• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Boxes

In your last photo Rod I'd have been inclined to use wood pads between the wedge (and cam) and my workpiece to prevent them digging in.
 
Thanks Roger, I do use some slivers of wood in between, that was only a mock-up in fact the Wood was in the wrong place in the photo.
I’m still upset that the Trend base is carp.
Getting the Bush central to the cutter is extremely important and in fact is critical.
I see that Silverline have a brass set but I’ve not got a lot of faith in their products.

Anybody know of a quality set?

Rod
 
Thanks Bob I might take you up on that but I’ll check if some of my stuff will do that job.
The Trend Unibase comes with a centring attachment but it’s made from plastic and absolutely useless.

Rod
 
Rod":1k1mwd49 said:
.....
The Trend Unibase comes with a centring attachment but it’s made from plastic and absolutely useless.

Rod
Click to expand...



+1. Just like their kitchen worktop jig. :evil: Still waiting for my replacement since July 2nd. Trend Customer (non-)service must come from the same place as Nest's non-existent, pitifully, abysmally poor, egregious and appalling non-service.
 
Yes but I have a lot to do, so the templates makes the process quicker.
I will have to finish them off by hand, joining them up and squaring the ends and corners.

Rod
 
New Forstner worked a treat

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Rod
 
Years ago, on a tour round Axminster, we were given a miniature Router Plane from Veritas.
It’s only 60mm across the handles but it works!

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Rod
 
I have one of those, its a pleasure to use. In fact I have most if not all of the miniature tools from Lee Valley, they all work really well.
 
Still use mine that we were given on that Open Day in 2012; there's another one on the 21st Sept, ticket entry only - Rob
 
And some discs for the “handles” out of boxwood - sadly a bit “dirty” on the inside, I was hoping for pale cream.

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Rod
 
I don’t know what Robert Ingham charges for these boxes but they are incredibly fiddly and time consuming. He probably uses lots of jigs.
I’m working from photos so no plans or details and I cannot work out his hinging system so have come up with my own.

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To get a tight, matching fit I used my metal turning lathe to accurately form the 40mm diameter discs.

Rod
 
Those different grains and colours have a striking presence - absolutely beautiful ole chap. 8-)

Looking forward to seeing the overall effect when finished.

:text-bravo:
 
All 60 off of them - that’s weird.
They disappeared after Pinch left a post- perhaps Merlin was involved?

Rod
 
Trying to work out how the pin hinges are fitted to allow the lids to be removed easily? Tricksy unless I'm missing something - Rob
 
This is Robert Ingham’s, the dowel isn’t a hinge, I’m wondering if the lids are loose or fitted with hidden spring loaded pins. No idea what the dowels do??

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I used 20mm lengths of brass rod, fitting the last one is quite tricky.
If I ever have to remove them then they can be driven further into the lids but only once.

3 more to finish

They are trinket or jewellery boxes - the question was really aimed at Rob to identify the original designer - they are shown on the front cover of RI’s book which I’m sure Rob must have??

Rod
 
Rod":23nvnn75 said:
This is Robert Ingham’s, the dowel isn’t a hinge, I’m wondering if the lids are loose or fitted with hidden spring loaded pins. No idea what the dowels do??

7a9da92162230f04a31d625e8fcb8f02.jpg


b6ca170d562eda92f10e02299d22534b.jpg


I used 20mm lengths of brass rod, fitting the last one is quite tricky.
If I ever have to remove them then they can be driven further into the lids but only once.

3 more to finish

They are trinket or jewellery boxes - the question was really aimed at Rob to identify the original designer - they are shown on the front cover of RI’s book which I’m sure Rob must have??

Rod
Click to expand...

The dowel must be a 'cover' for the brass pin hinge; nowhere else really for the lids to be hinged. I can see how you get the 'outboard' one in but fitting the one on the dividers seems to be very tricky, bearing in mind that the box has four compartments and four lids :D - Rob

Edit - access to the pin on the divider must be from the other side in the adjacent box; seems the only way it could be done?
 
But RI’s dowel is in front of any hinge and there’s also a small recess in the lid for it to fit into. That would indicate that the lids are loose??
I thought the dowel might be a stop to prevent the lid going too far back but I’ve found with mine it’s not a problem.
With a hinge pin you also need to round the back edge to allow some clearance as without, they cannot rotate (unless you leave a widish gap - not seen on RI’s ones).
The pins as easy to install working round in order until the last one!!

Here’s box No 2 being lined:

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Rod
 
Rod":34yshika said:
But RI’s dowel is in front of any hinge and there’s also a small recess in the lid for it to fit into. That would indicate that the lids are loose??
I thought the dowel might be a stop to prevent the lid going too far back but I’ve found with mine it’s not a problem.
With a hinge pin you also need to round the back edge to allow some clearance as without, they cannot rotate (unless you leave a widish gap - not seen on RI’s ones).

Rod
Click to expand...
Yebbut, what I guess RI has done is to use a bit of dowel to cover the end of the hinge pin. If you look at this little box in bocote (Mexican Rosewood) you.....

IMG_1499.jpg

...can still see the end of the steel dowel pin so RI, being RI, has chosen to insert a small fragment of dowel over the end of pin once it's been driven in for the final time. What I would have done is to make the trial 'fitting' pins longer so they can be pulled out with a pair of pliers. The final pin would be made shorter to finish just below the surface so the decorative dowel can be tapped into place. Definitely going to be my next box :D, possibly in Bog Oak and Yakusugi (Japanese Cedar) - Rob
 
No the dowel goes all the way through and protrudes inside, there’s a matching ½ dowel diam recess in the lid.

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Anyway here’s another one finished apart from a final wax:

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Rod
 
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