Mdf cladding ideas ?

[paulrees1]

Hi all,

Following a lot of advice on here I embarked on a build of my mother’s alcove cupboard. For various reasons I went for a frame approach which has worked out quite well.

I’ve now got to the stage where I need to clad the frame. Reason for the post is my intention all along has been to clad in 12mm MDF, but as the frame is 350 cms tall and 120cms wide this means there will be joins.

Questions are
1. Will the joins be so noticeable to be annoying ? (I’ll do a good job but expect there’s limitations in what can be done)

2. Is there a way to disguise / hide the joins ? I’m guessing not as she wants a smooth finish to look like the walls

3. Is my best bet to clad with plasterboard and get a plasterer in ? I’d rather a movie this as I’m trying to minimise costs for her

Thanks

Paul

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[RogerM]

I suspect the best result would be with plasterboard. You'd need a steel edge on the outside corner. The areas involved are pretty narrow so it shouldn't be too difficult to get an acceptable finish using a bag of "Onecoat".

Having said that, the same argument would apply to your planned mdf finish, particularly if you used mrmdf. The main problem getting a decent finish would be around the outside corner.

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[AndyP]

Would something like this help. It is a primed MDF cill board. Not sure if it would be wide enough but worth searching for something similar perhaps?


https://www.beatsons.co.uk/timber-sheet ... gth-p14021

 

[9fingers]

My concern would be the lack of support for either type of board at the right hand edge where it meets the wall. Almost certain to give a perpetual crack.

Bob

 

[StevieB]

I cannot see that you will do it in one piece, so yes, you will have joins if you use timber rather than plaster. Plastering will give the best finish and match the walls. If you want to use timber however, then you either have joins with something flat like mdf, or you go for actually strip cladding and joins are not an issue.

If you were to clad that in mdf, to minimise the joins I would put in two vertical pieces to the sides, then two horizontal pieces above the doors, then lip the door openings with architrave. You could go full width with two horizontal pieces then have cut vertical pieces if that minimises the join length.

 

[paulrees1]

My concern would be the lack of support for either type of board at the right hand edge where it meets the wall. Almost certain to give a perpetual crack.

Bob

Hi Bob I’m planning a few more cross braces and then finished with caulk, however from the other responses I’m thinking plasterboard may be the best option


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[Robert]

I was just pondering what I'd do to finish that off.

I can plaster if I have to so plasterboard is an option but I think I'd probably go with the MDF idea.

Not normal MDF but the moisture resistant stuff. It is much less fluffy and will not get ruined the first time water gets thrown around during redecorating. I don't think the butt joining of edges will be a problem as you can put glue on the edges to stabilise the joint then sand it flush to make it disappear. Car filler is good for covering countersunk screw heads. I use plasterboard screws a lot as they are pretty corrosion resistant and have shallow heads.

That corner of the chimney breast (?) will need some more battening to support the cladding edge as Bob points out.

You will also need some kind of decorators caulk as perfect scribing to the wall will be pretty difficult.

Good luck.

 

[AndyP]

That cill board I linked to is 5.4m in length, providing the 220 mm width is enogh to allow the edges to be trimmed (there may be others wider) it would not need joining and it is ready primed.

 

[9fingers]

My concern would be the lack of support for either type of board at the right hand edge where it meets the wall. Almost certain to give a perpetual crack.

Bob

Hi Bob I’m planning a few more cross braces and then finished with caulk, however from the other responses I’m thinking plasterboard may be the best option


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Ok but even with PB you will have a long flappy edge that even with scrim is likely to crack.

Good Luck

Bob

 

[paulrees1]

That cill board I linked to is 5.4m in length, providing the 220 mm width is enogh to allow the edges to be trimmed (there may be others wider) it would not need joining and it is ready primed.

Hi Andy

That would be perfect, unfortunately it’s only available as 18mm and I’ve put the door frames in to match 12mm, will work for the side reveal though so thanks


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[RogerM]

My concern would be the lack of support for either type of board at the right hand edge where it meets the wall. Almost certain to give a perpetual crack.

Bob

Hi Bob I’m planning a few more cross braces and then finished with caulk, however from the other responses I’m thinking plasterboard may be the best option


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ok but even with PB you will have a long flappy edge that even with scrim is likely to crack.

Good Luck

Bob

:text-+1:

 

[AndyP]

That cill board I linked to is 5.4m in length, providing the 220 mm width is enogh to allow the edges to be trimmed (there may be others wider) it would not need joining and it is ready primed.

Hi Andy

That would be perfect, unfortunately it’s only available as 18mm and I’ve put the door frames in to match 12mm, will work for the side reveal though so thanks


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here you go

https://www.skirtingexpress.co.uk/square/

available 12mm thick, square all round and even glossed! Doesn't solve the problem of that unsupported edge though.

 

[paulrees1]

That cill board I linked to is 5.4m in length, providing the 220 mm width is enogh to allow the edges to be trimmed (there may be others wider) it would not need joining and it is ready primed.

Hi Andy

That would be perfect, unfortunately it’s only available as 18mm and I’ve put the door frames in to match 12mm, will work for the side reveal though so thanks


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here you go

https://www.skirtingexpress.co.uk/square/

available 12mm thick, square all round and even glossed! Doesn't solve the problem of that unsupported edge though.

Brilliant thanks, I’m going to check if my local suppliers can get some in they’re usually pretty good for that

In terms of support for the side edge it’s easy enough for me to add support all the way down with some 6x1 equivalent so I’ll be doing that by the sounds of it


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