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Single bevel blades

Steve Maskery

Steve Maskery

Old Oak
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I'm doing a lot of edgebanding at the moment and I have a trimmer. It looked great in the advert...
It's OK but it works better on melamine than it does on oak veneer and the edge is still a tad proud, it still needs a stroke or two with a blade. There is no adjustment on the trimmer. It is very nicely made but not very well designed, in practice.
So it struck me that it would be better to have a simple blade that was single bevelled that ran flush to the surface. A cranked chisel would do nicely, but I don't own one.
I know I could do it with a flush-trim router jig, I have one, but one tiny lapse in concentration and the whole panel is ruined. DAMHIKT.
So, does anyone know of a disposable single-bevel blade, about the size of a Stanley knife blade? I could mount it on the underside of a handle and trim by hand and it would be quieter, probably quicker and less prone to swearing.
S
 
Why not use a blade iron mounted on / screwed to a piece of wood? That's what I do when I don't have my preferred tool at hand.

This is my favourite tool for this type of job:


But I got this one from a friend and I have to admit it is quite nice:

www.banggood.com

Hand Planer Knife Trimming Edge Trimmer Aluminum Alloy HSS Blade Ergonomic Design Anti-Rust High Accuracy for Woodworking and Cabinet Making

Only US$12.99, buy best Hand Planer Knife Trimming Edge Trimmer Aluminum Alloy HSS Blade Ergonomic Design Anti-Rust High Accuracy for Woodworking and Cabinet Making sale online store at wholesale price.
www.banggood.com www.banggood.com

However, I also got a speed marker from Enjoywood from that same friend (I suppose also from that website) and I would advise you to stay far from the measuring tools they offer. It has a nonius, but it is useless as it is divided in exact millimetres. It also doesn't line up at zero when it should.
 
I’ve used a 1 1/4 chisel or the blade out of my block plane…..not ideal if there is lots to do.
If I use the trim router only have enough blade out to just trim the edge
 
They do exist Steve but seem to only be available in large quantities…

prime-tooling.co.uk

SINGLE BEVEL Heavy Duty Straight Blades, SINGLE BEVEL, 2 notch, MADE IN SHEFFIELD - pack of 100

Single Bevel Heavy Duty Straight Blades, SINGLE BEVEL Single Bevelled Heavy Duty Straight Blades, BEVELLED ONE SIDE Heavy duty Stanley knife blades, single bevel Stanley 1992 single bevel / bevelled one side Single bevel trimming blades JB92 single bevel / bevelled one side KB1003-MED-SB Medium...
prime-tooling.co.uk prime-tooling.co.uk
 
Thank you all.
I've realised, after seeing the Lee Valley link, that I have a 311(?) plane that can be set up as a bullnose plane. It might do the job, I'll have to try.
S
 
If you do Steve, do remember to skew the plane across the veneer you want to cut, but move it along in that skewed position.
For some reason, I found this was the only way, short of emptying my pocket, to work with those horrible "mahogany" veneer edging strips we were all using (and in bell bottoms while doing so). It has served me well down the years.
For utterly recalcitrant locked or variable grain, it is hard to beat your SHARPEST, broadest chisel, a steady hand, and Confusius-like patience. A gently side-to-side short cut, repeated, is where you want to be.
Sam
 
If you are just edging straight manageable panels the router table with a false fence lifted a few mm above the table works very well with either a straight cutter dialled in and not higher than needed or a bearing guided cutter for additional security. The downside is you have to edge in sequence.
 
If I have to do a lot of edge band trimming I switch to my MFK 700. It is perfect for such jobs. But most of the time I am too lazy and just use the plane I linked to.
 
I made this years ago, doesn’t get used much but useful sometimes.
Doubt it took me 30 minutes to make.
 

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I'll try that. The problem I have at the moment is that I can't move in my workshop, I have a kitchen in pieces. I can barely get to my RT, let alone use it.
 
I used to use various tools/ways for dressing non laminate edging's.
Sharp chisel
Dull chisel
Side of the chisel
Block plane set with a bias to the outer edge and creep in.
Coarse file
Fine file
Homemade dressing floats of coarse and fine abrasive glued to some aluminium extrusions.
Stiff painters palette knife honed square on the edges to scrape along
Cabinet/decorators scraper with just a filed square edge is very adept at shifting stuff when used flat on a surface.

Cheers, Andy
 
Dull chisel???
Do you use this like a scraper?
I have a Aldi chisel ( bought years ago when the steel quality was very good) that I use like an engineer uses a gasket scraper.
Picked up the idea from Bill Carter.
 
Had to do some edging in the workshop this morning, all my tools where on site so in an emergency I borrowed my wife’s Fiskas snap of blade knife, at the correct angle the edging cut beautifully. Finishes of with some 320 grit sandpaper.
 
I've done a bit today,on melamine edging, using the blade from my Lie-Neilsen low angle block plane. Nice blade.
The best result i've had so far. I shall definitely make a block handle a la Lurker. Excellent result. Not tried it on a wood veneer yet, but so far I ama happy bunny.
S
 
Steve Maskery said:
I've done a bit today,on melamine edging, using the blade from my Lie-Neilsen low angle block plane. Nice blade.
The best result i've had so far. I shall definitely make a block handle a la Lurker. Excellent result. Not tried it on a wood veneer yet, but so far I ama happy bunny.
S
Click to expand...
😆
You don’t remember where I pinched the idea from then?
 
You mean I had such a tool? I have no recollection!
Anyway, I've had a go today with the nice chunky blade from my LN and it worked a treat.
Definitely more than 15 years. Closer to 20 at least.

S
 
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