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Drive belt for thicknesser rollers...

Robert

Robert

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Any suggestions where to get a replacement belt from? Its the one that drives the feed rollers off of the cutter block shaft.

The serrated roller and the rubber one further back
Belt1.jpg


are driven by

The belt that lives under a plastic cover
Belt2.jpg


Mine feels quite soft so I guess it has stretched. The rollers stall easily when thicknessing.

Last time I ordered an Electro Beckum spare part it took over 6 weeks so I'd rather just order similar somewhere. not measured it yet. Section looks about 16mm x 2mm. Can't guess length but somewhere between 600 and 800mm maybe.
 
I often use either poly Vee or timing belts running on their backs as a replacement of the harder to find plain flat belts.
Buying any belt or bearing as a manufacturers spare is going to be expensive but there are lots of far more reasonable sources.

You need to get an accurate length for the belt. Wind some string around the two pulleys and overlap the ends, pull tight to take up any adjustment then cut through the overlap section with scissors.

Measure the length for the cut piece.

If you can't find a belt to suit, pm me the dimensions and I'll try and find a source

HTH

Bob
 
Having done a bit of homework on this belt, it would seem that it is an elastic belt - rather unusual as most drivebelts have a fabric core and do not stretch.

My earlier advice may therefore be incorrect and you will need to go with the genuine part or modify the machine to add a sprung tensioner for use with a common belt.

As a first experimental attempt, I would wind a few layers of duct tape around the large pulley to tighten the belt. Wind on in the opposite direction to normal rotation so the outer end of the tape is pressed down by the rotation rather than risk it being lifted.

Bob
 
I've always waxed the table... and it used to fix it but doesn't now.

The belt is definitely elastic with no fabric core.

I'd already looked at that drive belt site but they don't give much info about the belts they sell. can't tell if they are elastic or fabric cored.

Annoyingly it looks like I may have to spend £26 on a rubber band.

One last thought - is there some kind of grip enhancing spray that might give this slack rubber band more friction to grip the smooth steel shaft of the cutter block?
 
Claim your £100 from Mark and buy the belt ending up £74 better off?

In the old days there was stuff known as Belt Jam used to make wide flat belt drives grip better. Not seen it for years

Rocol make a modern day belt dressing but at £17 or so, is an expensive solution. If you don't like my previous ideas then dipping in your pocket is possibly the only remaining answer.

NB the official belt from Metabo is now only sold as part of a kit with a new pulley and pivot pin thrown in. Heaven knows what the price of that will be!

Bob
 
Well I've just wrapped 5 layers of 1" masking tape onto the large plastic pulley and its increased the tension and grip enough to stop the rollers from stalling so I'm back in business :)

powertoolspares.com list the belt for £16 plus £5 delivery (and maybe plus vat) <edit no its not - wrong model number> so similar to the ebay price. The last spare I bought from them took so long to arrive I'd forgotten about it so ebay seems a better bet. Not so urgent now but i will order.

thanks for the suggestions.
 
I've messaged the ebay seller as I'm not sure it is the right thing :(

It might be the main drive belt from motor to cutter block.

The pulley and belt kit is £33.90 delivered from powertoolspares. think I'm out of other options if the ebay belt is wrong. grr.
 
Just seen this thread, I have the yellow perform version of this machine. I have recently replaced the belt, with a multi v belt, that looks too slack to work, but it does. I will look back at the order and tell you what length I bought.
 
Thanks Dave.

Its working normally with the tape on for now.

We often made up O rings at work by cutting round nitrile rubber cord and supergluing the ends. With that in mind I've bought some nitrile rubber flat strip off ebay and just to see if it works I'll try super glueing it into a belt. Only a few quid so no great loss if it falls apart :)
 
Here is a picture of the belt on the machine.
eaa4ab8ff20fa05d893586d4c116f2a8.jpg

as you can see the belt is not under tension and I thought it would slip, but it drives the rollers pulling the wood though the blades with no sign of any slip. [emoji3]
 
Amazing :)

So that is plan B sorted then. Plan A - the strip of rubber from ebay has arrived. Just need to get round to gluing it into a band and see if it works.

Thanks for the picture.
 
To decode these belt sizes

260 is the length in 1/10 inches and J defines the size of the V profile J works out to be very close to 0.09" (1/11 ")

Sometimes there is a number on the end which give the number of grooves eg 220 J6. if you can't get the width you want then buying a wider one and cutting with a sharp knife will get the width you want/

The other numbers in Dave's picture is the length in millimetres again J is the profile and I'm not sure what the P stands for.

The dual numbering in tenths of inches and integral mm is quite common on other types of belt and not easy to get wrong as the ratio is always 2.54:1

hth

Bob
 
Interesting a belt nearly an inch wide works Ok. The rubber strip I bought is 1" wide so I'll try it as it is and cut the width down only if necessary.... assuming it works of course.
 
I think your rubber should work OK. I was about to oder some bearings when I found the belt was slipping and just added the nearest one I could find to the order. I must admit that when I first fitted it I did not think it would grip very well and was tinking of trying to rig a jockey wheel to tension it. It was a nice surprise that it worked OK when I tried it. I too have used O rings as replacement drive belts in cassette and CD drives they do work really well.
 
So here's my rubber strip
belt3.jpg


Length measured to the old one less a bit and overlapped then cut
belt4.jpg


And ready for superglue
belt5.jpg


And that was where it all went wrong :)

The glue did not hold. It was a bottle of mitre adhesive and getting a bit old but still liquid. It did not bond strongly. I've superglued rubber before and its been as strong or stronger than the rubber itself.

So one more go with new superglue before I buy a belt.

To be continued.
 
Robert:

A butt joint? D*mn that's brave. I wouldn't have thought that would work, but since you've done it before I stand corrected.

Kirk
 
Kirk,
Some of the small round d belt stock comes with instructions that say use a butt joint, the glue is stronger than the belt, on things with small diameter pulleys the butt goes round the tight curve more smoothly than a much longer scarf joint.
 
The new bottle of superglue seems to have worked :)

belt6.jpg


When I joined the ends this time I didn't get to slide them in line as it bonded instantly. The alignment isn't perfect but good enough and strong.

I pulled it to try and break it and I even folded the belt by the joint just as you could any unjoined part of the belt and it survived.

It's only had 30 minutes running on the machine so far but it is still there.
 
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