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AP Chest DUN

Woodbloke

Woodbloke

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The next project is going to be an Alan Peters chest first made for Kirkham House in Paignton, Devon in 1980.

IMG_2996.jpg

AP did his in Oak, mine will be in Olive Ash of which I've got a 'bit' :eusa-whistle: and I'll use a turned Bog Oak handle and stand, with a CoL panelled bottom.

Thoughts on the what appears to be a butted corner though on the bottom left pic...dowels??

This one could be a bit tricky :D - Rob
 
Andyp":1xu6l232 said:
Isn't that what biscuits are for Rob?
Click to expand...
That's the other option Andy, but I wonder what AP used in 1980 when there probably weren't any biscuiters around? I'm currently thinking of using dowels but a biscuit would also do the job.

IMG_2997.jpg

I've already got most of the Olive Ash ruffed out bar one short side - Rob
 
Andyp":3vwn8444 said:
According to Wiki and Lamello biscuits jointers have been around since the mid 50’s
Click to expand...

:eusa-doh: :eusa-doh: I should have known that, I did a piece on them when I was a Ax - Rob
 
Looking at the construction of the main chest, could anyone hazard a guess as to how AP built it? I think it's been built up in rectangular layers from the base up, two long and two short sides one layer at a time. To hide the obvious joint line discrepancies on the short end, there seems to be a chamfer detail between the boards.
It's been doing my head in over the last couple of days to try and work out how it was done and this seems to be the easiest way...anything else is convoluted and really hard :evil: . As yet I haven't got a scoobies as to how I'm going to do the lid...also will it need a stay(s)? - Rob
 
Try as I may, I really can't see any virtue in this design. It's half piratical chest and half apple box joinery.
For me the question is more like why did AP make it not how :lol:
Was it a characteristic of his work to make copying a challenge perhaps?
Trying to be positive:-
I think if i were to make it, layers would be the way to go and I think I'd have alternate staves of the ends over long for a more symmetrical log cabin look to the corners and have the staves all the same thickness.
As for the domed lid, a few sums based on the number of staves and the radius required will give the chamfer angle - a bit like my polyagonal coopered waste bins last year.
If you want the curve of the lid to be part of an elipse rather than a circle then different sums are needed.

Good luck with the project Rob - If anyone can pull it off you can with your meticulous attention to details. I will be watching with interest.

Bob
 
9fingers":38qdvjuh said:
Try as I may, I really can't see any virtue in this design. It's half piratical chest and half apple box joinery.
For me the question is more like why did AP make it not how :lol:
Was it a characteristic of his work to make copying a challenge perhaps?
Trying to be positive:-
I think if i were to make it, layers would be the way to go and I think I'd have alternate staves of the ends over long for a more symmetrical log cabin look to the corners and have the staves all the same thickness.
As for the domed lid, a few sums based on the number of staves and the radius required will give the chamfer angle - a bit like my polyagonal coopered waste bins last year.
If you want the curve of the lid to be part of an elipse rather than a circle then different sums are needed.

Good luck with the project Rob - If anyone can pull it off you can with your meticulous attention to details. I will be watching with interest.

Bob
Click to expand...
Thanks Bob. I spent virtually a whole day looking at wooden chests on Pinterest and there was absolutely nothing there that piqued my interest, zip, nowt, nuffink...very 'same old, same old'. I also looked at Scandi, mid century stuff for a bit of inspiration but that was even more boring; then I remembered that AP had shown a couple in his book and when I saw the one shown above I knew that was what I would make.
If you look at the pictures it soon becomes apparent that it's almost impossible (or really, really convoluted) to do it in any way other than by four layers, starting from the bottom up.

What do you reckon on a stay, or a pair of? Hinges also need to be pretty heavy duty; I reckon three 75mm brass butts should do the job - Rob
 
Did you say how big it will be?

Certainly I'd fit some sort of stay to limit the lid travel to before the point then lid will try and tear out the hinges.
If young fingers are likely to get near it then a gas spring will offer protection and correctly fitted will also limit lid travel. Either one for short chest or a pair on a longer jobby.

Bob
 
9fingers":25704ho7 said:
Did you say how big it will be?

Certainly I'd fit some sort of stay to limit the lid travel to before the point then lid will try and tear out the hinges.
If young fingers are likely to get near it then a gas spring will offer protection and correctly fitted will also limit lid travel. Either one for short chest or a pair on a longer jobby.

Bob
Click to expand...
Each of those long boards are roughly 1.15m x12cm and the short ones are 50cm so if you do the sums, it's going to pretty chunky when it's dun n'dusted. I thought a couple of stays sounded about par but I'm not sure about gas struts?...have you got a linkie handy for decent quality struts? Top quality, solid brass, heavy duty stays that I looked at the other day were a smidge pricy :shock:. Think £60>100....each! :shock: - Rob
 
I bought some from eBay and very cheap too:

ea30e2673f9b948411fbc6cdc66b796a.jpg


But sadly not in brass.

Rod
 
Rod":1o4tew9n said:
I bought some from eBay and very cheap too:

ea30e2673f9b948411fbc6cdc66b796a.jpg


But sadly not in brass.

Rod
Click to expand...
That's the type of thing I'm going to be after Rod, but I don't think they're available in brass. I looked at the EH Savill site for traditional, heavy duty stays and came up with these but at £80 each :shock: plus delivery I think I'm going to pass - Rob
 
Have a look on Hafele Rob. They have EVERYTHING on there.

