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Computer table - Chapter 4 & 5 - Completed

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Computer table - Chapter 4 & 5 - Completed

Postby Phil » 02 May 2022, 09:38

Computer table

A proper woodworking project for a change. :D
A very ambitious project testing my very limited skills, knowledge and patience. :shock:

Winter two years ago I relocated my computer from the study, South side of the house, to the one bedroom on the North side for some winter sun and heat.

I did not want to move the study table as it was a bit large for the room.

So next best thing was a fold down camping table. At 600mm high not ideal height so I used one of the plastic patio chairs as a seat. After 2 years I decided that a better permanent solution was needed. (my arm and wrist were getting painful)

Camping table.jpg
The temporary camping table
(30.38 KiB)


The table in the study could then be used for other purposes (like the model train set 8-) ).

Firstly, get the ideas/thoughts on paper.

My friendly Excel-Cad is used ……………..

ComputerTableDesign.jpg
Computer Generated Table Design (Excel CAD)
(35.34 KiB)


I could sketch the basics and get most of the dimensions.

When construction started I moved onto a scale drawing and scraps of scribbles.

ScaleDrawing.jpg
Scale drawing - 5mm squares
(20.76 KiB)


The plan was to have some M&T’s ………………….

The stock could now be bought.

The decision was to use good ‘ol RSA rubbish pine, not expensive and if it was a FUP not a huge loss.

Frame - laminated 44x44x3000mm (3 off)
Top - laminated 20x305x2400 (1 off)

For the edging around the top the initial idea was to trim some white oak, but then I found some 18mm thick Oregon Pine 75mm wide. This could be cut 20mm wide to fit the pine.
The Oregon Pine was bought about 30 years ago from one of these second hand demolition shops. No specific projects in mind.

FrameStockBeforeplaner.jpg
Frame stock before thickness
(14.62 KiB)


The Pine for the frame went through the EB - TP to ensure 44mm all round.

The finished top would be 1200mm long which included the 18mm edge. The top plank was cut in the middle of the 2400mm, more than enough allowance for waste.

CutPinePlank.jpg
Cutting of the pine plank used for the top
(33.26 KiB)


The 305mm wide plank also had a slight twist, so each half was then cut into 3 lengths (total 6) with 2 of the planks being rejected. Fortunately I had some in stock the right length and could cut another 2 lengths.

These were all then edged on the router table using a straight fluting bit.
EdgingRouterTable.jpg
Edging on the router table
(24.14 KiB)

BoardsCutEdgedArranging.jpg
Boards cut and edged, arranging for best fit
(38.42 KiB)


They would be joined with biscuits and Gorilla.

The table saw was used as an assembly table for the top. The boards were laid out getting the best and closest fit. Then a small sticky label with its number.

Next was to mark where the biscuits would go. I tend to use a lot of chalk to do my marking as it is easy to remove. It also easily wipes off as you handle the boards. (watch carefully!)
A #20 biscuit will be used.

MarkingBiscuits.jpg
Marking the boards for biscuits
(21.33 KiB)


The router table is set up with a biscuit bit, right height and depth.
First a piece of scrap is used, checked and any adjustment made.
All the boards are then routed.

Sorry, no pics :(

Back to the saw table, dry fitting with biscuits and extending a couple of holes.
Satisfied? Yes not too shabby a fit.

Next up the glue job.

The first 2 blanks - a near-FUP! The complete lengths need to be wiped with glue, used an old toothbrush ………………….

The biscuit slots need lots of glue ……………………

The glue on the board edges was already very tacky making alignment difficult (this is where a rubber mallet earns its keep. Remember this is crappy pine)

Below the joint, protection was needed for squeeze out, copious lengths of toilet paper (1 ply).
Clamp up and hope for the best.

GlueFirstBoarsd.jpg
Glue up of first boards
(21.08 KiB)


Looked ok.
Added one more plank to this lot, but got lot smarter. Wiped the edge of both boards with a damp cloth before applying the glue.

MUCH BETTER!

