once on the blade it hangs there until the job is done. I’d liken it to my wife using the reversing camera and lines on the screen but I prefer to do it just by looking over my shoulder - there is nothing wrong with either option!