Workbench finish

[Bearwoodcraft]

So I had this crazy thought of finishing my workbench with some oil as I have a load of linseed oil left from a project. I don’t think any one I know has used a finish as such bar just layers of oil and paint and varnish etc getting over it in due time.

I have seen mostly state side these amazing finished benches that look like. Dinning table.
So my question do you leave it to weather or clean it up perhaps?

 

[Cabinetman]

Personally I think it’s a good idea to have a finish of some sort to stop the bench top getting dirty, mine has stood up well to all I’ve thrown at it, I put a couple of coats of French polish on it, not shiny as that would be slippery, sanding sealer would have the same effect I suppose. Ian

 

[Doug]

I agree with Ian a finish is a good idea, mine got a couple of coats of oil I had in the workshop at the time I built it, if you’re going to be gluing up on the bench it makes cleaning up spills easy.

 

[DaveL]

I put a coat of finishing oil on my bench, it stops the glue from sticking tight to the top.

 

[RogerS]

Don't use linseed oil. Or if you must then ...and important point coming up ...your wood must be unfinished and without any other coating...use a mix of 50% linseed oil paint, 35% raw linseed oil and 15% balsam turpentine. And put it on thinly. Don't be tempted to then apply a coat of linseed oil because no matter how thinly you apply it, it will still be sticky weeks afterwards. As will all the metal tools, clothes where it inadvertently got transferred during the process.

 

[Phil]

I used boiled linseed and turps 50:50 for a couple of coats to sink in.
Then clean BLO, 2 coats rubbed off and left to dry.

 

[RogerS]

I used boiled linseed and turps 50:50 for a couple of coats to sink in.
Then clean BLO, 2 coats rubbed off and left to dry.

You do have one significant advantage, Phil.

Sun!

 

[AndyT]

My bench has a planed softwood top. I put boiled linseed oil on the top.

Reasons: it's cheap and simple to apply. I had some to hand. It helps prevent glue and dirt from metalworking from sticking. Spilled water or tea doesn't soak in. The finish doesn't make it harder to re-flatten if needed. It's not very slippery.

Wipe or brush it on. Wait an hour. Wipe off all surplus. If you don't wipe off the surplus the oil will cure on the outside leaving a sealed in layer of sticky uncured oil underneath and you'll need to scrape it off and start again. Apply a second coat if you think it's needed.

Dispose of all rags safely after use.

Looking at yours, I suggest planing / sanding the top flat first. Otherwise the top will absorb lots more oil and still need levelling.

I'd also suggest wirebrushing the rust off that nice old Parkinson vice and wiping some BLO on there as well. It will seal the surface so you don't get rust transferring to your hands and your work.

 

[Phil]

You do have one significant advantage, Phil.
Sun!

Currently at 26c heading towards 31c and 33c later in the week.

 

[Alf]

I used boiled linseed and turps 50:50 for a couple of coats to sink in.
Then clean BLO, 2 coats rubbed off and left to dry.

You do have one significant advantage, Phil.

Sun!

I think the advantage he has over your experience, Roger, is using boiled linseed oil. At least that's the impression I'm getting from what you wrote of your experience.

Can't remember what I did to my workbench last time. Finishing oil, probably.

 

[AndyP]

Did I do it all wrong by just giving mine a coat of whatever vile coloured varnish I had lying around?

An old image. If I took a picture today you would hardly be able to see the top at all.

 

[Bearwoodcraft]

My bench has a planed softwood top. I put boiled linseed oil on the top.

Reasons: it's cheap and simple to apply. I had some to hand. It helps prevent glue and dirt from metalworking from sticking. Spilled water or tea doesn't soak in. The finish doesn't make it harder to re-flatten if needed. It's not very slippery.

Wipe or brush it on. Wait an hour. Wipe off all surplus. If you don't wipe off the surplus the oil will cure on the outside leaving a sealed in layer of sticky uncured oil underneath and you'll need to scrape it off and start again. Apply a second coat if you think it's needed.

Dispose of all rags safely after use.

Looking at yours, I suggest planing / sanding the top flat first. Otherwise the top will absorb lots more oil and still need levelling.


Sorry should have made that clear not my bench although the studly bench would be nice this is mine
I'd also suggest wirebrushing the rust off that nice old Parkinson vice and wiping some BLO on there as well. It will seal the surface so you don't get rust transferring to your hands and your work.

 

[Bearwoodcraft]

Did I do it all wrong by just giving mine a coat of whatever vile coloured varnish I had lying around?

An old image. If I took a picture today you would hardly be able to see the top at all.

Why no vice?

 

[Woodbloke]

I put a coat of finishing oil on my bench, it stops the glue from sticking tight to the top.

Similarly here; I just use a couple of coats of beeswax from time to time to stop glue and grunge sticking to the top. I go over it with an old card scraper to remove anything not wanted and it's important that it's cleaned regularly as if not, blobs of hardened glue will make an identical imprint on any work cramped to the top - Rob

 

[Bearwoodcraft]

I put a coat of finishing oil on my bench, it stops the glue from sticking tight to the top.

Similarly here; I just use a couple of coats of beeswax from time to time to stop glue and grunge sticking to the top. I go over it with an old card scraper to remove anything not wanted and it's important that it's cleaned regularly as if not, blobs of hardened glue will make an identical imprint on any work cramped to the top - Rob

I went for danish oil
In the end