The last two planks were glued and then the whole lot joined together. Fortunately I have some long sash clamps.

FinalGlueAllBords.jpg
Final glue up of all boards
(18.09 KiB)


While this lot was curing, I moved on to the frame.

Just an aside job, a trivet for the table. (Guess what for!)

Trivet_Laptop.jpg
Trivet
(259.81 KiB)


Another fun filled, thrilling, action packed instalment to follow ……………. 8-)
Last edited by Phil on 18 Jun 2022, 10:09, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Computer table

Postby AndyT » 02 May 2022, 12:51

I'm glad you managed to get it together in time!

If when you say Gorilla glue, you mean their polyurethane, I'd like to suggest an experiment for your next project. I know polyurethane is now widely available and heavily advertised, but if you're not on a production line its speed of setting is a disadvantage.

For all my furniture making, I use liquid hide glue, made by Titebond.

It has these advantages:
- It's plenty strong enough
- The shelf life in the bottle is several years
- you can apply it by dribble from the bottle, brush or stick
- clean up with a damp rag is easy
- it sands nicely
- it doesn't interfere with finishes
- if you really need to dismantle, it is reversible with plenty of heat/steam

and it gives you a nice calm open time of about half an hour! Plenty of time to fiddle about with clamps etc and get everything lined up nicely.
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Re: Computer table

Postby Phil » 02 May 2022, 13:51

Andy, I use the Gorilla Wood Glue which has some water tolerance.
The open time is more than enough when using any form of decent wood. (SA Pine = soft-crap)

I did look locally for some hide glue, but nothing available.
The overseas products are slowly filtering in, I will keep an eye open when getting the local wood e-mails.
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Re: Computer table

Postby Mike G » 02 May 2022, 14:29

I've worked with South African pine. It's awful stuff! It's worse than any pine we get here, being incredibly soft, and extremely fast grown. I've seen 2x1s with only 2 growth rings. It'll be a challenge, Phil, making anything decent out of it, but I wish you well with the project, and hope it stays stable.
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Re: Computer table

Postby Andyp » 02 May 2022, 17:26

Will certainly be an improvement on the existing.
I do not think therefore I do not am.

cheers
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Re: Computer table

Postby Phil » 05 May 2022, 12:41

Andyp wrote:Will certainly be an improvement on the existing.


It is ............... 8-)
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Re: Computer table

Postby Phil » 05 May 2022, 12:48

Mike G wrote:I've worked with South African pine. It's awful stuff! It's worse than any pine we get here, being incredibly soft, and extremely fast grown. I've seen 2x1s with only 2 growth rings. It'll be a challenge, Phil, making anything decent out of it, but I wish you well with the project, and hope it stays stable.



Mike, fully agree.

Years ago at one of the factories where I worked they imported a huge 6 colour printer from Switzerland.

It arrived in large crates.

I asked the project engineer to keep me some planks and beams, and ended up with combi load.
My thoughts were good European timber once cleaned up.

It was pine. In some respects worse than the local crappy pine.

I still have a couple of beams which have been planed, and will find a use for it one day.
(some it ended up as T-light candle holders (there is a thread)
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Re: Computer table - Chapter 2

Postby Phil » 07 May 2022, 12:26

Computer table - chapter 2

Continued ………….

Just an important note - at some stage the F-Up Fairy decided to visit. Not only the F-Up Fairy but the whole bloody family and their mobile home!

The frame

The top fished size would be 1200mm x 550mm
The frame will be 1200mm x 600mm

The difference in size is to leave a gap at the back for the cables

The front, back and sides were measured and marked. The same tape measure for the whole project, therefore same margin of error.

Selecting what and where to cut of the 3 lengths was dependant on the knots and some minor defects.
Selection at Mica was unpacking the shelf looking for the straightest and defect free lengths. (I suspect that they are not impressed with me)

Two x 600mm for the sides and two x 1200mm for the front and back.

Joining the frame together will be overlap joints secured with Gorilla and screws.
All 4 cut pieces were then marked for the overlap joints.

