It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 12:32
novocaine wrote:Ill see if I've got a 4mm bit in the shop that i can weld to a bit of bar for you. Leave it with me.
Malc2098 wrote:Dave, if you could make one long enough for a guitar, I'd be happy to pay for postage and a donation to your charity of choice.
NickM wrote:What went wrong?
Malc2098 wrote:NickM wrote:What went wrong?
You're fighting against the rotation of the cutter all the time. Whereas on a router table, the workpiece is pressed hard against the table and the fence, here, I can only press against the bearings and the washer, and I have to rotate the workpiece at the same time as moving it past the cutter. And I have to try and manage climb cuts, too.
It was a dogs dinner! But the long side of the rebate was ok, it was the short side/long edge that was a mess. I got the body in the vice and stared using a flat file to even it out around the body and and dry fitted the binding and have left it overnight. I'll check later to see how many gaps there are that need smoothing further.
Last year, when I made the Martin 12 String, I made a contraption that hangs the router counterweighted from a vertical track. I had problem or two with that, but I think I will set that up for the second body.
novocaine wrote:guess I'm a sneaky git, I have a few different sizes of bearing and may have been known to make a bushing that sits over the bearing to give me the size I want.
the katsu came with a clever little guide that sits over any cutter and acts as a guide. I've not really used it as you'd have to keep the router in the same orientation for it to work.
NickM wrote:It's going to look brill!
Malc2098 wrote:But I have to find another way to cut the rebates that is less stressful. I might have to invest in the proper tools, if I want to make more instruments.
canoemoose wrote:Malc2098 wrote:But I have to find another way to cut the rebates that is less stressful. I might have to invest in the proper tools, if I want to make more instruments.
I'm coming at this with exactly zero experience of instrument making, but to me this sounds like an ideal application for a router in a pantograph/parallelogram arm. This would hold it plumb but allow it to move in a vertical axis, and then with an edge following bearing to locate horizontally against the body and a single contact point on the base to locate vertically against the body you could follow the edge of the guitar, no matter whether the top was flat, concave or convex. Think of an anglepoise-style lamp arm, but with a router at the end of it with a small custom base.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests