Wood to wood filler

[Windows]

I’ve got some gaps between my secondary glazing and the existing woodwork that need filling and then I’ll need to paint over it. I have some decorators caulk that seems like it’d work, but I’m wondering if there’s anything less chemical I could use for filling?

 

[RogerS]

Why the aversion to something that will work ?

 

[Windows]

Why the aversion to something that will work ?

Because it says “do not get … on skin” and “may produce an allergic reaction”. I could do without more things to be allergic to.

 

[AndyT]

If the gaps are big enough, you could laboriously plane down little slivers of wood, glue them in, then trim back to fit.

I think I'd use the caulk and wear some gloves!

 

[Cabinetman]

You could maybe put two lines of tape all round the mating area then put a generous line of gloop all round between the lines of tape, and stick a sheet of polythene onto it then fit the s/double glazing and when it squeezes out it should be a perfect fit, when it’s hardened cut around and peel the tapes off.
I must admit to not having tried this but came up with the idea years ago when using S D Glazing.

 

[duke]

Caulking is the way to go.

 

[Mike G]

Caulking is the way to go, but if you have dermatolological concerns, you could use putty. Putty is only linseed oil and chalk dust, which if anything makes your skin feel nicely moisturised after use.

Would cover beads/ mouldings be a better solution?

 

[Windows]

I’ll look again at cover beads. I have some hardware (window hook) that goes right to the edge of one side hard up against the gap so wasn’t sure how to make a bead work for that area. Guess I could scribe it to a sliver there.

Do people generally not use linseed putty for this use because of the drying time? If that’s the only reason, maybe it could be a good option. I love linseed putty.

For caulk, do people use a concave tool for smoothing so that it stands a little proud to allow for shrinkage? Does it go off quickly in the tube once opened?

 

[Mike G]

Decorators caulk, doesn't shrink much. It's easy to work with (slap it in, finish with a damp sponge), and there's no need to get it on your fingers. It does go off a little in the tube, but not badly like silicon. You usually just need to clean out half an inch of the stuff if you've left it for months.

I imagine putty used indoors would dry fairly quickly. If you really wanted to do the job properly, or at least, traditionally, you'd use burnt sand mastic.

 

[Windows]

Given the unanimity of the responses, I used the caulk. Thanks for responding everyone.