Totally out of character I decided to cut the eight overlaps with chisels that I had sharpened.

I decided to use the hacksaw with a new metal fine tooth blade for a clean cut, and then later also a cut using the RAS.

CleanCutSaw-MetalBlade.jpg
The metal saw blade also a clean cut
(34.1 KiB)


RAS_Cut.jpg
The RAS clean cut
(34.05 KiB)


The tin opener selected was a 25mm Anant which was sharpened. (I suspect I need some practice) and my Beech mallet.

ChoppingAway.jpg
Chopping away
(30.73 KiB)


Chopped three and decided that the softish pine did not lend itself to this method some breakout.

Chopping_2.jpg
Chopping away - not that great
(16.11 KiB)


So, back to the RAS. Fast efficient and accurate, excellent fit.

Frame assembly

Before starting the assembly I decided to do a full size drawing for the angles of the legs and fitting the legs to the bottom bracket.

I have a roll of white craft liner (250gsm and width 2000mm) which when trimmed will fit on the work bench top, lots of drawing instruments.

FullScaleDrawing.jpg
The full scale drawing
(16.38 KiB)


This was well worth the effort.

The front of the frame clamped, glued and screwed.
Squaring the corners I used the large engineers square (another good investment).
Glue and 2 screws per join

Frame_1_Front.jpg
Front of frame being screwed and glued
(31.83 KiB)


Frame turned around to do the back.
Nice tight fit

Frame_2_Back.jpg
Back of frame being screwed and glued
(31.83 KiB)


Now bear in mind that the frame at the back will rest on two supports and screwed/bolted in place.

Surely the holes should have been drilled on the drill press before assembly? #^%#$&*(|)(|)
Will get back to deal with this later

I also set up a second work area using the top of the table saw.

SecondWorkArea.jpg
The second work area, assembly area and consumables
(41.08 KiB)


Thank you for reading.

Another fun filled, thrilling, action packed instalment to follow …………….
We don't stop woodworking because we grow old, we grow old because we stop woodworking!

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Re: Computer table - Chapter 2

Postby Phil » 14 May 2022, 09:15

Computer table - Chapter 3

Continued ………….

Back to the top.
Some working instructions ……………

ConstructionJWorkList.jpg
Constrction work list
(27.38 KiB)


The Oregon pine lengths were cut on the table saw to 22mm widths and then fed through the EB-TP to final thickness of 20mm

These were cut into the required lengths for the top.

1 x 1200mm front
2 x 600mm sides
1 x 1112mm back

Then all pieces marked for drilling of the screw holes, the fence on the drill adjusted to drill in the middle, and pieces just fed through.

After all the holes were drilled, the countersink bit fitted and the holes ‘reamed’.

Then it was fit the sides first, glue and screw.
The front piece next which overlapped the sides and finally the back piece.
Looked ok.

Top_Edge_1.jpg
Top edging
(26.3 KiB)


Top_Edge_2.jpg
Top edging
(27.25 KiB)


The top was then lifted onto the frame (router table top is same height as work bench) to check the fit.
Small difference on the one side of about 1.5mm at the back - can live with that.

Top_on-Frame.jpg
The top on the drame
(31.93 KiB)


Top & frame clamped and flipped over.
Next job was to fit some cross pieces under the top just in case it decided to move.

CrossPieces.jpg
Cross pieces
(38.99 KiB)


At the same time I needed to decide on how the top will be attached to the frame.
There was some scrap pieces left over from the top edging.
Cut into 2 lengths, one slightly shorter which was the screwed onto the other bit.
The longer piece was the glued and screwed to the top.
The upper piece was then screwed to the frame.

Table_bottom brackets.jpg
Bottom brackets
(14.23 KiB)


Cross_Edge-Joiners.jpg
Cross edge joiners
(30.13 KiB)


Another fun filled, thrilling, action packed instalment to follow …………….
We don't stop woodworking because we grow old, we grow old because we stop woodworking!

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Re: Computer table - Chapter 3

Postby Malc2098 » 14 May 2022, 10:01

Blimey! Your working instructions are so much neater than mine!
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Re: Computer table - Chapter 3

Postby Phil » 22 May 2022, 08:45

Thank you Malcolm :D
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Re: Computer table - Chapter 3

Postby Phil » 18 Jun 2022, 10:08

I have been a bit slack in posting, been busy with budgets, sorting out laptops & software and started another project which is already nearing completion.

The table has been in use since middle May :D :D :D


Computer table Chapter 4 & 5 - completed


Continued ………….

AND,YES, the F-Up-Fairy did visit ..............

Finishing
The top was now ready for sanding.

First some 180grit using the Makita 1/3 sander.

Then some 240grit using the Makita ROS.

(did I mention I had bought a Makita ROS? It was a tossup between the sander and a new phone. A no brainer decision) 8-)

The top was now ready for staining.

ReadyForStain.jpg
Top sanded and ready for staining
(28.72 KiB)


The stain will be Teak. I tested some on a piece of scrap.
Teak spirit stain and Teak gel stain.

StainComparison.jpg
Comparing the stains - gel on the left
(30.25 KiB)


The spirit stain looked more yellow than brown, so the decision was to use the Teak gel stain.

The Pine is very absorbent and tends to get a bit blotchy, not the end of the world.

Stained.jpg
Stained - looks ok from far away
(25.8 KiB)


Stained_2.jpg
Slight blotching
(36.26 KiB)


Stained_3.jpg
Stained different angle
(18.99 KiB)


Being a soft wood I decided that the finish needed to be something more hard wearing than just an oil coat.

I decided on Woodoc 10 interior poly wax finish.
The first coat is a flood coat and you keep on applying till there are no more dry areas.
Leave for 24 hours.

A very light sanding by hand using 240 grit and then the second coat.
Before the 3rd final coat a light sanding by hand with 600 grit.
Feels so good and smooth.

The final coat is applied, after a few minutes it is wiped off with kitchen paper towel. This gives a matt finish.
Finally a rub down with an old towel (not too rough).
Final quality check and feel all over. Feels so good and smooth.

Sealed_1.jpg
Sealed first coat
(28.7 KiB)


Sealed_2.jpg
Sealed
(25.19 KiB)


Sealed3.jpg
Sealed and rubbed down
(32.47 KiB)


The frame was then next for finishing. Same process of staining and sealing as the top.
Use your imagination for pictures!


The final sprint for the home run ……………. :D

Computer table Chapter 5 - Final


Continued ………….

Legs

The legs were cut to length using the full scale drawing.
The base of the leg was then marked per the drawing for the correct angles, and sawn on the RAS (tricky lining up the leg to the blade.

The legs were then stained, the sealing will be done last.

The bottom of the leg that screws onto the wall bracket needed to be at an angle, so a quick little angle jig was made from some scrap wedges from the trestles project.

AngleDrillingJig.jpg
Angle drilling jig
(24.9 KiB)


LegBase.jpg
Base of leg showing angles and screw hole
(32.05 KiB)


Legs sealed, ready for installation.

Brackets
The table will be attached to the wall at the top with brackets using 8mm bolts.

Remember the #^%#$&*(|)(|) :evil: holes in the frame that were not drilled? This now had to be attended to.
Drilling freehand into Pine has its challenges.
Haul out the Bosch cordless.
First a 3mm pilot hole right through.
Then a 15mm Forstner deep enough the take the bolt head and an 8mm hole for the bolt. These had to be shortened by 10mm using the hacksaw.

The bottom brackets were easy, 100mm long with 2 x 75mm long plug screws that are just hammered in.
Stain and seal.
The 100mm top brackets would also be fitted with 2 x 75mm long plug screws that are just hammered in.
Then there is the hole for the 8mm bolt.
Here the FUF had a party - the holes were drilled on the wrong side. Scrap 2 brackets, start from scratch.

