‘Stop’ butt hinges

[Stuart]

I’m looking for some stop butt hinges. Choice appears to be limited to either Brusso (bit ugly out the back) or the smart butt (eye wateringly expensive).

I’ve found the thread on here that shows both being installed and the smart hinge definitely looks more ‘professional’ and would be my choice if it weren’t for the cost. I need three pairs so over £200 for the polished stainless steel.

Is anyone aware of other stop butts that won’t break the bank?

And before anyone asks It’s got to be butts because the box shape won’t allow accurate routing for the jewellery box hinges.

 

[Woodbloke]

I can't recommend any but will probably buy the brass version (currently unavailable) of the SmartButt for SWIMBO's jewellery box when I get a round to making it...have you a linkie to the thread on their installation please? TIA. As it's going to be a fairly big box, a normal pair of SmartHinge's won't be robust enough - Rob

 

[Stuart]

Sorry Rob, it’s more of an impressions when fitted as opposed to a how to fit thread

Post in thread 'Box Hinges - First Impressions - Updated with install'

Apr 7, 2023

I got some time to do some hinge fitting today and done a box with the SmartButt and another with Brusso stop hinges.

These pictures perhaps explains better why the Brusso hinge has to protrude further than the SmartButt due to the square knuckle ...





Here are the smartButt hinges installed ...



... and here are the Brusso hinges for comparison ...



This is the angle at which the SmartButt hinge stays open ...



... and the Brusso for comparison ...

...

• Blackswanwood

 

[Blackswanwood]

Stuart, try Nichelocks (part of A E Squire) and Prokraft to see if they have anything that doesn’t break the bank. The quality won’t be the same as SmartHinges/butt however they are the Rolls Royce of hinges!

@Woodbloke Rob - I’ve found that even when Andrew C’s website shows sold out if you contact him direct he can normally find a pair or two!

 

[AndyT]

There is a simple method of getting the effect of a stop hinge while using ordinary butt hinges. You run a chamfer along the edge of the lid, and optionally a matching one along the top edge of the box. Then you set the hinge so that the barrel sits back within the thickness of the wood, inside the chamfer. That way, when you open the lid, the chamfers meet with the lid at the right sort of angle.

There is a risk of too much strain on the hinges, which could split the wood if handled roughly. A lot would depend on the strength of the wood used, its thickness, the length of the screws and the carefulness of the user, so it wouldn't be suitable in every case but I mention it just in case.

 

[AndyT]

Here's a diagram, from the Woodworker magazine book "Cabinet Construction" published about 1915:

 

[Woodbloke]

There is a simple method of getting the effect of a stop hinge while using ordinary butt hinges. You run a chamfer along the edge of the lid, and optionally a matching one along the top edge of the box. Then you set the hinge so that the barrel sits back within the thickness of the wood, inside the chamfer. That way, when you open the lid, the chamfers meet with the lid at the right sort of angle.

There is a risk of too much strain on the hinges, which could split the wood if handled roughly. A lot would depend on the strength of the wood used, its thickness, the length of the screws and the carefulness of the user, so it wouldn't be suitable in every case but I mention it just in case.

I've done that little trick years ago Andy and it does work quite well. The first proper box I ever made at a Barry Island summer school (1974) was hinged in the same way

@Woodbloke Rob - I’ve found that even when Andrew C’s website shows sold out if you contact him direct he can normally find a pair or two!

Very handy to know, thanks! - Rob

 

[Stuart]

Thank you Andy and Robert.

Niche don’t have the size I want (16mm is too small).

Andy, I did something similar years ago without great success. That drawing is a great illustration of the principle though.

It looks like I’m going to have to unchain my wallet and go for the smart butts. This (for me anyhow) is a special project. I’m making a box for each of my three children and I want it to be extra special if I can. I’ve made life more difficult for myself by going for convex sides so I haven’t got reference surfaces for the side rail hinges, even the butts are going to need extra care to fit.

 

[Eric the Viking]

I think Andy's "trick" from Cabinet Construction is probably better than those expensive hinges.

The force of holding the lid up against gravity is spread along the edge of box and lid, rather than an almost point load onto brass, particularly with the Brusso hinges. Yes, you still need to ensure the screws are strong and secure, as they're in slight tension when the lid is open, but they're only really under strain if the lid is pushed backwards. The bigger the box (and lid), with respect to the hinges, the more sensible Andy's trick looks.

And to my eye, it also looks much neater than hinges that project from the back of the box, too, and won't catch or scrape something else.