• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

A small project with a difficult joint

Brilliant!

I'd never have guessed, but that's a really good excuse for the effort you've put into it.

Two observations spring to mind from this entertaining thread. One is that, although I will never get a 3D printer, it's good to hang around with talented folk who find so many uses for them.

The other is that I only have eight of the same books - but I'm sure there are some more overlaps in our libraries that don't fit!
 
Yes, as it is. Perhaps put your logo on both sides of the wedge so it can be seen, manufacturers don’t hide their names!
That joint turned out very well indeed Al, bit surprised you don’t put glue on all of the Dovetails though, it’s bound to be stronger, I saw a test of end grain gluing and there wasn’t much difference really.
Ian
 
AndyT said:
Brilliant!

I'd never have guessed, but that's a really good excuse for the effort you've put into it.

Two observations spring to mind from this entertaining thread. One is that, although I will never get a 3D printer, it's good to hang around with talented folk who find so many uses for them.

The other is that I only have eight of the same books - but I'm sure there are some more overlaps in our libraries that don't fit!
Click to expand...

Thanks Andy. Yes I'm sure there are plenty of other one we've both got (including the two you gave me that I seem to recall you had two copies of!).

I suspect there will be less overlap if/when I post a photo of the books that'll be on there more permanently :)
 
Cabinetman said:
Yes, as it is.
Click to expand...

Thanks (that definitely makes it easier!

Cabinetman said:
Perhaps put your logo on both sides of the wedge so it can be seen, manufacturers don’t hide their names!
Click to expand...

Hmm, interesting thought. I'll ponder on that one.

Cabinetman said:
That joint turned out very well indeed Al, bit surprised you don’t put glue on all of the Dovetails though, it’s bound to be stronger, I saw a test of end grain gluing and there wasn’t much difference really.
Click to expand...

I imagine it would help a bit, but I (obviously) have no idea how much. I used to slather glue everywhere I could see but then watched two of David Charlesworth's videos (the drawer making one & the secret mitre dovetail one) and he's much more picky about where the glue goes, with the aim being that all the face grain contacting surfaces are glued but no glue gets squeezed out on the inside of the joint. Ever since I watched them I've tended to do the same with dovetails. They haven't come apart yet!

He goes slightly further than I do by only gluing the top 2/3rds of the pins and with slightly watered down glue (this is all from memory, so take with a pinch of salt). The premise is that the glue in the top 2/3rds gets pushed down (by the tail) to cover the bottom bit. I sometimes do the top 2/3rds thing but have never gone as far as watering down the glue.
 
Great little project, Al, and a superb write-up as always.

I put glue in the endgrain part of a joint, not with any great care, and not because it provides strength. I do it because it can act as a gap filler, and thus reduce any room for movement should the joint ever come under any strain.
 
Mike G said:
Great little project, Al, and a superb write-up as always.
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Thanks Mike

Mike G said:
I put glue in the endgrain part of a joint, not with any great care, and not because it provides strength. I do it because it can act as a gap filler, and thus reduce any room for movement should the joint ever come under any strain.
Click to expand...
The gap filling thing is an interesting thought and one I don't think I would have considered.

Not that my woodwork ever has any gaps of course, no sir! 🥸🤥🤣
 
Incidentally, one of the things I really like about only putting glue on the sides of tails & pins is how much quicker it is. For gluing a box together it only takes a few seconds to do each board & I find the overall process less stressful as a result.

I suspect I'd still slather it on willy-nilly for anything taking a really high load but it's nice doing the bare minimum for lighter duty things.
 
Dr.Al said:
Incidentally, one of the things I really like about only putting glue on the sides of tails & pins is how much quicker it is. For gluing a box together it only takes a few seconds to do each board & I find the overall process less stressful as a result.

I suspect I'd still slather it on willy-nilly for anything taking a really high load but it's nice doing the bare minimum for lighter duty things.
Click to expand...
All I ever do now is to lightly smear the tails n'pins...sometimes just the tails. If the joints fit well that's really all you need to do; I do the same for dominos; just a very light smear and even then it's amazing how much 'squeeze out' there is. I don't understand the concept of 'gap filling':ROFLMAO: - Rob
 
AndyP said:
Excellent Al and a novel approach to a book rack.
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Agreed and an unusual and effective solution for a book rack. If I could offer one idea and that's to make the wedges slightly less chunky, say 12mm where they pass through the tenon? - Rob
 
Woodbloke said:
Agreed and an unusual and effective solution for a book rack. If I could offer one idea and that's to make the wedges slightly less chunky, say 12mm where they pass through the tenon?
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I think it's a bit late to change that now, but thanks for the suggestion anyway.

Woodbloke said:
Also, what's the purpose of the shovetails on the offset vertical please...unless I've missed somat? - Rob
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Purely decorative. I wanted something to add a bit of interest to the top of the upright (rather than just having a flat top which might look a bit dull) and since I'd hidden the dovetails in the mitre joint I thought I'd put some on display up top instead.
 
Dr.Al said:
I think it's a bit late to change that now, but thanks for the suggestion anyway.
Click to expand...
Something to bear in mind for the next time you use a tusk tenon construction. I've done a coupla projects with this sort of joint and in my very 'umble opinion, they look more effective if they're a bit 'slimline' and in a contrasting accent timber, say a bit of ebony of ABW. None the less, the project as shown in the pics is a gud'n and your colleagues at work should be suitably impressed:D - Rob
 
Wow, great work! Such a cool joint. The only hidden joinery i have tried is the one on Japanese shoji screen corners. I made 3 practice joints before getting one that closed up and looked decent
 
If anyone's interested in David Charlesworth's approach to gluing, I've found that a relevant extract from one of his videos is on youtube. I couldn't find a youtube-available similar extract of the drawer making one (which goes into a bit more detail of his justification if memory serves me correctly), but it gives the general idea:

 
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