It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 15:14
AndyT wrote:Well Rob, it's unusual ( maybe this is a first?) but I don't agree with you there. Chamfers that finish in a curve are what you get if you use an electric router and drop it on/lift it off at the ends of the chamfer. So for me, they look like a quick imitation of hand work. (Unless you are talking about some other style and I've misunderstood.
Woodbloke wrote:Agreed, doing them with a router is much easier, but.....it's almost 100% guaranteed that at the end of the bevel, the cutter will burn unless you're über-swift in lifting it off. Sanding out the burn mark is a nightmare
AJB Temple wrote:I like those shouldered chamfers. I must admit I am quite lazy, so I tend to cut chamfers using a router (electric) but stop it short and cut the stops in by hand with a chisel. If you really want people to know your chamfers are hand cut, then dart stops are quite fun to do:
Tiresias wrote:Thanks all, especially Argus.
My difficulty, Mike, is that I don't like the result I'm getting. It could be because I'm using pine (the frame I'll be applying this to is oak, but I don't have enough to experiment too much) or it could be my incompetence. If what I'm doing is the best way - and that is what I was trying to establish - then obviously I need to practice some more.
I'll look at a chamfer shave. And experiment with other stop treatments. A curve with a step sounds doable.
Thanks again.
Tiresias wrote:I just used a chisel. I have seen chamfer planes, both manufactured and home made, and don’t mind making one. But I can’t see that would help on a short moulding. And would it stop the tear out against the grain?
Sheffield Tony wrote:I too find routers scary, since noticing mine was cutting progressively deeper grooves as the bit was working itself out of a (fairly well tightened) collet. What would happen if I hadn't noticed ? It would have a lot of energy when it left the chuck.
You have to be very careful not to use 6mm shank router bits with a 1/4” (6.35mm) collet, and likewise 12mm bits in a 1/2” (12.7mm) collet.
SamQ aka Ah! Q! wrote:You have to be very careful not to use 6mm shank router bits with a 1/4” (6.35mm) collet, and likewise 12mm bits in a 1/2” (12.7mm) collet.
Dan, surely that is a huge "No, no!!!" ? I have a ½" shank, 2" wide x 1" 'tall' bottoming/tenoning bit that I would categorically NOT use were it to be a 12mm shank/½" collet combo. The thought of the gravitas (mass) that thing has spinning out of a collet at 12,000 rpm is the very real 'stuff of nightmares'. Even in a mighty 3½h.p. router with soft start, this beast of a bit lets you know it's 'got attitude' upon switching on, hand-held.
For that very reason, I have a 'multi-moulding' type 12mm shank bit of similar mass that I picked up for a song, but not used yet as I haven't yet found a supplier for 12mm Makita collets (just laziness - I know they're out there).
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