You have to buy bulk but I found a guy whose business is placing bulk orders on behalf of others (doesn’t have to be bulk of same item just minimum order value) so he takes orders and when big enough places them then shops to you. Takes a little linger but was only a week for me to receive my stuff.
 
TrimTheKing":3c7d6j85 said:
Have a look on Hafele Rob. They have EVERYTHING on there.

You have to buy bulk but I found a guy whose business is placing bulk orders on behalf of others (doesn’t have to be bulk of same item just minimum order value) so he takes orders and when big enough places them then shops to you. Takes a little linger but was only a week for me to receive my stuff.
Click to expand...

TrimTheKing":3c7d6j85 said:
Just had a search. They were called Chippys mate but they’ve expanded now and you can find them at https://www.affordabledreambedrooms.co.uk/contact-page/

Don’t know whether they still do the Hafele provision but you could always ask.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark; very useful. I know Hafele only supply to the trade, but I know a couple of blokes who might be able to help.

Edit - just sent them a message to see if they can supply gas struts - Rob
 
Woodster":1cj21ugh said:
Looking good. How does it compare to the Anarchist's tool chest?
Click to expand...
Ever so slightly more up market :eusa-whistle:

Edit: the base won't be nailed on either - Rob
 
While the finish on the Wine Tables was curing, I've been chuntering on with this AP chest, which appears to be slightly larger than I anticipated. I pondered on a couple of ways of doing the corner joints, one of which was doweling but it was very difficult to exactly line up the corners, so in the end I opted for a very AP style of jointing...

IMG_3087.jpg

...using home brewed ply 'biscuits' (made by gluing together three layers of aeroply). The pic shows a mock up in pine and they were easy enough to cut on the router table between fixed 'stops'

I also pondered on using dominos to locate the four tiers of the main chest, but in the end went for biscuits...

IMG_3088.jpg

...which again was dead easy. All four tiers went together really well....

IMG_3074.jpg

...but I had (of necessity) to ensure that ALL the various bits were shot in to exactly the right length as any discrepancy would mean that the various components wouldn't fit one on top of the other.

So how do you shoot in the sides so that each is identical?

Easy peasy; shoot one in to the correct size, label with a big 'M' (for master) and let your fingers do the measuring. Using your fingertips do determine exact and identical lengths is without question THE most accurate method that I've ever come across - Rob
 
Looking like a precision job as ever Rob

Totally agree on the touch method of sizing parts.
My shooting-in is of course done on a meticulously set up table saw which gives a finish-ready surface on end grain and the merest swipe of abrasive with the grain.
Once the stops are set then every piece will pass the touch test and no nasty shavings on the floor :lol:

Bob
 
Dun n' dusted...

IMG_3315.jpg

Lid open, showing a small Ebony butterfly to hold a tiny crack in that particular piece of wood.

IMG_3320.jpg

End detail

IMG_3319.jpg

IMG_3317.jpg

Dovetailed sliding tray with panelled CofL base, as has the main chest.

IMG_3313.jpg

One of the chunky Bog Oak feet. Finished with Polyvine Acrylic Wax topped off with Renaissance Wax - Rob
 
9fingers":ni9l0kjy said:
I'm sorry to say those "ears" would drive me up the wall. I'd want to get in on the tablesaw pronto and fix them :lol:

However, beautifully executed as always Rob.

Bob
Click to expand...
Needed to avoid the 'short grain' in the construction, (see earlier in the thread) but tbh they don't bother me and I think they add something to the overall simplicity of the chest...but what quite they add I'm not sure :D

Malc2098":ni9l0kjy said:
Nice. I like ears - Japaneseyish.
Click to expand...

Possibly Malc. Alan Peters was a big fan of Far Eastern furniture, especially from North Korea but not so much from Japan, where there appears to be little contemporary stuff of note and what there is that I've seen leans very much on the 'murrican tradition of big slabby, 'live edge' pieces. That said, I've seen some interesting work from some modern Japanese designers and makers in the Scandinavian mould - Rob
 
Woodbloke":24xd8qv1 said:
You chaps do know how to upset a bloke :lol: - Rob
Click to expand...

That advert makes me feel guilty. I’ve got a special Guinness edition jar sent to me in 2007. Still
Dip in occasionally and it still tastes great.

The trunk looks great too.
 
Woodbloke":q8z3rbtu said:
You chaps do know how to upset a bloke :lol: - Rob
Click to expand...

I love the stuff and certainly do not hate your chest. What little woodworking skils I have are enough to appreciate the workmanship, skill, and attention to detail that goes into all your work. The piece is unique. Yours and the Alan Peters original are probably the only ones in existence. I certainly cant find anything else like it.

Can you explain your short grain comment and how the ears help?
 
Andyp":2jyys4jz said:
Woodbloke":2jyys4jz said:
You chaps do know how to upset a bloke :lol: - Rob
Click to expand...

I love the stuff and certainly do not hate your chest. What little woodworking skils I have are enough to appreciate the workmanship, skill, and attention to detail that goes into all your work. The piece is unique. Yours and the Alan Peters original are probably the only ones in existence. I certainly cant find anything else like it.

Can you explain your short grain comment and how the ears help?
Click to expand...
Thanks Andy and the rest of you chaps; appreciated. This image lifted from page 1 of this thread shows the construction at the corners using ply inserts, which is a typical AP method of building stuff:

IMG_3087.jpg

It's a mock up in pine, but the bit with the ply insert would have a tendency to break out (just in front of the ply in the pic) if it were under stress. On the actual job, this piece of wood has been extended by adding the 20mm 'ears', thus reducing the possibility of any break-out due to short grain - Rob
 
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