Bandsaw

[Dr.Al]

I'm planning to buy a bandsaw (and I've even bought Steve Maskery's video tutorial on how to use them, so I must be serious ). I've been spending an enormous amount of time recently resawing boards by hand and, quite frankly, I'm kinda fed up with it. Even with two different kerfing saws (one made out of wood and one made with a #55), it's still a huge amount of effort and not especially enjoyable. One week recently I spent every single evening after work doing nothing but resawing and it felt like a bit of a waste of my free time.

The problem arises from the fact I don't really have space for a bandsaw . I'd ideally like to buy a bandsaw that will last me for several decades rather than one I grow out of in a few years. That probably means big and sturdy and the space in my workshop is limited to say the least. On a positive note, I've become quite adept over the years at finding ways to rearrange everything to get one more thing in and I'm willing to go to quite substantial lengths if it'll get me a bandsaw! I'm quite comfortable with the idea of having it on wheels (e.g. these) and moving it whenever I want to use it (I already do this with my thicknesser as shown in this linked image).

Having read reviews, I'm wondering about the Record BS400 :eusa-think: . It's definitely on the bigger end of the size range (which makes fitting it into my garage harder) and on the heavy side (which is going to make getting it up the rough and relatively steep track to my garage an interesting challenge), but it feels like something that would last me a long time. Note that I'm very open to suggestions of alternatives (although I don't want to go much more spendy than that - it's already a little wince-worthy!).

The dimensions listed on the Record website make it sound huge (630 x 850 x 1800 mm) and I'm pretty sure I'm going to struggle to find a space for that. However, looking at the images, it's obviously not a simple cuboid of those dimensions and only sticks out in certain places (in particular the table).

Would anyone on here who has one of these bandsaws (or something that you know is a similar size) be willing to help me with some more detailed dimensions? I was thinking that I could knock up a "space model" out of cardboard or whatever to get a feel for what it would be like when parked "out of the way" in the garage.

 

[Woodster]

If you’re after a Bandsaw that size have a look to see if there are any second hand Startrite bandsaws around. They seem to be better built than many modern ones. Something like an old 351/352 maybe? Good luck with your quest.

 

[Lurker]

With your engineering skills, I would have thought that you would relish the prospect of buying a decent second hand machine and fettling it to the Nth degree.
If you put it on wheels the space issue is minised.

I think (don’t know) the records suit someone who needs a decent recent saw that works when you get it home.

I would add kity (because I am pleased with my third hand machine) to your shopping list.

Keep an eye on the bay etc for a local machine as cash & collect is going to be substantially cheaper.

 

[Cabinetman]

If you’re after a Bandsaw that size have a look to see if there are any second hand Startrite bandsaws around. They seem to be better built than many modern ones. Something like an old 351/352 maybe? Good luck with your quest.

Yes can recommend Startrite 352, I bought a s/h one 10 years ago - no trouble whatsoever, from memory it has a two ft square footprint? Ian

 

[Dr.Al]

If you’re after a Bandsaw that size...

I'm not absolutely set on one that size, I just want to be sure I'm not going to grow out of it any time soon. I can see my main use of it being resawing so I think the most important things to look at are:

1. Max. depth of cut
2. Motor power
3. How strong the frame is (probably indicated by weight)

However, I might be wrong (and maybe I'll learn more when I have time to watch Steve's video ) and I'm open to other suggestions.

I don't think I've got any bits of wood at the moment that are bigger than about 200 mm, so maybe a 300 mm depth of cut is excessive...

...have a look to see if there are any second hand Startrite bandsaws around. They seem to be better built than many modern ones. Something like an old 351/352 maybe? Good luck with your quest.

With your engineering skills, I would have thought that you would relish the prospect of buying a decent second hand machine and fettling it to the Nth degree.

Thanks both. I have wondered about second hand ones and I've got a saved ebay search for bandsaws within 50 miles (not much out there at the moment). To be honest though, I prefer making stuff (whether it be with metal or wood) over fettling some old abused machine to try to get it to work properly, so I'm not sure how much I fancy a project machine.

If you put it on wheels the space issue is minised.

To some degree, yes, but only as long as I can physically fit it in somewhere and still be able to walk around it to get to the lathe etc. If the bandsaw were a cuboid of the dimensions listed on the website I don't think I'd be able to park it out of the way at all without something else coming out of the garage, hence wanting a better idea of the real shape of the machine.

