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Band saw tension

I don’t bother detensioning narrow blades (1” and under) but I will detension wide blades as the tension on those is quite extreme and can crack the blades if left idle for too long under tension.
 
That must be a big BS to take 1”. My maximum is half inch, although In theory I could use bigger.
 
I have a Laguna 14/12. It has a de-tensioning lever, which makes it simple to do. So I try to remember to do it after each use.

What is less easy is to remember to re-tension it before pressing on. :oops: (Only the once, mind you.)
 
Lurker":2ddvkpvs said:
That must be a big BS to take 1”. My maximum is half inch, although In theory I could use bigger.
Click to expand...

The maximum is 2” on the Wadkin PBR, which is what I use with a 1TPI blade for heavier resawing.
 
Nope. Most of the time my 18" saw just has a half inch blade on it.
 
On my big wood bandsaw yes (but it's got a lever tension arm, so it's really quick and easy). On the small horizontal metal bandsaw no (as it hasn't got a lever tension arm and I'm lazy).
 
As per manufacturer’s instructions I take the tension off the blade after use, it only takes a few seconds.
 
When I know I'm not going to be using it for several weeks, yes. Otherwise no.
 
When I got my first, I did because I was told to. I made a little sign to hang on the guides saying "4 turns loose" to remind me.
Then I got lazy. :o
Havent de tensioned a blade in over 8 years now. 8-)
 
On my big Ax Industrial bandsaw I do as it's used for deep sawing under max tension, even with a 3tpi, 12mm blade. My smaller Ax one with a 10mm blade doesn't get de-tensioned - Rob
 
I had a Wadkin BZB for years, never de tensioned the blade and never had a problem, back then I didn't even know it was a thing.

I've had a Jet for a year or two now and the top tyre deformed and came loose, managed to sort it out with some fix-all but wondered if that was down to leaving it tensioned and unused for a while? I now take the tension off when I leave the shop (if I remember), it's got a quick release lever so no hassle, I have also started leaving the top door open to remind me........ :eusa-doh:
 
Yes.

I have a small, old SIP, and I've changed the main wheel bearings for better ones.

I've noticed if I forget and leave it tensioned but not moved for a few weeks the bearings are noticeably noisier on startup. My _guess_ is that the blade itself also adapts to the tension a bit, meaning it has a 'memory' of being stopped in that one position - doesn't help either bearing life or accuracy.

I can run up to 5/8" for resawing, but usually go no bigger than 3/8". It's got harder to set up as it's got older, and I suspect the frame itself is probably sagging a bit. The tensioner is pretty worn, too (was never a good design), and probably needs a rebuild, but the main issue is that the frame itself tends to bow down towards the table, meaning the blade tilts slightly.

So no cast iron proof (Ow!), but strong suspicions that detensioning helps accuracy and longevity. I'm fairly certain that on big Stenners, etc., there are mechanics to do this easily. I don't think they take the tension off completely though. I'm sure there was someone who felled and dimensioned lumber either around here or t'other place, who can confirm/refute this. They definitely have a coil spring arrangement for tension, so it's nothing like the crude leadscrew arrangement of hobbyist saws like mine*.

E.

*Mine does have a coil spring, but the mechanism is really not very clever, and doesn't work very well. It might even be getting tired, so that might be a useful maintenance replacement.
 
Like most of the tools in my workshop my bandsaw, INCA 260, gets used infrequently, perhaps many weeks between uses. If I use it today and know that I will use it again tomorrow I will not release the tension. On the other hand I will will release the tension after most jobs. I have a wooden sign that hangs over the bandsaw case that says “CHECK TENSION”.
Again because it can be many weeks between each use a quick check inside the cabinet for dust build up, blade alignement, blade guides etc is no bad thing.
 
I wonder if Steve now takes the tension off when he’s not using his bandsaw. I ask as there seemed to me at least a possibility than not doing so damaged the tensioner on his machine?

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=6092
 
I release the tension after use, its part of my process when clearing up at the end of the day.
 
Welcome to the forum Suggs,
If you have a moment why not tell us a bit about yourself in the Welcome (Introductions) board.
 
Woodster":2e1ubhh7 said:
I wonder if Steve now takes the tension off when he’s not using his bandsaw. I ask as there seemed to me at least a possibility than not doing so damaged the tensioner on his machine?

http://thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=6092
Click to expand...
Perhaps Ishould, but I still don't. Pete's part will hold up to the most extreme stress you could ever put it through. It's very impressive and I never have the urge to give it a rest. It's fantastic.

You could sell those, Pete, you really could.

S
 
Steve Maskery":2eenpk0l said:
Woodster":2eenpk0l said:
I wonder if Steve now takes the tension off when he’s not using his bandsaw. I ask as there seemed to me at least a possibility than not doing so damaged the tensioner on his machine?
Click to expand...
Perhaps I should, but I still don't. Pete's part will hold up to the most extreme stress you could ever put it through. It's very impressive and I never have the urge to give it a rest.
Click to expand...

That’s not to say something else won’t give way next time. That part just happened to be the weakest link. ;)

Who knows, perhaps that part is designed to fail in case folks don’t follow the instructions in the manual:


IMG-6781.jpg



.
 
Years ago I would religiously release the tension. I stopped doing so and have not noted any issues: the tyres do not deform, and the blades have not stretched. A test of the latter is that they fo not lose tension.

Bandsaw is a Hammer N4400 (18”), and blades used are either a 12mm 3tpi bimetal (general purposes), or a 1” Lenox Woodmaster CT (carbide) for re-sawing.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
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