The workshop twit then stuffed them up again!!! :oops: :oops:
Re-do - focus on what you are doing!!!!!!!!!!!! :shock:

WallBrackets_FUP.jpg
Wall brackets F-Up
(29.37 KiB)



Installation
To ensure no more FUP’s, I drew the dimensions and heights of the brackets and top.
Stuck this on the sliding door handle.

FrameInstallation.jpg
Frame installation works instruction
(20.87 KiB)


First fit the left hand top bracket at the correct distance from the door and floor.
The holes were drilled using and old Bosch impact driver and SDS bits.
5mm Hole and then 7mm bit. The drill, bit, plaster and bricks all operate with minds of their own!
Screws hammered in.

WallBracket.jpg
Wall bracket showing frame bolt
(20.56 KiB)


The bottom bracket was also drilled and fitted.

The right hand top bracket was an issue getting it level and the correct distance from the left bracket.
It was out by 2mm horizontal and vertical. #^%#$
This meant that the bolt hole in the top needed to be drilled wider and a round rasp applied to get a reasonable fit.
The frame was fitted to the wall brackets and supported in the front with a long piece of off cut and a clamp.
A spirit level was used to ensure the frame was level.

The legs were now measured for fitting to the base and screwing to the frame.
No pictures, nothing exciting.

The foot with its angle hole pushed against the wall and screwed tight with 1 screw, it was going nowhere!

The top of the leg was screwed on with 2 x 75mm screws.
It was very sturdy.

Frame_Fitted.jpg
Frame fitted to wall
(17.08 KiB)


The base of the top before fitting.

Table_bottom.jpg
Bottom of table
(24.81 KiB)


Top fitted and screwed down.

TopFitted.jpg
The top fitted to the frame
(21.64 KiB)


Completed and ready to be used.

Completed_1.jpg
Completed
(54.32 KiB)


Completed_2.jpg
Completed another view
(49.68 KiB)


:D :D

The table occupied. On the right is the old laptop. I am still looking at what files need to be copied, archived before I pack it away in the study.

In_Use.jpg
Table in use - new laptop left
(28.82 KiB)


Thank you for your patience in reading my ramblings.

O, yes, remember the trivet that was made in the distant past?

That is for the laptop to stand on for air circulation and to keep it cool. (there is a thread under Woodmanglers about my hot laptop)
The new laptop certainly does not generate that much heat.


Phil
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Re: Computer table - Chapter 4 & 5 - Completed

Postby 9fingers » 18 Jun 2022, 10:48

Nice result Phil.

I rarely use pine and only a few of those times have I stained it. I read somewhere about using sanding sealer first and virtually sanding it all off with the result that the more absorbent areas, that cause the patchiness, are sealed and the stain goes on better. Seemed to work for me. Same for the end grain - helps to keep it closer colour to the face grain.

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Re: Computer table - Chapter 4 & 5 - Completed

Postby Andyp » 18 Jun 2022, 11:01

Well done Phil.
Are you sure it is big enough though?
I do not think therefore I do not am.

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Re: Computer table - Chapter 4 & 5 - Completed

Postby Phil » 20 Jun 2022, 12:59

9fingers wrote:Nice result Phil.

I rarely use pine and only a few of those times have I stained it. I read somewhere about using sanding sealer first and virtually sanding it all off with the result that the more absorbent areas, that cause the patchiness, are sealed and the stain goes on better. Seemed to work for me. Same for the end grain - helps to keep it closer colour to the face grain.

Bob


Thanks Bob.
I generally sand the end grain a lot more and finer, so its not too obvious.
With all the stuff on the table the uneven staining is not that visible. :D
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Re: Computer table - Chapter 4 & 5 - Completed

Postby Phil » 20 Jun 2022, 13:03

Andyp wrote:Well done Phil.
Are you sure it is big enough though?



Thanks Andy.
It looks crowded with the old laptop still there.
Once packed away there is enough space. The more space the more junk.

It is as wide as the other table but about 600mm shorter.
Having the legs out the way is another big advantage (I have only bashed the left leg with my knee - some blood :o )
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