 

[Dr.Al]

If you’re after a Bandsaw that size have a look to see if there are any second hand Startrite bandsaws around. They seem to be better built than many modern ones. Something like an old 351/352 maybe? Good luck with your quest.

Yes can recommend Startrite 352, I bought a s/h one 10 years ago - no trouble whatsoever, from memory it has a two ft square footprint? Ian

I don't suppose you'd be willing to measure it in a bit more detail would you? I really am very tight for space...

 

[Lurker]

Kity 315.
The frame based around a 100mm steel tube
Depth of cut 210mm never sawn anything more than about 160 so far as I remember.

Footprint 630x460

Just a guess, but I think that’s around a standard sort of size, any bigger you are moving into an industrial environment and generally 3 phase.

 

[Dr.Al]

Kity 315.
The frame based around a 100mm steel tube
Depth of cut 210mm never sawn anything more than about 160 so far as I remember.

Does it have any other names? I've just been searching for "Kity 315" and "Kity 315 bandsaw", but nothing seems to be coming up.

Footprint 630x460

That sounds a bit more civilised, although dimensions at about 1 metre from the ground will have an effect as well as the actual footprint. For example, if the table top is 900 mm from the ground, I might be able to slide the table under the corner of my bench when the bandsaw isn't in use, giving me a bit more space: every little helps :lol: . It's these sorts of things I'll probably have to do to squeeze a bandsaw in, hence wanting to get a better idea of the overall shape.

Just a guess, but I think that’s around a standard sort of size, any bigger you are moving into an industrial environment and generally 3 phase.

Thanks, that's good to know. I'd probably prefer to avoid 3 phase, although it's not the end of the world. If it's anything like metalworking lathes, 3 phase machines tend to be quite a lot cheaper and it's not that expensive to add an inverter (especially if the motor's rewireable as star-delta).

 

[Eric the Viking]

If funds permitted I, too, would be playing 'hunt the Startrite'. The resaw height is important, especially as mine is little more thsn 7" or 8"

Some thoughts:

• The frame on my supposedly trade quality SIP bends when tensioning anything over about 1/2", throwing the geometry out of whack. There are workarounds, but they involve a lot of farting about. You'd be right to look for something robust.
  
• Hobby/small trade bandsaws aren't mechanically complex - most problems can be solved with good bearings and tyres, Tuffsaws blades, and a bit of care in setup. I'd go for good secondhand over expensive-and-new any day.
  
• It's well worth putting wheels on the stand. I rarely resaw, but when I do it's often fairly long lengths. I have the saw next to the side door of the garage, so I can quickly twist it to feed stock through and out of the door. If you bank on parking and using it in exactly the same spot you'll end up frustrated.
  
• Getting it into the shop: just removing everything easily removed would greatly reduce the weight. That would probably be the table, doors and wheels, and possibly the motor if necessary. As I said they are not complex machines and quick to reassemble (the SIP has a single 8mm bolt holding the table in place, for example).
  
• Finally, those with a single DX port at the bottom of the lower wheel compartment will have rubbish dust extraction, almost guaranteed. The previous owner of mine organised a vacuum pickup tube, which wrapped round the blade right underneath the table. It worked brilliantly, letting very little dust get into the lower compartment. I'm re-doing it presently as I changed the vacuum cleaner hoses around recently (they all use Numatic/Henry ones now), but it will work in just the same way as before. There are machines with a dust port on an angle at the top of the lower compartment - these ought to be really good, but I've never tried one.

I don't think you'll regret getting one. After my pillar drill it's the most useful/used machine I have.

E.

 

[Lurker]

Just looked at Facebook market place.
There’s a record startrite 301s in Wotten under edge for £400
No idea if that’s a good price or not, nor if the machine is suitable

 

[Dr.Al]

Thanks Eric, that's all extremely useful. I've added some thoughts below.

If funds permitted I, too, would be playing 'hunt the Startrite'. The resaw height is important, especially as mine is little more thsn 7" or 8"

I guess I'd better play "hunt the Startrite" then! :lol: Shame the nearest Startrite 352 on ebay is over on the other side of the country (London) at the moment

This 351 seems to be at a very good starting price, but it's still 85 miles away and there's no way I'll be able to get up there to have a look at it before the end of the auction.

I'll keep looking...

Some thoughts:

• The frame on my supposedly trade quality SIP bends when tensioning anything over about 1/2", throwing the geometry out of whack. There are workarounds, but they involve a lot of farting about. You'd be right to look for something robust.
  
