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Hand saw with zero set on one side

The only ones I am aware of are the flush cut saws. Veritas in my case. Quite small.
 
Thanks! That sounds perfect for at least one of my uses actually. I’m using a no set flush cut saw quite a lot now, but figure it would cut faster & bind less with some set, but still want the smooth result of no set on one side.

Still interested if there are any larger versions out there.
 
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I bought a cheap pull saw from Lidl, came with two identical blades.
I stoned the side of one blade and use it as a flush cut saw for the odd occasion that I need one.
Generally pull saws and I don’t get along.
 
Lurker said:
I bought a cheap pull saw from Lidl, came with two identical blades.
I stoned the side of one blade and use it as a flush cut saw for the odd occasion that I need one.
Generally pull saws and I don’t get along.
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So you took out the set from one side only? What do you mean by ‘stoned’? Put it on a grinding stone?
 
Windows said:
So you took out the set from one side only? What do you mean by ‘stoned’? Put it on a grinding stone?
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'Stoning' a saw blade means to run a flat sharpening stone end-to-end along the length of the blade against the points of the teeth in order to reduce or eliminate the amount of set.

Flush-cut saws have no appreciable set to the teeth and are specialised saws, used in close proximity to a surface without leaving the scratch-marks that would be visible from a saw with a set to the teeth..... typically removing dowels etc flush with the board.

Back to the OP's original question..... I'm not sure what I would use a saw that had a set on only one side for......... wouldn't it tend to wander off the guide-lines?
 
I'd be cautious about stoning a saw with hard-point teeth. It will do the job perfectly well, but likely stuff up the face of the stone in the process.

And yes, it's a curious set of criteria......set one side, but not the other. I'm curious.
 
Mike G said:
I'd be cautious about stoning a saw with hard-point teeth. It will do the job perfectly well, but likely stuff up the face of the stone in the process.
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I agree.
Induction-hardened or hard-point teeth teeth are precisely that - bloody hard.....they'll rubbish any decent stone.

It may be possible to bang 'em flat on an anvil, then re-set one side with a cold chisel..... expect breakages!!!

But................ why one sided?
 
Yeah sorry!
Note to self: don’t give advice without details.
I should have added that the stone was a cheap unwanted one.
Can’t really wander on a flush cut can it?
 
Never having used a saw with set on only one side, I wasn’t aware that wandering off the line might be more likely. I’m hoping to use it for cross cuts and rip cuts (such as for bridle joints) which I currently use a flush cut saw for. The flush cut is good because very fine teeth and no set leave a clean surface. I had imagined that some set would increase cutting speed, but putting it only in the waste side would leave the nice surface on the keep side, so wondering if there were saws with set on one side only.

Maybe it’s a dopey idea.
 
The problem is that set is the thing which enables you to make micro-adjustments, and stay on your true line. If you effectively halve the amount of set you've got, you'll make it very difficult for yourself in trying to follow your line.

Honestly, just practice. It's perfectly possible to cut superb joints straight from the saw with a normal set. That's the way it's been done for centuries. If it isn't working out for you yet, it's not down to the set of the saw.
 
I’m having no trouble sawing on the line. I’m staying on the line just fine with zero set and both-sided set. I’m looking to increase cutting speed while maintaining a smooth finish.
 
Windows said:
I’m having no trouble sawing on the line. I’m staying on the line just fine with zero set and both-sided set. I’m looking to increase cutting speed while maintaining a smooth finish.
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Zero set? It's impossible to adjust......so unless you start out perfect....... Anyway, ho hum. I'm not meaning to be anything other than helpful. Sorry to offend.
 
You haven’t offended me at all Mike. I can tell you’re being helpful and I appreciate it. Just trying to make clear why I was wondering about one-sided set.

Also to clarify, I am currently using a flush cut saw to cut bridle joints in 2x2s so really short distances; shorter than the very short saw I’m using to cut them.
 
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If you are thinking about cuts that will make the inside surfaces of joints, there's no need for them to be as smooth as a planed surface that's on show.

It's perfectly normal to make joints with the ordinary tools that have been used for many years.
 
AndyT said:
If you are thinking about cuts that will make the inside surfaces of joints, there's no need for them to be as smooth as a planed surface that's on show.

It's perfectly normal to make joints with the ordinary tools that have been used for many years.
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Yes quite right plus a sawn surface is far stronger after gluing.
 
From what I’ve read on the subject planed joints give a stronger bond than joints off a saw, less chance of very small gaps that weaken the glue joint
 
A smooth surface is always going to produce a stronger joint because glue works best when there is a very thin film.
Unless it’s epoxy.


Pete
 
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