It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 19:18
Trevanion wrote:I'm sure someone with a lot more hand tool experience will chime in better than I, but from what I was taught you started at the front of the workpiece and worked your way back so that you were always cutting on a downward slope with each pass rather than a full-length pass each time.
Mike Jordan wrote:. My Record 78 can have the fence on either side as shown. You have the answer when you say the timber can be arranged with the grain in the right direction. You could use the grooving plane against the grain for a few strokes before dispensing with the fence and allowing the plane to follow the shallow groove in the right grain direction.
Dr.Al wrote:Mike Jordan wrote:. My Record 78 can have the fence on either side as shown. You have the answer when you say the timber can be arranged with the grain in the right direction. You could use the grooving plane against the grain for a few strokes before dispensing with the fence and allowing the plane to follow the shallow groove in the right grain direction.
Ooh, that's interesting. I'll have to go and have another look at the #78 (I must admit I wrote that post from memory). Maybe it was the depth stop that could only go on one side?
Sheffield Tony wrote:Starting at the far end is the usual recommendation. Usually the finish of the bottom of a groove or rebate isn't a huge concern.
Sheffield Tony wrote:It's also easier if your precision planes are very sharp, having not been used as a makeshift scrub plane
Sheffield Tony wrote:Sometimes the plough tears a bit at the side of the top of the groove - marking it with a gauge first or the spurs might help I guess. Beginning with light cuts ?
Sheffield Tony wrote:Sometimes the plough tears a bit at the side of the top of the groove - marking it with a gauge first or the spurs might help I guess. Beginning with light cuts ?
Woodbloke wrote:I could never get on with those planes, especially the No.78 which I found dire at the best of times. Much as I like my hand tools, fenced planes don’t do it for me. All the ‘issues’ mentioned above can be easily sorted out with a decent cutter in a router table. It’s also remarkably easy to make a stopped rebate which is infinitely more difficult with hand tools - Rob
AndyT wrote:Stopped rebates, like stopped grooves, can be cut with a chisel and finished off with a (hand) router. A bullnose plane can also be used.
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