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Chopping Board

Dr.Al

Old Oak
Joined
Dec 31, 2020
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Location
Dursley, Gloucestershire
Name
Al
I've never made a chopping board before and I've fancied having an end grain one in the kitchen, so I thought I'd have a go. I'm beginning to regret that decision...

I immediately made it hard for myself by deciding to make it in a pattern that seemed easiest when made out of individual blocks (rather than joining strips together, cutting the joined piece into strips and then gluing those strips together).

I started this back in April, cutting a bunch of bits of wood into strips and then giving myself a work-out planing them in a jig so that they were all square and the same size (any variation in size would mess up the alignment of the pattern).

jig_for_planing_blocks_600.jpg

jig_for_planing_blocks_end_view_600.jpg

Those little strips keep the block roughly in the middle of the track so that the block sits in the middle of the plane blade (so the blade's slight camber doesn't result in an off-square block).

jig_for_planing_blocks_with_block_600.jpg

All done and a big pile of plane shavings:

planing_blocks_complete_600.jpg

With that done, I could chop them all up (with the cross-cut sled on the table saw) so they were all the same length and then do a trial assembly:

trial_assembly_600.jpg

At this point I realised that a few of the cherry blocks (the only ones I didn't have spares off) weren't quite square and (having found the repetitive precise sizing of the blocks quite tedious) I somewhat lost interest in the project.

Fast forward three months and the pile of blocks was getting in the way so yesterday I decided to pull my finger out and get on with it. I made some more cherry blocks and spent an hour-and-a-half gluing 165 blocks together with Cascamite (chosen for it's long tack time).

glued_and_clamped_600.jpg

Once that had dried overnight, I ran over both faces with a router sled, taking 0.5 mm off at a time until the whole surface had been skimmed. I did the first side with wedges under the board to support it; once it was flipped over this wasn't required as it sat flat from the machining of the first side.

I then rounded the edges off (with a 3 mm arris trimmer router bit) and added some cut-outs (with an ogee router bit) to help get fingers underneath to lift it off the work surface. I then gave it a first pass with an 80 grit pad on my random orbital sander.

One side:

routed_edges_side_1_600.jpg

t'other:

routed_edges_side_2_600.jpg

Despite having been sitting nice and flat when it came off the router sled, it has now developed a slight rock (when placed on a flat surface), so I've brought it into the house and will leave it for a couple of days to see what happens. I've no idea what I'll do if it still sits unevenly; I don't really want to put it back on the router sled; sanding it level sounds too much like hard work and I'd rather not put sticky feet on the bottom if possible.

This hasn't been a project I've particular enjoyed to be honest, so I don't think I'm going to put too much effort into making it perfect - I'll get it as good as I can relatively easily and then (after applying a few coats of mineral oil) call it done.
 
Hi Al, Nice work I particularly like the finger grips, if it does move it’s simple enough to hand plane it flat again, mind you I cheated and put mine across my planer and then through the thicknesser, I’ve made a few, all out of Beech.
Again much easier with a thicknesser to get all the bits the same size, but then of course it’s just a production line item, which yours isn’t obviously. Ian
 
Be careful what you use it for. If you stick a chicken hot from the oven on it to carve, it will end up shaped like a hat. DAMHIKT.
 
My adventures with 3 designs of end grain boards is here - viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4469

I also used a router sled to flatten but didn't get any warping afterwards. I framed mine with Oak but I prefer the look of yours with the pattern going to the edge. Doubt my edges would have been pretty enough to leave exposed anyway.
 
Very nice. I doubt I'd have the patience to make one of these from individual blocks, but the result is great. Make sure you treat thoroughly with food safe oil, and keep applying.
 
Cabinetman":ycnmfbyb said:
Hi Al, Nice work I particularly like the finger grips, if it does move it’s simple enough to hand plane it flat again, mind you I cheated and put mine across my planer and then through the thicknesser, I’ve made a few, all out of Beech.
Again much easier with a thicknesser to get all the bits the same size, but then of course it’s just a production line item, which yours isn’t obviously. Ian

I'm not sure I'd have the confidence to hand plane the end grain to get it flat. Maybe with a low angle plane it might be better but my only one of those is a block plane and that sounds hard work! I wondered about using a thicknesser to get the bits to size, but partly I wanted to practise with the hand plane and partly I've never managed to get completely rid of snipe with my thicknesser and the lengths of the bits of wood I had would have meant that I'd be throwing most of each piece away.

Sheffield Tony":ycnmfbyb said:
Be careful what you use it for. If you stick a chicken hot from the oven on it to carve, it will end up shaped like a hat. DAMHIKT.

Thanks for the warning - I think this'll probably just be used for vegetables.

