Blade breaker

[Phil]

Blade breaker

While waiting for timber to build more hives, I decided to cut out some stuff and get rid of the clutter.

There was some Mahogany with patterns already drawn and a piece of unknown wood.
This small unknown piece was heavier than the Mahogany at double the size. Not sure what it is.

Note – the Hegner Polycut was on its slowest speed.

I started on the heavy piece first using a new Pegas #12 skiptooth blade. Was scarcely into the cut and there was lots of smoke and burning smell.
Then ‘dwang’ as the blade broke. (polite words were uttered …….) :evil:

Changed the blade to a #12 no name and decided the Mahogany needed attention.

Nice easy cut except for some burning around sharp corners. #12’s are not ideal to do a 180 degree turn.

Here is the Mahogany showing the cut outs.





Here is the other hard-rock-blade-breaker.



I will post some of the stuff cut out in another thread.

 

[sunnybob]

I have Bubinga that is red and streaked the same as that. Its very hard to work.

 

[Phil]

I have Bubinga that is red and streaked the same as that. Its very hard to work.

Bob, I have sawn Bubinga as well, nice timber to work with.

Bubinga is soft compared to this other wood.

 

[sunnybob]

In that case you can keep it :eusa-hand: :lol:
Bubinga is a lovely wood and I use a lot of it, but its hard enough for my needs.

 

[Gill]

You probably know this already, Phil, but removing the blade and inserting it backwards can help with really acute cuts.

Cutting thick wood (especially abrasive wood) is a real challenge. I found I had to experiment with speed settings and sometimes the slowest speed setting wasn't always the best. Sometimes I would also grease the blade with a bit of old candle, finding that the lubrication helped. Strangely, lubricating the back of the blade seemed to be just as effective as lubricating the teeth and it used far less candle wax. Of course, that did affect the finish a little but there no problems that needle files or abrasive paper couldn't resolve.

HTH.

 

[Phil]

You probably know this already, Phil, but removing the blade and inserting it backwards can help with really acute cuts.

Cutting thick wood (especially abrasive wood) is a real challenge. I found I had to experiment with speed settings and sometimes the slowest speed setting wasn't always the best. Sometimes I would also grease the blade with a bit of old candle, finding that the lubrication helped. Strangely, lubricating the back of the blade seemed to be just as effective as lubricating the teeth and it used far less candle wax. Of course, that did affect the finish a little but there no problems that needle files or abrasive paper couldn't resolve.

HTH.

Hello Gill
Good to see you.

I have not tried the wax, but used clear and brown tape which did not really look very effective.

I also bought some Pegas spiral blades which need to be tried out.
The changing of the speed - will also try a higher speed.
This will wait as I have started on the last lot of beehive brood boxes. Will do all the joining with dowels as my router is sparking and vibrating.