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Wheelie Bin Store

K

kevcad

Seedling
Joined
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Name
Kev
LOCATION
South Yorks
1000018154.jpgHi All, hope all your projects are going well. I'm building a wheelie bin store. Making mistakes but hopefully learning from them. My lids are not perfect but they will have to do for now. What I would like to be perfect or better than the lids, is the doors. I'm hesitating starting them so would appreciate some advice. For the door frames I have 2 x 1 treated Wood stock. Same as I used for the lids. For the lids I used butt joints as there is no pressure on the corners. For the doors however I'm reluctant to use butt joints as the strain of hanging on a hinge may not be strong enough. I'm looking for advice on manufacturing the door frames, particularly the corners. I plan to clad with diagonal planks as per the side. I have a biscuit jointer though can't see that working here. I also have some loose tenons which I used for the 2x2 bin store frame. Had to make my own jig for that as I can't afford a festool.
I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure.
Cheers Kev
 
Looks fine as it without doors... sorry if not helpful 😔

I noticed the timber for the tops are running 'horizontal'... left to right. My concerns would be that the t&g will open as we (hopefully) get dry weather. If they do then any rain - when we get it - may/will leak in. If you decide to change it in the future then running them 'vertical' the rain water will run along the joint groove. Suggestion offered to assist. I know it's for the wheelie bins but...

Example: My daughter and son-in-law bought a play house/shop for the grandson last summer. The roof t&g had dried and some gaps opened - the boards running as with yours... no underneath used.

Now we've had lots of rain the last few months, the boards have expanded and forced some of the boards to lift. This has also let in the rain so they've put a tarpaulin over. I'll be expected to re-lay or replace the roof this year.
 
I would do a door on each bay , lap joint construction and a barrel bolt top and bottom will it secure it. Looks good, well done!
 
Thanks everyone for you comments. I agree I would look ok with no doors, but the management wants doors on. I'll take Duke's advice and make lap joints although it will require 24 cuts for 3 doors. Having never done a lap joint before, I thought it would be easy, but having tried my first one with the mitre saw I'm having second thoughts and may try with the table saw. I've seen on YouTube people using a dado stack. Not sure if I can fit one of those to my table saw. How do you guys cut lap joints?
 
If your mitre-saw hasn't got the facility to do 'trench cuts' - an adjustable pin/level to stop the blade going full depth - you won't be able to do lap joints on it.

I've found it safer to use a handsaw and do it the old fashioned way... or handsaw and chisel... a number of saw cuts along the part for removal and chisel to clean up.

Using a table say can be dangerous - but is possible with great care. I understand that using *dado stacks* is not allowed in the UK - but willing to be advised differently. My understanding is that the width of the tablesaw insert plate is not wide enough for the dado stack.
 
Or just butt joint or mitre the door frame and screw together then with your diagonal cladding which will keep it from sagging.
Keep in mind to run the diagonal cladding from bottom of hinge side to the opposite top side.
 
Accipiter said:
width of the tablesaw insert plate is not wide enough for the dado stack.
Click to expand...
I thought it was that the length of the arbour is too short on "European" machines.
Perhaps both,although Iirc there was someone who claimed on his yt video that he had a very simple set fitted to an Evolution.
They seem to be widely available in Sterling on on Amazon/ebay
 
It may well be the length of the arbour Martin (@fuse ) ? As well as the width of the slot for the blade installed the insert plate? The width on the Evolution R255TBL+ is around/just over ¼" I think... without checking it. I've a 6mm flat tooth blade, yet to use, which I got after watching 10MW (10 minute workshop) on YouTube.

I'll be interested to hear and learn more about if using a dado stack, up to a certain width, is indeed feasible (and allowable? ) in the UK... Seems to be a useful way to use the tablesaw in some instances.
 
I dont think Special Branch would be kicking the door in at 5am if you bought yourself a set ;)
Aside the arbour length and physical gap there is the integrity of the bearing and motor to consider -theres a lot more mass to initiate and a lot more cutting load transferred.
The 255 tbl+ would probably be ok for a while but lower spec machines - especially portables-would probably be at their limit.
I thought about it but thats what ultimately put me off the idea
Intriguing though.

I do the occasional slots, rebates and profiles with the tablesaw which is accurate enough most of the time.
If the fit is critical Ill rough cut it and leave enough meat to finish it with a router.
 
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You never know these days... 😎😉

I wouldn’t want to try a set myself. The weight of the 6mm flat blade is enough when compared to a standard blade. I'd need to check what the weight difference could be... Just out of curiosity you understand 😎
 
Accipiter said:
I understand that using *dado stacks* is not allowed in the UK - but willing to be advised differently. My understanding is that the width of the tablesaw insert plate is not wide enough for the dado stack.
Click to expand...
The law says precisely nothing about dado stacks. Workplace health and safety regulations do say, however, that table saws used in a workplace must have blade guards at all times, and must stop within 10 seconds of killing the power.

Now, if your saw isn't braked, or the brake isn't powerful enough to stop a heavy dado stack, that does mean you can't use one in a workplace setting. Similarly if the only guard you have attaches to the riving knife, then you can't make non-through cuts in a workplace setting because you can't have the guard fitted. If the saw is sufficiently braked, and you have an overhead guard, then you can use whatever stack you like. If you're at home, not at work, then workplace regulations don't apply and you can use whatever stack you like without a guard or a brake as well.

The problem for home use is purely economic: employers have to take measures to prevent employees from breaking those H&S regulations, and the simplest way to prevent them from fitting a dado stack that can't be braked in time is to buy a saw with a short arbor that can't physically fit such a stack. That means big customers in the European markets prefer short arbors, so that's what's easily available.
 
Thanks Stephen (@spb ) for the full explanation on the use of - or not - of dado stacks be it in the workplace or in a home/diy environment.

I can't say I've seen many advertised in the UK... or seen mention of their use over here in the UK - only in the USA videos on YouTube. There's reason why I thought they weren't 'legal' here in the UK. Thanks again 🙂👍
 
I think the joint we’re talking about in the uk is called a halving joint, probably not necessary though, as @duke says screw together with diagonal slats, possibly with a triangle of ply on the inside of each corner inside just to add a bit of stability.
 
Thanks all, that's been really helpful. I won't use my table saw. My mitre saw does do trench cuts so I've created a little jig which allows the centre of the blade to pass completely over the piece of wood. See attached. It seems to work and I finish off with a chisel.
Onwards and upwards.
Thanks again for your help.
 

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Excellent Kev 👍. Glad to see you've worked out the trench cut facility.

Which Evolution mitre-saw do you have? I've the R210 SMS... 'nice' little saw - but such a mess even with any extraction hose connected to it.
 
Accipiter said:
Excellent Kev 👍. Glad to see you've worked out the trench cut facility.

Which Evolution mitre-saw do you have? I've the R210 SMS... 'nice' little saw - but such a mess even with any extraction hose connected to it.
Click to expand...
Mine is the same model, in the garage/workshop I attach an old Dyson which seems to work well. Today though, being such great weather I moved it outside on the patio. Much easier to clean up outside. 24 cuts made, still got to tidy up with a chisel but happy to get that out of the way, see pic. Treating myself to a single malt, feeling smug.
 
Some fluctuations but hopefully will get three doors/gates that don't look massively different.
 

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Hi All, Now with improving weather I've managed to make three doors for my wheelie Bin store. The doors fasten with magnetic catches, not sure how long they will last but I don't like a lot of iron mongery on display. I have three handles to fit once it's painted.
Thank you for all your advice.
 

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kevcad said:
Hi All, Now with improving weather I've managed to make three doors for my wheelie Bin store. The doors fasten with magnetic catches, not sure how long they will last but I don't like a lot of iron mongery on display. I have three handles to fit once it's painted.
Thank you for all your advice.
Click to expand...
Well done!
 
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