Any reason not to use sanding sealer ?

[RogerS]

Putting an oak shelf into this window area.



I've done a trial finish on three scrap pieces - Chestnut Microcrystalline Finish, Polyx raw and Sanding Sealer.

Our preference is for Sanding Sealer as it doesn't mess up the inherent beauty of simple, plain oak. Any reasons NOT to use it 'as is' with no further coatings of anything else ?

Please note....we have not painted our walls that colour...just Samsung's phones awful camera.

 

[Woodbloke]

Putting an oak shelf into this window area.



I've done a trial finish on three scrap pieces - Chestnut Microcrystalline Finish, Polyx raw and Sanding Sealer.

Our preference is for Sanding Sealer as it doesn't mess up the inherent beauty of simple, plain oak. Any reasons NOT to use it 'as is' with no further coatings of anything else ?

Sanding sealer is great stuff Rog (I use it all the time on the lathe for finishing) but it's not particularly durable, especially if bums are going to be parked on the oak. I'd be inclined to use it as a first coat and then apply somat over the top to resist wear; my choice would be Osmo PolyX, matt or satin which as a floor finish :shock: is just about bullet proof - Rob

 

[Cabinetman]

Also if you get any condensation water from the window it won’t survive it.
Almost anything will bleach in the daylight from the window as well.
Ian

 

[RogerS]

Thanks chaps.

Good point re possible wear, Rob, but the height is far too high for anyone to leap up and deposit theeir derriere so I don't think that's going to be an issue.

Two more good points, Ian, but the glazing is (a) double-glazed and the area is (i) extremly large and (ii) very airy. The window has been in for a couple of years now and never any condensation.

It is North facing and we never get any direct sunshine there. Don't really get any light there TBH

 

[Lurker]

I’m with Rob on this.
Sanding sealer and a denib then Osmo.
Or you could use a wax instead of Osmo, I like wood wax 22

 

[Mike Jordan]

One coat of celullose sanding sealer followed by two coats of Ronseal polyurethane satin interior varnish is my favourite finish. It gets a very light sand and is then waxed.
The first photo of a window board of a south facing window which fad been in use for more than twenty five years. It has faded but not to badly.. The writing bureau is about the same age and gets a lot of sun, the chest of drawers sees no direct sun and probably a little darker in colour.

 

[AJB Temple]

If you don't want it to look glossy or "finished" then Osmo Raw is pretty good and very durable. It has a slight white pigment which is barely visible on oak as long as you are very sparing with application. It withstands water, wine, coffee cup rings etc. Can finish dead flat or slight lustre.

 

[AndyT]

When I made our new bed, in ash, I wanted to keep the pale look. I tried out all the finishes I had in the cupboard and did a UV test in a window. There was a fair bit of discussion about it on the second page, here
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6588&start=25#p107381

I ended up using a Polyvine water based polyurethane which is still looking good, with no yellowing or deterioration. Elsewhere I've used it over sanding sealer on pine but I just used it straight on the bare wood for the bed.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've never seen the logic in applying something specifically made and intended to be abraded off as a finish.

 

[Mike G]

I've never seen the logic in applying something specifically made and intended to be abraded off as a finish.

It's just shellac, and shellac has been used as a finish for centuries.

 

[AndyT]

I've never seen the logic in applying something specifically made and intended to be abraded off as a finish.

I think I have seen the explanation that you use it on woods where the surface is a bit soft or wooly, or where the growth pattern is so irregular that you can't sand with all the grain.

It reinforces the fibres and hardens them so the abrasive can cut across them cleanly, rather than just plucking bits out of the surface.

 

[RogerS]

Many thanks all for the input.

So here's a wee exercise. Below are four pieces cut from the same board. In daylight and indoor lighting.

They have been finished using four different finishes which are :

1 - Liberon Special Pale French Polish
2 - Sanding Sealer
3 - Chestnut Microcrystalline Wax
4 - Polyx Raw

As you can see, different result but which is which ? Anyone like to have a go ?

 

[Malc2098]

Just to throw in my there 'a'pence…

I understand sanding sealer to seal open pores prior to the application of finishes, which benefits from sanding of the surface, leaving the pores filled, ready for finishing.

In my sphere, spruce insrtument tops are soft and open pored. Sanding sealer saves me £s of nitro-cellulose lacquer.

Also, e.g., if using a CA glue for purfling or binding, a coat of sanding sealer assists bonding to those open pored surfaces, whereas if using a water based glue, no sealer is required.