Garage conversion

[TrimTheKing]

A bit like my Veritas collection! [emoji57]

Rod

I've got one you don't have on 'your collection' there Rod. :eusa-whistle:

 

[RogerS]

Was it this one I saw in your partly-constructed workshop, Mark ?

:lol:

 

[Malc2098]

Right, that's it!

If you're not going to play nicely, I'm going home!

Malc, you could always counter with your magnificent display of 13amp outlets? :lol:

Bob

:lol: I'm back in the game!!!

Yesterday, they were brilliant when I was moving so much stuff around, was able to put the chargers, radio, extractor etc wherever I was working. Soooooo convenient!

 

[TrimTheKing]

Was it this one I saw in your partly-constructed workshop, Mark ?

:lol:

:lol: :eusa-clap:

 

[RogerS]

Got the mitre saw and bench all set up...excuse the junk in the photos...I seem to be spending all my time moving stuff from A to B and back to A again.



It's dropped into its own well to bring it to the right height for the two benches on either side. In my last workshop I had the main support on the left..

..an early photo



It had a straight edge running down it with a ruler on top and one of these from Axminster..



A good idea but never worked that well as it all depended on the width of the kerf in the saw blade and if that changed ....

So I usually ended up just using the stop to get consistent lengths between pieces. But that often relied on having the support bench to the right clear of stuff. And so anyone who knows me knows that given a horizontal surface I will fill it. So that idea didn't work as well as it should have.

Anyway, I've lost track of the Axminster gizmo...it's in a box somewhere..so we'll just have to suck it and see.

Of more interest to me was the dust extraction. The mitre saw does create an awful lot of dust..much more than some other machines. In my old workshop I had it plumbed in to my main extractor but as I always had to plug in the pipe, switch gates etc I never did it. So the sawdust just built up. So this time I wanted a dedicated extractor for the mitre saw. Or semi-dedicated as I had the Nilfisk in mind to double up as the shop vac. It's got the power take-off which was essential in my book. Trouble was that, nice thought it is, the hose is very stiff and the outlet on the Festool Kapex is proprietary.

I faffed around for ages but eventually came to the conclusion that the hose was too stiff as it kept pulling out any adapter that I came up with. I also came to the decision to have a dedicated vac for the saw. I saw this cheapie reduced Einhell and so went for it.

Turns out to be a good buy for around £60. The hose is super-flexible.





And now here's the 'magic' bit

Wrap a lot of turns of duck tape round the Kapex dust outlet. Take a 40mm 90 degree waste pipe bend



Then add one of these



and connect them all together

 

[Malc2098]

Thanks, Roger!

I was wondering how to connect my Aldi to the Kapex. Can I pinch your idea?

 

[MattS]

My dust extraction relies heavily on duck tap! Wish there were standard port sizes would make like so much easier if everything used one of two sizes.

 

[timothyedoran]

They do come in two standard sizes: the one I don't have and the other is the one I should have bought.
[emoji6]

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[AndyP]

Then add one of these

what is one of those? Are where do they breed?

 

[RogerS]

That's a very good question, Andy. I bought it from Woodworkers Workshop when I went on a one-day polishing course. They sold it as an add-on to the Mirka hand sanding kit. But can I find it on their website? Can I as heck.

I'll email them the photo.

I think Brighton Tools have it as well...costs around a fiver, they said.

 

[paulrees1]

Axminster sell them too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[RogerS]

Axminster sell them too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You tease ! What are they called ?

 

[AndyP]

Got it

https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-t ... s-ax966250

I guess the medium sized one would be about right.

A lot easier to find in an old catalogue than searching on their website.

 

[RogerS]

OK..so here we go.

One workshop tour !

The assembly bench and clamps



I made the mistake of oiling the top with some Osmo Polyx HWO. Then I remembered that I detest oils and Osmo in particular as the end result was a very sticky finish. And yes, I did apply it as they suggested. And I wiped off the surplus. It's still tacky to the touch 10 days on. Awful stuff.

Ex Machina



I'm taking advantage of the pallet to stick a few (upside down so the cable comes out from the top) 13 A sockets to give me light power in the middle of the workshop. My sparks is coming to do a bit of tidying up and fit some extra sockets on Monday so I'll get him to finish them off.



Lots of empty shelf space awaiting WIP timber



Sanded and oiled workbench.



This time I used some Chestnut HWO that was yonks old...probably even older than that horrible Osmo stuff but the Chestnut stuff went on and dried - dry as a bone.

