Block plane

[Lurker]

It is almost a week since my birthday I am sorry I have not added the pictures I have been busy with a large project and have had very little free time. Now the proposal has been submitted I can breathe.
I noticed this is different from the one I looked at I dont know if my daughter upgraded it or if it was in the wrong box. Anyway it is flat and square everything moves as it should, but other than that it is still in its box.

Flickr

That looks exactly like the one I have, less the rider badging. Can't remember a posh box either.
Right down to the lateral adjuster that moved every time I wrapped my hand around the plane.
As I say, I removed it and have never missed it, as once set I never need to alter it between sharpening.
The blade is excellent.

 

[billw]

Good thing I don't own a shooting board! :lol:

Heathen!

 

[Mike G]

I've never seen a lateral adjuster on a block plane. A little tap to the side of the iron at the top with a hammer is all I've ever done.

 

[Woodbloke]

....... I do also recollect that many of the blades weren't properly hardened so it was quite common to come across a 'soft' one........

Out of genuine curiosity, how would you have spotted a soft blade?

It was a topic of conversation in the office Mike iIrc. There were a lot of complaints at the time about inadequate hardening and tempering of the blades.

Woodbloke wrote:
the very best being the yellow acetate handled Veritas jobbies, which were just simply unbelievable :shock: - Rob



Veritas using acetate handles?! I haven't even seen those anywhere before.

Should have said Lee Valley, but I was sent one of these. Japanese steel that took a fantastic edge and were completely impervious to all sorts of sustained abuse

Mike G wrote:
I probably use one of my block planes ten times for every once I use a number 5 or 5-1/2 at the shooting board, so that would be something of a nuisance for me.


Good thing I don't own a shooting board! :lol:

THE most useful bit of kit in the workshop. If you ain't got one, make a very large 'L' shape in cardboard and stick it to your forehead! :lol: :lol: If you make one, the FWW jobbie is the one to go for but a block plane doesn't really have enough 'oooomph' on a shooter - Rob

 

[9fingers]

THE most useful bit of kit in the workshop. If you ain't got one, make a very large 'L' shape in cardboard and stick it to your forehead! :lol: :lol: - Rob

A matter of opinion Rob. The last time I used one would have been around 1965 at school and rather a lot of woodwork has been through the workshop since then.
Set a table saw up properly with a cross cut blade and the finished cut will have a polished shine to it as square as your setup.

Bob

 

[Mike G]

.....A matter of opinion Rob.....
Set a table saw up properly.....

More a matter of space and money! I'd warrant most hobby woodworkers don't have a table saw.

 

[billw]

More a matter of space and money! I'd warrant most hobby woodworkers don't have a table saw.

This. No chance I could fit a table saw in. Plenty of things higher up the list on the cash front too.

 

[9fingers]

.....A matter of opinion Rob.....
Set a table saw up properly.....

More a matter of space and money! I'd warrant most hobby woodworkers don't have a table saw.

Not so sure about that Mike. One of the classic debates now and then is the Bandsaw or Tablesaw question but apart from those that go the bandsaw route, there are a lot of small tablesaws out there. Thats said the lighter one possibly are difficult to set to a "polishing" cut reliable.
I accept lots of folk love their planes but I'm not one of them. I have to admit to trimming veneer with a block plane a couple of days ago.
Memo to self: I must sweep up the evidence soon :lol:

Bob

 

[Woodbloke]

THE most useful bit of kit in the workshop. If you ain't got one, make a very large 'L' shape in cardboard and stick it to your forehead! :lol: :lol: - Rob

A matter of opinion Rob. The last time I used one would have been around 1965 at school and rather a lot of woodwork has been through the workshop since then.
Set a table saw up properly with a cross cut blade and the finished cut will have a polished shine to it as square as your setup.

Bob

True enough but it depends how you work, init Bob? Your tablesaur takes up and inordinate amount of room and floor space: my 'shooter stands up against the wall and occupies 300 x 50mm of the 'shop floor

.....A matter of opinion Rob.....
Set a table saw up properly.....

More a matter of space and money! I'd warrant most hobby woodworkers don't have a table saw.

Mike and I have often discussed this issue and for me it's one of space but more important is accuracy. Hobbyist tablesaurs are (IMO) just not accurate enough for the sort of work I do. Your tablesaur Bob, is more upmarket than most, but it still needs a workshop the size of an 747 hanger (slight exaggeration :lol: ) - Rob

 

[billw]

What can a tablesaw do that I can't achieve with the combination of a bandsaw, track saw, and thicknesser? I'll instantly discount doing things accurately by volume, because the need for me to churn out identical pieces is remote.

 

[9fingers]

Absolutey Rob. Horses for courses.
A precision saw matches my (somewhat unconventional) methods. I ordered the saw well before the shop existed as I got a good offer on an ex-display model. As it turned out they had sold the display model to someone else but as it was their mistake, they honoured the agreed price and I got a new one after a considerable delay. Even then I had to store it at work until the shop was done.
All the structural timber for teh shop was cut by hand or on my Kity CK26 combi saw - a nasty crude machine with tilting table/fixed blade.
The TS is the only ww machine that I have bought new and never regretted it for a moment.

Bob

 

[Trevanion]

What can a tablesaw do that I can't achieve with the combination of a bandsaw, track saw, and thicknesser? I'll instantly discount doing things accurately by volume, because the need for me to churn out identical pieces is remote.

You could chuck a cutter block in the tablesaw and run mouldings which you couldn't do with the other three?

 

[Woodbloke]

What can a tablesaw do that I can't achieve with the combination of a bandsaw, track saw, and thicknesser? I'll instantly discount doing things accurately by volume, because the need for me to churn out identical pieces is remote.

Absolutely. I was nattering to a good mate (I do have one or two) a while back who runs a small woodmangling business near me. He mentioned that the only thing he needs a tablesaur for is accurate, repeat runs of components in quantity; then it makes sense. For everything else, a bandsaw, tracksaw and p/t will do the job. I'd add a drum sander also for good measure - Rob

 

[billw]

I'd add a drum sander also for good measure - Rob

Yeah I keep looking at those. In fact I think it was you that started me off

 

[Mike G]

The only benefit I would get from a tablesaw is the ability to do big rebates.

 

[Trevanion]

The only benefit I would get from a tablesaw is the ability to do big rebates.

That's what your spindle moulder is for Mike!

Oh, wait...

 

[Mike G]

:lol: :lol: