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Cladding Profiles

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Cladding Profiles

Postby AJE78 » 08 Jul 2021, 10:47

Hi Folks

I had a quick question regarding cladding to my workshop. I''m yet to start the workshop so still in the designing and working out stage but hopes are high that it'll get going this summer. Hoping at least!

I'm intending to clad vertically onto graded battens; counter battening onto vertical graded battens to ensure airflow between the cladding and the house wrap membrane. I would like to use shadow gap boards and wondered what the thoughts and opinions were on the two profiles I was looking at:

half lap rebate shadow gap
half lap rebate.JPG
(11.73 KiB)


deep T&G shadow gap
shadow gap.JPG
(11.76 KiB)


Is there any real difference in performance of the two profiles in terms of stability and weather proofing? From the aesthetic point of view I'm happy with both profiles, personally the first one looks nice and basic and basic is good in my view. I'm just wanting to take some opinions on the constructional merits and perils (if any) from the knowledge others have on this.

Cheers

Andy
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby greeno » 08 Jul 2021, 12:07

I have the first profile on my "shed" in siberian larch.

Whilst I can't comment on a comparison between the profiles, what we've got looks good and has weathered well.

From my experience you want a good overlap to avoid any shrinkage opening up gaps, but if it's being sold as external cladding then you'd hope...
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby greeno » 08 Jul 2021, 12:09

We got ours from here:

https://millworks.co.uk/

And they were pretty helpful.
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby AJE78 » 08 Jul 2021, 18:12

Cheers Greno that's helpful feedback. So pretty stable and nice a weather tight by sounds of it.

I was also looking up details of cladding and found these two documents from Wood Campus website:

Horizontal cladding
fixing cladding.JPG
(135.6 KiB)


Vertical Cladding
vertical cladding.JPG
(112.35 KiB)


Now I am likely comparing apples and oranges here and bearing in mind I want to install vertically I should probably ignore the first image but I'm going to ask!

The horizontal installation for Option 2 Rebated specifies a 3mm expansion gap which isn't referenced in the vertical install diagram. Similarly, the horizontal cladding option for Option 2 Rebated shows a different nailing pattern to the vertical installation which has two face fixed nails per board, instead of one nail in the rebate and one in the face.

Can anyone point me to guidance/advise me on the most suitable option for fixing rebated shadow gap vertically? Or its it really just as simple as butt up the rebates, pre drill holes and then two stainless ring shank nails hammered home?

TVM

Andy
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby Mike G » 08 Jul 2021, 20:35

Don't take the slightest notice of those Wood Campus diagrams. The horizontal boarding one is a joke. It is only ever one nail per board per batten, and that allows for wood movement, so every single one of their options is completely wrong. The vertical boarding one makes the same mistake re nails, but gets everything else right.

Just reading your description of the vertical boarding set up, it sounds as though you have the counterbattens and the horizontal battens the wrong way around. That may just be me misunderstanding what you have in mind, so forgive me if I now go on to tell you exactly what you were planning to do anyway! First against your structure go the counterbattens (vertical). On them goes the horizontal battens, with a sloped top edge taking the water away from the back face of the boards.

The big deal with vertical boarding is the detail at the top and (particularly) the bottom, because the build-up is so deep. You need to think about the aesthetics of the junction with the plinth, and you also need to think about keeping insects and vermin out of that lovely inviting cavity.
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby AJE78 » 09 Jul 2021, 10:13

Hi Mike, thanks for the info on those diagrams, its so helpful and also a reassurance because they seemed not quite right and I couldn't put my finger on it! Duly ignored!

I've muddled my descriptions on my battening, communications isn't my strongest suit! I am following what you described. Vertical onto the frame then running horizontally from this. I'm using 25mmx50mm graded roofing battens fixing with 63mm galvanised ringshank nails. With regards to the slope on the top of the horizontal battens would it be acceptable to rip a gradient into the top of each batten? Or maybe glue a sort of fillet/furring strip across the length? What would be the accepted practice on this?

For the junction at the top I was intending to follow this (from Thallon):
soffit.jpg
(164.41 KiB)

Although I will not be using sheathing as detailed in that drawing and will be following the arrangement detailed in your how to build a shed. Does this seem ok?

With regards to details at the bottom of the cladding I was intending to run the board 30mm past the DPC, that the soleplate is sitting on. Then do my best to staple insect mesh to the bottom horizontal batten and the face of the sole plate. If I can muster the time I can try and do a small sketch up diagram to detail and would probably help me visualise it better myself.

Also, was looking at sweet chesnut cladding. Seems like a good option and alternative to siberian larch. Any thoughts on this?

Cheers

Andy
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby greeno » 09 Jul 2021, 10:47

I know you're meant to have an angle for run off on the counter baton but I didn't bother.

If you do rip something along its length then you'll probably need to treat it. Don't know if you can get anything small enough with an angle and pre treated.

For larch it was stainless ringshanks not galvanised. Then I drilled/ nailed.

You have to have a think about all the layers, as Mike said to get a small air gap behind. Plus you need to rout a profile on the bottom of each board to give a drip edge.

We used cedar shingles as the building is not so big, as a design feature, we don't have fascias and sofits so you can see the underside of the shingles. And the gutter is onto painted rafter feet. More head scratching for airflow but nothing hard in the end.
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby AJE78 » 09 Jul 2021, 11:40

Thanks Greeno, good advice. I agree seems likely that I would have to make something up myself for the top batten. I've got some Barrentine end grain sealer that I usually use for treated CLS so could probably brush that on. I'll have to see how I get on with this. The vertical cladding is purely a visual thing so I'm most likely making more work for myself. I just seem to prefer the vertical lines. Purely vanity!

Appreciate the tip about routing a drip bead in the back of the board. I hadn't thought of that and will do it when the time comes.

I will be using end grain sealer (the clear OSMO product) for the boarding as well to help limit water ingress.

I think I have confused things again as well! I'll use galvanised for the battens and then stainless ringshanks for the boarding, hand nailing these.

You're right the layers are so important and if it weren't for Mike's brilliant guide I would not be getting this right.

Cheers

Andy
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby heimlaga » 25 Aug 2021, 22:01

In our climate up here vertical cladding generally last half again longer than horizontal cladding. That is provided that the boards are turned with the top end down and the heartwood side out. I have seen vertical cladding from the 1750-ies still going strong but generally it lasts around 100-120 years. Horizontal rarely lasts more than 60-80 years. This because in weather beaten timber every growth ring becomes a shelf collecting water and channeling it into the timber and because there are horizontal joints and steps collecting water.

For vertical cladding our locally grown spruce has proven to be better than pine. This because spruce closes some of it's pores when it dries. The traditional standard is 7/8 inch thick rough sawn boards in whatever width between 5 and 10 inches you get out of the logs with 3/4x2 inch battens over the gaps. Battens nailed with one four inch nail through the gap between the boards.

However this is in the slightly humid and by your standards very very cold climate of western Finland. The situation is certainly different elsewhere.
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Re: Cladding Profiles

Postby AJE78 » 06 Sep 2021, 11:31

Hi Heimlaga

Thanks for the thoughts on this, really interesting to hear.

I had a couple of questions because I'm not much of an expert on these things:

1. What do you mean by top end down?
2. How do you know which side is heartwood?
3. Could you share any pictures of typical/classic cladding style e.g board on board, feather edge edge for your area? Be really interested to see this?

Cheers

Andy

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