Chestnut - 1 Osmo- null pointes

Me screw store. I've settled on torx heads



More clamps...bought for the Orangerie project



Wood store such as it is



I had these spare when I dismantled my ripping sled and so use them to keep the spare plywood sheets together



The all important music centre....t'other speaker is stage right



Drill press



and charging stations




Portable tools ...some hidden lower down



and the 'real' Festool stack - one more is still go in and the all-important sunbathing R&R yellow mat for when I'm 'thinking'



Rotary converter, my favourite bandsaw (well, actually my only one but it was my first and it's a gem) and mitre saw bench (RH side)





My first ever thicknesser - rarely used but it can thickness down some very thin stock that would be shattered probably with more heavy-duty thicknessers and it means that I don't have to waste time faffing about attaching the thin stock to a bearer.

And last but not least my stalwart Clark compressor that has also done sterling service for well over ten years.

So Rejoice !


For tomorrow we make sawdust.

And it's not even Christmas

 

[Malc2098]

Wow! So different from when I saw it about 12 months ago!

 

[Rod]

Looks good

Rod

 

[Phil]

Now that looks good Roger.

Lots of space to move around.

(right, now, one workshop christening scheduled before Christmas )

 

[RogerS]

So having gone back into the workshop to start using the kit in earnest after my shenanigans on the orangerie project, it really brought it home to me what a right old ballache the combination machine is.

So..o.o.o am now thinking about a redesign of the layout so that I can install a nice lump of cast iron 3 phase planer/thicknesser. Some nice old Sedgwicks out there.

 

[9fingers]

So having gone back into the workshop to start using the kit in earnest after my shenanigans on the orangerie project, it really brought it home to me what a right old ballache the combination machine is.

So..o.o.o am now thinking about a redesign of the layout so that I can install a nice lump of cast iron 3 phase planer/thicknesser. Some nice old Sedgwicks out there.

When I had a combination machine (Kity) the biggest conflict was between the table saw and the spindle.
It made running a batch of trim moulding ( mould then rip and repeat) a total PITA. The spindle fence had to come off (losing the setting) to get clearance to run lengths through the saw.

Is your hammer ok in that regard?

Bob

 

[Doug]

When I had a combination machine (Kity) the biggest conflict was between the table saw and the spindle.
It made running a batch of trim moulding ( mould then rip and repeat) a total PITA. The spindle fence had to come off (losing the setting) to get clearance to run lengths through the saw.

Is your hammer ok in that regard?

Bob

The fence on the spindle is lockable so you can remove it & replace it without losing your settings Bob, the main ball ache is moving the saw fence around the machine as it is also the planer fence, though you can get round that by getting a second fence.
Combination machines are a bit of a compromise, I like mine but wouldn’t go the whole hog with a 4 in one machine.

 

[marineboy]

Nice workshop and good photos. Re Osmo, in my experience the key is to apply liberally then wipe off after 15 minutes, then reapply 24 hours later. Failing to wipe off is what causes the stickiness. I’ve used Osmo on my kitchen worktops and IMHO it is brilliant.

 

[RogerS]

So having gone back into the workshop to start using the kit in earnest after my shenanigans on the orangerie project, it really brought it home to me what a right old ballache the combination machine is.

So..o.o.o am now thinking about a redesign of the layout so that I can install a nice lump of cast iron 3 phase planer/thicknesser. Some nice old Sedgwicks out there.

When I had a combination machine (Kity) the biggest conflict was between the table saw and the spindle.
It made running a batch of trim moulding ( mould then rip and repeat) a total PITA. The spindle fence had to come off (losing the setting) to get clearance to run lengths through the saw.

Is your hammer ok in that regard?

Bob

That bit I did get right. As Doug says, there are a couple of optional extras on the Hammer that I went for in the spindle arena. First, is a fine adjuster option on the fence which has two register pins that locate in the table so you can remove the fence and replace without losing the fence settings.

The second was a digital scale on the spindle height since you have to wind it down out of sight before you can do any ripping on the table saw (well, unless you're ripping off matchsticks). It's a 'relative' scale but that's fine. Of course, you don't have to use one as if you have a 'model' piece with the profile in question then you just wind the spindle up to match the 'model'.

Even if I didn't have these, I'm not sure that I'd be switching between spindle and table saw very much. I think Doug shares the same view. What is a PITA is going between table saw and the planer/thicknesser. Hence my interest in a separate P/T ...note to self...check the motor ratings are OK for the converter.


Doug....do you use sacrificial fences on your spindle ? On my Kity, the fences were thick MDF and so screwing on a sacrificial fence was a no-brainer. But they are aluminium extrusion on the Hammer and the best solution I can come up with is to tap threads into the fence.

 

[RogerS]

When I had a combination machine (Kity) the biggest conflict was between the table saw and the spindle.
It made running a batch of trim moulding ( mould then rip and repeat) a total PITA. The spindle fence had to come off (losing the setting) to get clearance to run lengths through the saw.

Is your hammer ok in that regard?

Bob

The fence on the spindle is lockable so you can remove it & replace it without losing your settings Bob, the main ball ache is moving the saw fence around the machine as it is also the planer fence, though you can get round that by getting a second fence.
Combination machines are a bit of a compromise, I like mine but wouldn’t go the whole hog with a 4 in one machine.

Doug...when you got your second fence, did you get this one ?

 

[Doug]

I didn’t get a second fence, it was Brian who did. That said the fence in your photo is the one I have on my saw/spindle combination machine, it’s Hammers standard fence.

Re sacrificial fences I tend to just clamp them to the aluminium fence.

 

[RogerS]

I didn’t get a second fence, it was Brian who did. That said the fence in your photo is the one I have on my saw/spindle combination machine, it’s Hammers standard fence.
.

When you clamp it up, does it stay true? I find the biggest time-waster of the one I have is that you align the fence but then as you tighten the knob, it throws it out.

 

[HappyHacker]

When you clamp it up, does it stay true? I find the biggest time-waster of the one I have is that you align the fence but then as you tighten the knob, it throws it out.

I have the B3 with the standard fence and it does exactly the same. It pushes the back of the fence about 0.5 to 1mm closer the blade. I keep on intending to find time to look at it and find out why but it keeps on getting forgotten as other things rise to the top of the todo list from the management.

I mentioned it to the Hammer/Felder rep at show and he said he was not aware of any problem.

Kevin

 

[RogerS]

....
I mentioned it to the Hammer/Felder rep at show and he said he was not aware of any problem.

Kevin

Was his name Pinocchio, by any chance ?

 

[9fingers]

....
I mentioned it to the Hammer/Felder rep at show and he said he was not aware of any problem.

Kevin

Was his name Pinocchio, by any chance ?

I could imagine that extrusion stresses could make a fence curve slightly and then pull up straight under clamping pressure but even so this should not happen on a quality brand like Hammer.

Bob

 

[RogerS]

....
I mentioned it to the Hammer/Felder rep at show and he said he was not aware of any problem.

Kevin

Was his name Pinocchio, by any chance ?

I could imagine that extrusion stresses could make a fence curve slightly and then pull up straight under clamping pressure but even so this should not happen on a quality brand like Hammer.

Bob

It's not that, Bob, as the fence is straight. Just the lousy design.

 

[9fingers]

Sounds like a candidate for modification to me.

Bob

 

[RogerS]

Sounds like a candidate for modification to me.

Bob

LOL! When are you next up this way ? :eusa-whistle:

 

[9fingers]

Sounds like a candidate for modification to me.

Bob

LOL! When are you next up this way ? :eusa-whistle:

You are somewhere north of Watford I believe? :lol:

Not much chance of straying that far unless the rain stops and the wind is not gale force! :lol:

Bob

 

[AndyP]

The fence on my kity moves when it is tightened. I have always thought that this is due to a combination of slop in the sliding mechanism and and the bolt that holds it in place. Can this be possible with yours?

There are a number of posts on forums across the pond about Hammer machines being bought without the fences and a better quality alternative fence being bought and used instead.

 

[RogerS]

The fence on my kity moves when it is tightened. I have always thought that this is due to a combination of slop in the sliding mechanism and and the bolt that holds it in place. Can this be possible with yours?

There are a number of posts on forums across the pond about Hammer machines being bought without the fences and a better quality alternative fence being bought and used instead.

Do you recall which forums, Andy ?

 

[AndyP]

Before cooking tea I did a quick google on Hammer C3 fence movement first page of results found a forum with chap suggesting buying the Hammer without the fences and links to ones he recommended.
Kids had been on iMac earlier and set Firefox to Private Browsing :evil: so I have no history of the search.

Tried the same search again and can't get the same results.

Will try again later if I can.

 

[9fingers]

I spotted this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty45yEAj4Co

Bob

 

[RogerS]

I spotted this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty45yEAj4Co

Bob

Thanks, Bob, but that's not the issue. By the way, he really needs to improve his sound recording or maybe he'd just come back from the dentist with a mouthful of local anaesthetic ?

 

[AndyP]

Sorry Roger. Have had a couple of goes since and can't find what I am sure I saw. maybe I was dreaming, or under the influence. Will take more care next time.

 

[RogerS]

No worries, Andy. I appreciate you looking.

Had a quick play around yesterday and nothing obvious nor any way to counteract it. I don't have the slop that the US guy had in his 'mumbling' video.