Robert":ycnmfbyb said:
My adventures with 3 designs of end grain boards is here - https://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtop ... =26&t=4469

I also used a router sled to flatten but didn't get any warping afterwards. I framed mine with Oak but I prefer the look of yours with the pattern going to the edge. Doubt my edges would have been pretty enough to leave exposed anyway.

I was surprised I got warping given that it's end grain that I was routing. Maybe I do need to bite the bullet and set the sled up again :cry:

RogerM":ycnmfbyb said:
Very nice. I doubt I'd have the patience to make one of these from individual blocks, but the result is great. Make sure you treat thoroughly with food safe oil, and keep applying.

I've got some of this stuff for the purpose; hopefully that should do the job. I'm not sure I'd have the patience to make another one of these from individual blocks! I nearly didn't have the patience to do this one...
 
Easy way to stop it rocking, add some stick on rubber feet, soft rubber would be best.
We have an old end grain chopping board from Ikea that sits on little rubber faced triangles are ment for the workshop, to stop it sliding on the work top.

Nice board, I don't think I have the patience to make one. [emoji44]
 
Dr.Al":2id071sh said:
Cabinetman":2id071sh said:
Hi Al, Nice work I particularly like the finger grips, if it does move it’s simple enough to hand plane it flat again, mind you I cheated and put mine across my planer and then through the thicknesser, I’ve made a few, all out of Beech.
Again much easier with a thicknesser to get all the bits the same size, but then of course it’s just a production line item, which yours isn’t obviously. Ian

I'm not sure I'd have the confidence to hand plane the end grain to get it flat. Maybe with a low angle plane it might be better but my only one of those is a block plane and that sounds hard work! I wondered about using a thicknesser to get the bits to size, but partly I wanted to practise with the hand plane and partly I've never managed to get completely rid of snipe with my thicknesser and the lengths of the bits of wood I had would have meant that I'd be throwing most of each piece away.

Sheffield Tony":2id071sh said:
Be careful what you use it for. If you stick a chicken hot from the oven on it to carve, it will end up shaped like a hat. DAMHIKT.

Thanks for the warning - I think this'll probably just be used for vegetables.

Robert":2id071sh said:
My adventures with 3 designs of end grain boards is here - https://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtop ... =26&t=4469

I also used a router sled to flatten but didn't get any warping afterwards. I framed mine with Oak but I prefer the look of yours with the pattern going to the edge. Doubt my edges would have been pretty enough to leave exposed anyway.

I was surprised I got warping given that it's end grain that I was routing. Maybe I do need to bite the bullet and set the sled up again :cry:

RogerM":2id071sh said:
Very nice. I doubt I'd have the patience to make one of these from individual blocks, but the result is great. Make sure you treat thoroughly with food safe oil, and keep applying.

I've got some of this stuff for the purpose; hopefully that should do the job. I'm not sure I'd have the patience to make another one of these from individual blocks! I nearly didn't have the patience to do this one...
I think you ought to try it with a number four smoothing plane, it really is ever so easy and will only take a minute or 2 to get it flattened off, you really can’t actually make a mistake as long as the plane is set fine. Ian
 
Cabinetman":37rxxgu3 said:
I think you ought to try it with a number four smoothing plane, it really is ever so easy and will only take a minute or 2 to get it flattened off, you really can’t actually make a mistake as long as the plane is set fine. Ian

Okay; maybe I'll give it a go. I won't have any workshop time until later in the week so the board will have a few days to adjust to house humidity. Then I'll see how brave I'm feeling :eusa-whistle:
 
Well done for going back and finishing this project. With the high level of patience you've shown on other projects, you've convinced me that ordinary side grain boards are much better, even if not so pretty!
 
AndyT":3jgtufzw said:
Well done for going back and finishing this project. With the high level of patience you've shown on other projects, you've convinced me that ordinary side grain boards are much better, even if not so pretty!

I have to agree. This one and all the others we have seen in the past look gorgeous, more work of art than a tool for the kitchen. I can understand the challenge in getting it right and to look as good that takes some planning, skill and patience.
 
Every time I try one of those things, it delaminates somewhere as soon as it goes anywhere near hot water :cry: - Rob
 
Sorry to say this but in my experience of numerous end grain chopping boards, including home made and commercial, they will all split in actual kitchen use unless they have both constraining side boards and through bolts in both directions. Anything less than 3" or 4" thick is not robust enough.

You've done a lovely job Dr Al but best kept for display or maybe as a bread board rather than cooking.
 
The board I kept for our own use is used every day - mostly as a bread board but does get some other non meat use...and it is as solid as when I made it. It does get rinsed under the hot tap now and again too. No warps or splits in mine so don't lose heart.
 