• Hobby/small trade bandsaws aren't mechanically complex - most problems can be solved with good bearings and tyres, Tuffsaws blades, and a bit of care in setup. I'd go for good secondhand over expensive-and-new any day.

• 
  
  That's good to know: I guess I'm used to worrying about worn slideways etc on engineering lathes
  
  

  [*]It's well worth putting wheels on the stand. I rarely resaw, but when I do it's often fairly long lengths. I have the saw next to the side door of the garage, so I can quickly twist it to feed stock through and out of the door. If you bank on parking and using it in exactly the same spot you'll end up frustrated.

  
  There is no way I could have it without wheels to be honest. If I put it somewhere that it could be used, I wouldn't be able to walk into the workshop. Even my "lunchbox" style thicknesser has to be wheeled out of the garage to be able to use it.
  
  

  [*]Getting it into the shop: just removing everything easily removed would greatly reduce the weight. That would probably be the table, doors and wheels, and possibly the motor if necessary. As I said they are not complex machines and quick to reassemble (the SIP has a single 8mm bolt holding the table in place, for example).

  
  That's very useful to know: again I've been thinking with my milling machine / lathe head on. In some strange ways, a second-hand one might be easier than a new one. A new one would be delivered on a pallet to the road outside my house and I'd then have to figure out how to lift the pallet onto some sort of wheeled trolley to heave it up the lane. A second-hand one is likely to need to be collected so will force me to hire something a bit a more capable (e.g. a trailer I can take up the lane and get a lot closer to the garage and some form of lifting kit to get it onto / off the trailer). Of course I also need to find someone who can lend me a car with a tow-bar!
  
  

  [*]Finally, those with a single DX port at the bottom of the lower wheel compartment will have rubbish dust extraction, almost guaranteed. The previous owner of mine organised a vacuum pickup tube, which wrapped round the blade right underneath the table. It worked brilliantly, letting very little dust get into the lower compartment. I'm re-doing it presently as I changed the vacuum cleaner hoses around recently (they all use Numatic/Henry ones now), but it will work in just the same way as before. There are machines with a dust port on an angle at the top of the lower compartment - these ought to be really good, but I've never tried one.

That sounds very interesting: I may well come back to you and ask for some photos of your set-up when I'm a bit closer to actually getting a bandsaw.

I don't think you'll regret getting one. After my pillar drill it's the most useful/used machine I have.

E.

Thanks again - all very useful advice.

 

[Dr.Al]

Just looked at Facebook market place.
There’s a record startrite 301s in Wotten under edge for £400
No idea if that’s a good price or not, nor if the machine is suitable

Ooh, definitely a handy location. I'll see what I can find out about those bandsaws. I haven't got a facebook account, but I can probably find someone who can get the info.

 

[AJB Temple]

Be careful.

As well as throat capacity, for re-sawing nice and smoothly the ability of the machine to tension a 1" blade makes a big difference.

Friend of mine bought a Record 400. He was in the trade but strapped for cash. The saw was OK, but corners had been cut in lots of places (bearings, castings, plastic knobs, tensioning ability) and neither of us were super impressed.

Mine is a 16" Jet with the triangular frame which is very strong. It will tension a 1" blade and resaws very well with a sharp blade. It was all I could afford at the time and I failed to find a Startrite (which is better) close enough. The Jet has a pretty hopeless fence and no tension quick release lever.

Resawing with a bandsaw goes best with decent extraction by the way. They don't produce waste like a thicknesser does, but without extraction blade wander is more of a risk. Blade sharpness is key. People will make all kinds of blade supplier recommendations (usually Ian at Tuffsaws), but in practice most people buy in bulk from the same place and are just a wholesaler welding the blades up.

Good luck. Band saw is very useful bit of kit. It is not only the space for the saw though - it is enough space round it to handle awkward, large bits of wood....

 

[Dr.Al]

Be careful.

As well as throat capacity, for re-sawing nice and smoothly the ability of the machine to tension a 1" blade makes a big difference.

Friend of mine bought a Record 400. He was in the trade but strapped for cash. The saw was OK, but corners had been cut in lots of places (bearings, castings, plastic knobs, tensioning ability) and neither of us were super impressed.

Mine is a 16" Jet with the triangular frame which is very strong. It will tension a 1" blade and resaws very well with a sharp blade. It was all I could afford at the time and I failed to find a Startrite (which is better) close enough. The Jet has a pretty hopeless fence and no tension quick release lever.

Resawing with a bandsaw goes best with decent extraction by the way. They don't produce waste like a thicknesser does, but without extraction blade wander is more of a risk. Blade sharpness is key. People will make all kinds of blade supplier recommendations (usually Ian at Tuffsaws), but in practice most people buy in bulk from the same place and are just a wholesaler welding the blades up.

Good luck. Band saw is very useful bit of kit.

Thank you, that's all really useful advice. Sounds like the Record 400 might be worth avoiding. I'll spend more time looking to see if Startrites are available anywhere any closer. I'm not in a huge rush, although I've got a few projects on the go that need some resawn wood and if I know I won't be waiting too long for a bandsaw I'll probably just put the projects on hold until I get one!

It is not only the space for the saw though - it is enough space round it to handle awkward, large bits of wood....

I'm not too worried about that side of it. As long as I can get it on wheels and move it about, there are always options (in the extreme I can wheel it out of the garage and work outside as long as I use big enough wheels to cope with the terrain).

 

[Dr.Al]

It's a shame this one is in Kent

http://www.altsawsandspares.co.uk/352sh.html

 

[Woodbloke]

Be careful.

As well as throat capacity, for re-sawing nice and smoothly the ability of the machine to tension a 1" blade makes a big difference.

Mine is a 16" Jet with the triangular frame which is very strong. It will tension a 1" blade and resaws very well with a sharp blade. It was all I could afford at the time and I failed to find a Startrite (which is better) close enough. The Jet has a pretty hopeless fence and no tension quick release lever.

Sorry, but you don't need a 25mm blade for re-sawing; it's a myth and if your Jet machine accepts a 25mm blade as it's maximum size it won't be able to fully tension it. For max tension, go to the next size down (19 or 20mm) and then your bs will fully tension it.

I only ever use a 12mm, 3tpi Ax Diamond Ground blade at full on max tension :shock: and the doc on my big bandsaw is 350mm. The crucial thing is to set the machine up spot on before re-sawing and use a very, very sloooooow rate of cut - Rob

 

[Woodster]

Yes! That one in Kent looks good.

 

[AJB Temple]

Fair enough Rob.

I've cut up a lot of oak (which is what I mainly use on mine) and have used Axi blades and Tuffsaws blades and blades supplied by my brother (they had a bandsaw blade welding machine as they used miles of the stuff). All much of a muchness but I have tried lots of sizes for different things and for doing thick bits of oak I much prefer the wider blade. Fully agree on slow feed rate. TPI makes a big difference too, but extraction improves the performance of my saw a lot.

The Jet 16 and 18 were perfectly OK bandsaws for a cheapish price at the time, and mine has been faultless apart from the truly silly fence adjustment and a failure of the micro switches on the doors.

I would happily buy a bandsaw second hand as I suspect many are quite lightly used.

 

[Lurker]

Be careful.

As well as throat capacity, for re-sawing nice and smoothly the ability of the machine to tension a 1" blade makes a big difference.

Mine is a 16" Jet with the triangular frame which is very strong. It will tension a 1" blade and resaws very well with a sharp blade. It was all I could afford at the time and I failed to find a Startrite (which is better) close enough. The Jet has a pretty hopeless fence and no tension quick release lever.

Sorry, but you don't need a 25mm blade for re-sawing; it's a myth and if your Jet machine accepts a 25mm blade as it's maximum size it won't be able to fully tension it. For max tension, go to the next size down (19 or 20mm) and then your bs will fully tension it.

I only ever use a 12mm, 3tpi Ax Diamond Ground blade at full on max tension :shock: and the doc on my big bandsaw is 350mm. The crucial thing is to set the machine up spot on before re-sawing and use a very, very sloooooow rate of cut - Rob

Yes I agree, whatever the max recommended is, go 0.25” less as a real maximum.
I only use 0.5” and nearly always a 3tpi.
I do have narrower ones for cutting bends and circles and ones with more tpi but they rarely get used.

 

[AJB Temple]

I think it depends what you are cutting. I have a lot of seasoned oak offcuts about a metre or a bit more long, but 6" or 8" square. The bigger blade handles this wood better. Most of the time in practice the machine actually has a 3/4" 3tpi on it as I am too lazy to change blades very often.

 

[Cabinetman]

Sorry Dr Al, impossible for me to measure the footprint of my Startrite as it’s 3000 miles away lol. But don’t forget that they aren’t straight up and down, the table sticks out quite a bit further. Ian

 

[Dr.Al]

Sorry Dr Al, impossible for me to measure the footprint of my Startrite as it’s 3000 miles away lol. But don’t forget that they aren’t straight up and down, the table sticks out quite a bit further. Ian

Thanks for the thought anyway Ian. Yes, I'd spotted that the table sticks out. I'm hoping that the top of the table is below the bottom of my bench as that might allow it to sit slightly under the bench when not in use. That would make a big difference to the space taken up by the saw.

 

[Dr.Al]

I've just sent a message to A.L.T. Saws & Spares in Kent to get a bit more information.

Getting carried away? Me? Never!

 

[Pete Maddex]

I have a 352 and it’s virtually indestructible massively strong and also simple, no frills just solid engineering.
The only thing I have changed is roller bearing blade guides instead of the blocks, that cost under a tenner.
Highly recommend saw.

Pete

 

[Dr.Al]

I have a 352 and it’s virtually indestructible massively strong and also simple, no frills just solid engineering.
The only thing I have changed is roller bearing blade guides instead of the blocks, that cost under a tenner.
Highly recommend saw.

Pete

That's a great recommendation Pete, thank you. I don't suppose you'd be willing to measure it for me would you?

 

[Cabinetman]

Sorry Dr Al, impossible for me to measure the footprint of my Startrite as it’s 3000 miles away lol. But don’t forget that they aren’t straight up and down, the table sticks out quite a bit further. Ian

Thanks for the thought anyway Ian. Yes, I'd spotted that the table sticks out. I'm hoping that the top of the table is below the bottom of my bench as that might allow it to sit slightly under the bench when not in use. That would make a big difference to the space taken up by the saw.

Sorry very much doubt that’s going to be the case, unless you have an extremely high bench! The table on the bandsaw is just between belly button and heart level?

 

[Dr.Al]

Sorry Dr Al, impossible for me to measure the footprint of my Startrite as it’s 3000 miles away lol. But don’t forget that they aren’t straight up and down, the table sticks out quite a bit further. Ian

Thanks for the thought anyway Ian. Yes, I'd spotted that the table sticks out. I'm hoping that the top of the table is below the bottom of my bench as that might allow it to sit slightly under the bench when not in use. That would make a big difference to the space taken up by the saw.

Sorry very much doubt that’s going to be the case, unless you have an extremely high bench! The table on the bandsaw is just between belly button and heart level?

That depends how tall you are though! The underside of my bench top is about 940 mm from the ground; the only point of reference I have at the moment is the spec sheet for the Record BS400, which says the table is 900 mm from the ground, so that one should fit under my bench. I'm optimistically hoping the same might be true for the 352.

 

[AJB Temple]

The table will be much higher than your bench Dr. Al unless you have a very high bench.

 

[Pete Maddex]

I have a 352 and it’s virtually indestructible massively strong and also simple, no frills just solid engineering.
The only thing I have changed is roller bearing blade guides instead of the blocks, that cost under a tenner.
Highly recommend saw.

Pete

That's a great recommendation Pete, thank you. I don't suppose you'd be willing to measure it for me would you?

I measured it, but then I thought you might be more interested in the size of the bandsaw.

Height 1800mm
Width including table 670mm
Depth including table 680mm
Table height 1010mm
Table thickness 40mm.
I wheeled mine out on a sacktruck then onto a van, they do have small wheels and a handle to move them about with but I would only risk that on a flat smooth surface.

Pete

 

[Dr.Al]

I have a 352 and it’s virtually indestructible massively strong and also simple, no frills just solid engineering.
The only thing I have changed is roller bearing blade guides instead of the blocks, that cost under a tenner.
Highly recommend saw.

Pete

That's a great recommendation Pete, thank you. I don't suppose you'd be willing to measure it for me would you?

I measured it, but then I thought you might be more interested in the size of the bandsaw.

Height 1800mm
Width including table 670mm
Depth including table 680mm
Table height 1010mm
Table thickness 40mm.
I wheeled mine out on a sacktruck then onto a van, they do have small wheels and a handle to move them about with but I would only risk that on a flat smooth surface.

Pete

Thanks Pete, that's really useful. It won't go under the bench (although it's at about the same height as my bench, so the positive thing is that my bench might work as a good out-feed table!). I'll do a bit more measuring tomorrow night & see whether I think there's any chance at all. My gut feel is that it might just fit: the BS400 listed one dimension as 850mm and that was worrying me a lot.

It's good to hear that they can be moved with something as simple as a sack truck. I'd been imagining much more of a challenge than that!

 

[Pete Maddex]

Hi Al

I did use one of these and a ratchet strap just to make sure.
https://www.barriersdirect.co.uk/workpl ... 1UQAvD_BwE

But a normal one works as well, mine sits on a mobile base made from 18mm birch ply, bigger then the base with castors on so it moves round easily.

Pete

 

[BucksDad]

Dr. Al - you haven't mentioned it but if you didn't notice, the Startrite is 3phase so you will also need to get a VFD so a bit more added cost.

Also isn't the height governed mainly by the height of the stand? With your skills I've no doubt you could shorten the height of the stand so the table could fit under your bench, just have to think about ergonomics for use

 

[Dr.Al]

Dr. Al - you haven't mentioned it but if you didn't notice, the Startrite is 3phase so you will also need to get a VFD so a bit more added cost

Thanks James. I had noticed; I'm not too concerned about that to be honest. I suspect that (if it's anything like metalworking lathes) 3 phases machines will be cheaper than single phase ones and the difference is likely to be more than the cost of an inverter.

 

[9fingers]

Dr Al
Someone who lurks here but seems reluctant to join fully and post has sent me the following
“Can you tell Dr Al that the new 352 is 1140mm from floor to table with 50mm castors on and that the top can be unbolted from the base so that it can be put on a new base or as he can weld just cut it down. In this respect the base to table height is 550.

I have no idea whether this can be done with the old 352 easily.

I transported it back from Scott and Sargents in the back of a Yaris Verso and with the cast iron table romoved and the doors taken off (lift off) it can be manhandled fairly easily
”

Bob

 

[Dr.Al]

Dr Al
Someone who lurks here but seems reluctant to join fully and post has sent me the following
“Can you tell Dr Al that the new 352 is 1140mm from floor to table with 50mm castors on and that the top can be unbolted from the base so that it can be put on a new base or as he can weld just cut it down. In this respect the base to table height is 550.

I have no idea whether this can be done with the old 352 easily.

I transported it back from Scott and Sargents in the back of a Yaris Verso and with the cast iron table romoved and the doors taken off (lift off) it can be manhandled fairly easily
”

Bob

Thank you for passing that on Bob: very, very interesting indeed. Please can you pass on my thanks to the anonymous lurker and my hope that they join our community as soon as they're ready - I have no doubt they would be made welcome and would have a lot to offer.

I'm rather impressed that it can be moved around as easily as that. Definitely good news!

 

[Rezi]

It's hard to give recommendations as most of us will have experience with only one or two bandsaws.
I've only owned one and it is a Record Power 500 which, when I bought it, went in my 6' x 10' shed! It came with wheel kit and I found it fairly easy to move around on that. Being a big bandsaw it has plenty of power, large capacity and weighs about 170kg and can take a 25mm blade although I've never gone above 19mm for the tensioning reasons stated by others above.
The only negatives I can say about it are that the power switch and cable are positioned on the back which doesn't work when it is positioned against a wall. I had to remove the switch housing and mount it on the wall.
Dust extraction is a pointless effort as most of it remains inside the machine.
Changing the blade can be awkward as the doors need to be opened wide for access.

 

[Woodbloke]

Dust extraction is a pointless effort as most of it remains inside the machine.
Changing the blade can be awkward as the doors need to be opened wide for access.

I seem to recollect that a certain Steve M of this parish made a very tidy mod for bandsaws to enable virtually all the dust to be collected. The door issue is a common one as most machines need to be opened completely to change the blade - Rob

 

[Malc2098]

Yandles have an offer on.

https://www.yandles.co.uk/box-damag...155721029&mc_cid=011ac790ef&mc_eid=d5cbb70163

There are 3 sizes in total that have offered on because of the damaged boxes.

 

[AJB Temple]

Interesting to look at the pricing structures for say a new 14" bandsaw. Yandles site ranges from about £600 for Charnwood, to circa £2k for Laguna, with Record in the middle somewhere. Basically a bandsaw is pretty simple: just two crowned wheels to hold a blade, and a motor. Cast iron tables. Mostly they have basic guides, unless to pay extra for ceramic. I wonder where the value difference is?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Dust extraction is a pointless effort as most of it remains inside the machine.

You are obviously not watching the right videos, Rezi!

I seem to recollect that a certain Steve M of this parish made a very tidy mod for bandsaws to enable virtually all the dust to be collected.

Indeed, thank you Rob.
https://youtu.be/sAEr8oZfJYA
[youtubessl]sAEr8oZfJYA[/youtubessl]