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Stool design.

JamesHow

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I'm building two three legged stools from offcut 1 1/2 timber. So quite stout!
Question is to I use through and wedged tenons or blind ones and do I scallop out the seat possibly with a champer on the outside too?
 
Well it’s fairly normal to have through tenons with wedges, probably desirable, even if they need pairing down a little after the thickness of the seat reduces due to shrinkage over time.
A chamfer around the edge stops it digging into the backs of your legs, (unless the stool is very low) and scooping out a depression makes for a more comfortable seat but isn’t essential.
Are you planning to span between the legs with stretchers?
Ian
 
Wedged tenons are likely to be more secure but it’s probably just as much a question of aesthetics.

As Ian has said no chamfer or shaping of the seat can be detrimental to how comfortable it is to sit on. IMHO a perfectly flat seat with sharp edges also looks a bit odd.

Are you using turned components or going down the stick route?

Cheers

Robert
 
Well it’s fairly normal to have through tenons with wedges, probably desirable, even if they need pairing down a little after the thickness of the seat reduces due to shrinkage over time.
A chamfer around the edge stops it digging into the backs of your legs, (unless the stool is very low) and scooping out a depression makes for a more comfortable seat but isn’t essential.
Are you planning to span between the legs with stretchers?
Ian
Yes I'm planning on thicker stretcher across the front legs (foot rest) and a thinner one from the middle of that one to the rear leg.
 
Wedged tenons are likely to be more secure but it’s probably just as much a question of aesthetics.

As Ian has said no chamfer or shaping of the seat can be detrimental to how comfortable it is to sit on. IMHO a perfectly flat seat with sharp edges also looks a bit odd.

Are you using turned components or going down the stick route?

Cheers

Robert
I'm making it from offcuts from the kitchen worktop I've made.
 
I would hollow out the seat first and use through tenons, that way you are getting the strongest joint, it also gives you chance to clean up any breakout one top.
This is one of my stools in oak with big oak wedges.


Pete
That's pretty much where I want to be.
Is it better having legs splayed or straight.

My legs are oval so I want them at 33 degrees from straight, which will make drilling the stretcher to fit harder!
 
Splayed legs improves stability, if the top is heavy it is particularly useful so you don't keep knocking it over. This one I made is a bit top-heavy could do with more splay on the legs; the top (elm) is quite thick in part because I didn't go for through tenons as I didn't want to detract from the elm. They are fox wedged instead.

stool210.jpg
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That's pretty much where I want to be.
Is it better having legs splayed or straight.

My legs are oval so I want them at 33 degrees from straight, which will make drilling the stretcher to fit harder!

I made a 3d frame from thin battens and plywood corners so I could place the seat in and using broom handles work out how much splay and the angles that I needed.

Stretcher hole angles can be worked out by putting a large elastic band round the legs and use a bevel gauge to copy the angle.

Oval legs? It will be hard to get a good fit unless you round the through tenons.

Pete
 
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