Dr.Al":2uzkms13 said:
Woodbloke":2uzkms13 said:
Every time I try one of those things, it delaminates somewhere as soon as it goes anywhere near hot water :cry: - Rob

I'm not sure I wanted to hear that... :cry:

I think one possible way to prevent delaminating is to use a proper, really good, waterproof (not just water resistant) glue such as might be used in boat building where the timber is in constant contact with the wet stuff - Rob
 
Woodbloke":2irscjnp said:
Dr.Al":2irscjnp said:
Woodbloke":2irscjnp said:
Every time I try one of those things, it delaminates somewhere as soon as it goes anywhere near hot water :cry: - Rob

I'm not sure I wanted to hear that... :cry:

I think one possible way to prevent delaminating is to use a proper, really good, waterproof (not just water resistant) glue such as might be used in boat building where the timber is in constant contact with the wet stuff - Rob

I used this stuff: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001OZIA2

It says in the blurb on that page "Cascamite is a waterproof, synthetic resin adhesive for use on general joinery - especially outside woodwork and boat building."

Who knows, I might get lucky! :eusa-pray:
 
Dr.Al":2vqiahsu said:
I used this stuff: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001OZIA2

It says in the blurb on that page "Cascamite is a waterproof, synthetic resin adhesive for use on general joinery - especially outside woodwork and boat building."

Who knows, I might get lucky! :eusa-pray:

Cascamite have changed their formulation I believe (lack of a particular ingredient in the Middle East) and I’ve heard indications that it’s not as good as it once was, so I wouldn’t use it. It says on the box that it’s ‘weatherproof’ which ain’t the same as ‘waterproof’ I’d go instead for something like this - Rob

https://www.axminstertools.com/polyproo ... lue-400014
 
Woodbloke":2bcbe2eh said:
Dr.Al":2bcbe2eh said:
I used this stuff: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001OZIA2

It says in the blurb on that page "Cascamite is a waterproof, synthetic resin adhesive for use on general joinery - especially outside woodwork and boat building."

Who knows, I might get lucky! :eusa-pray:

Cascamite have changed their formulation I believe (lack of a particular ingredient in the Middle East) and I’ve heard indications that it’s not as good as it once was, so I wouldn’t use it. It says on the box that it’s ‘weatherproof’ which ain’t the same as ‘waterproof’ I’d go instead for something like this - Rob

https://www.axminstertools.com/polyproo ... lue-400014

Too late! To be honest, I chose the cascamite mainly because of the tack time (2 hours at 20°C): that cascaphen stuff in your link would have tacked up before I finished the first row and would have been rock solid well before the clamps were in place. I guess I'll just have to see what happens.
 
I used TB3 on one chopping board, and D4 on another, and neither are showing signs of delamination. Whilst that Cascaphen may be good, you use huge amounts of glue in end grain chopping boards and it would cost a fortune. D4 is about £10 per litre. You do have to work quickly though as it grabs quite fast. That's not normally a problem if you are using the traditional strip construction method of building an end grain chopping board, but could be if glueing individual blocks. .
 
If it hasn't got feet, store it vertically so air can get to both sides.

If you leave a board without feet flat on a worktop, the top dries out quicker and it'll bow.

I've made a fair few endgrain boards using TB3, normally about 1 1/2" thick, and not really had any problems. They normally bow a little when first made, but flatten out after a week or two.
 
I made a couple about 14 years ago. The first one bowed slightly the wrong way (after I'd routed hand holds). The next one, I waited to see which way it would bow before routing hand holds, and it stayed flat, and consequently still has no hand holds.
Used Titebond 3. One has a split in it now, I would fix it, but we rarely use them, as they are toooo heavy.
 
Like many I can admire the work of others and wish I had the patience to make similar, - but I haven't so congrats on getting this far!
 
For a while it was far too hot in my workshop to do anything, but this weekend I finally got on with it and had another go at the chopping board.

I started by getting the router sled out again and having another go at flattening it, but within a few minutes of having finished, it was warped again. As I said I before I wasn't particularly enjoying this project so I decided to say "s*d this" and just stick some rubber feet on the bottom.

I recut the rounded edges and the finger grips and then gave the faces a quick once-over with my #80 to get rid of a few router track marks:

chopping_board_80_600.jpg

I then sanded the edges a bit to tidy them up and poured a bucket-load of mineral oil over it until it stopped absorbing everything I'd thrown at it. After leaving it overnight I gave it a bit of a rub down and now I'm going to leave it for a week or two as that seems like a good thing to do :eusa-think:

Anyway, this is what it looks like at the moment:

chopping_board_600.jpg
 
Another thing you might find is that regular oiling will affect the shape as well. We have a relatively thin commercial end-grain chopping board and it cupping upwards is the first sign that it needs oiling again. Giving the top a good soak with mineral oil will flatten it out again.
 
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