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a quick safety tip

Sorry, Bob, but I think it's rather pointless. Much, much better to simply fit a false fence to the existing fences.

Run the false fence all the way along both fences then cut through it with the saw blade. Not only have you blocked off the gap but provided support at the cutline to minimise breakout.
 
I agree thats the right thing to do, but I know I'm guilty of sometimes not bothering to do the right thing if I only have one cut to make.
I have looked around and discovered that particular tool is only suitable if the mitre saw has a very large base, or is in a workbench station. It wont work on mine because the stick is too long.
I shall play around with some scraps and see if I can make a shorter three leg version.
 
sunnybob":968btcsw said:
I agree thats the right thing to do, but I know I'm guilty of sometimes not bothering to do the right thing if I only have one cut to make......

But you keep it fitted ! You don't keep taking it on and off.
 
To take a slightly different view I think Bob has made a good point here.

I have the actual saw that he uses in the video. A Bosch GCM12. The tool will work on that saw irrespective of bench mounting, because it has a sliding table extender. Personally I don't want to add a ply fence to the saw because a) I use it a lot for mitre cuts and b) it obscures the face plate markings that I use and c) it alters the cut point of the blade and d) does not obviate the risk of the saw grabbing the small cut piece.

Hence I have a home made version of the tool shown in the video and it works very well, and is a safety aid. I frequently use my saw for taking very thin shavings off wood that I am adjusting to length and although it is unusual for me to want to cut short pieces, occasionally I do.

Adrian
 
I suppose the basic premise is that you don't get pink fleshy bits anywhere near a circular saw blade. The other thing is that you need to own one of those mitre saw jobbies and as I don't see the need for either a tablesaur or mitre saw thingie (basically a site tool that best used out the back of a Transit van :lol: ) the issue don't arise. To cut small bits, I use a bandsaw and then a shooting board to bring the piece exactly to size - Rob
 
I think it depends what you are used to. I use the mitre saw a lot, probably my most used power tool as it is so quick and very accurate. I can take a half a mm shaving off with it, which I accept a could do with a shooting board.

The point here though is that there are times when you want to cut a small piece and for those of us who do use a MS the temptation is to go to that tool. The video shows that people do try to hold small pieces very close to the spinning blade and usually get away with it, but it is also true that the blade can snatch the wood and drag your hand inwards in an instant.

I also do depth stopped trenching cuts with mine, and the safety tool makes them a bit easier and safer as the work is held down safely close to the blade (beyond the reach of the clamps).

I need my fingers to play music, so a simple, cheap, safety tool as recommended by Bob seems helpful to me.
It's a personal choice though and each to our own preference.
 
I think it is horses for courses. A false fence is an excellent solution, but can be a pain and sometimes get in the way. An open gap is risky for small parts for the reasons pointed out. For many people, this constitutes a useable solution. It keeps fingers away from the blade and doesn't, as far as I can see, increase any other sort of risk into the operation.
Pity there is zero stock anywhere in the world!
S
 
In stock at Wood Workers Workshop. I just bought one as I think it is better than my home made version.
 
I've had one of these for a number of years - the older version with a wooden handle. It doesn't get used much (I'll work out a clamp based arrangement whenever possible and use sacrificial fences most of the time) but there are occasions where it's come in very :eusa-dance: handy :eusa-dance: so it lives within easy reach of the saw.

You don't need to have a large enough bed for it when you have a belly (any size) as you can use that as a third point of contact for the handle. I see that as being relatively safe as, should the blade catch and yank the piece in, it's pulling the stick away from you - assuming you're not standing in some oddball position you really couldn't do without great effort.
 
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