Curved woodwork on a spindle moulder

[9fingers]

Not quite sure how I'm supposed to divine what you did Roger? You would have course drawn a diagram and tucked it inside the terminal box for the benefit of anyone taking over your machine :lol:

But all that is needed should be to configure a switch to make the changes shown in the diagram in your first photo.

Be aware that the motor will only reverse if stopped, then the switch flipped and finally restarted.
If you change the switch with the motor running, nothing will happen or in the case of a capacitor start and run motor, it will likely go bang.
In an ideal world the reversing switch should be linked into the DOL starter to force the motor into the stop state when changing direction.

Bob

 

[kirkpoore1]

After tenoning was complete, rebates and mouldings were put on the stock using a spindle moulder. I used a router with table to put a groove in the lower meeting rail to receive the glass (only the top meeting rail receives a rebate) the lower one has a groove:


Grooving the lower meeting rail on a router table.

...

Not much more to show so will continue later.

Mark

I've got a question here, Mark. I've never made a full window, but: This groove on the lower rail is intended to hold the glass. Will it not also hold any water that slides down the glass and gets past the seal/glazing compound/whatever you call it? At that point, the water will soak in and start to rot the wood, just like happened on the original sash. Would it not be better to put the groove at the top, where the water won't be a problem?

Kirk

 

[RogerS]

Not quite sure how I'm supposed to divine what you did Roger? You would have course drawn a diagram and tucked it inside the terminal box for the benefit of anyone taking over your machine :lol:

But all that is needed should be to configure a switch to make the changes shown in the diagram in your first photo.

Be aware that the motor will only reverse if stopped, then the switch flipped and finally restarted.
If you change the switch with the motor running, nothing will happen or in the case of a capacitor start and run motor, it will likely go bang.
In an ideal world the reversing switch should be linked into the DOL starter to force the motor into the stop state when changing direction.

Bob

:eusa-clap: :eusa-clap: That's brilliant, thanks, Bob. Your comments were enough to jog my memory as to what I did and decipher the drawing

 

[RogerS]

Kirk, unless I'm mistaken as to how Mark is making his window, that groove is at the top.

The way that the two meeting rails 'meet' can be a pit for the unwary when making sash windows DAMHIKT !

 

[kirkpoore1]

Kirk, unless I'm mistaken as to how Mark is making his window, that groove is at the top.

The way that the two meeting rails 'meet' can be a pit for the unwary when making sash windows DAMHIKT !

Ah, I misunderstood then. I was thinking "lower" meant the bottom of the sash.

Thanks...

Kirk

 

[meccarroll]

Kirk, unless I'm mistaken as to how Mark is making his window, that groove is at the top.

The way that the two meeting rails 'meet' can be a pit for the unwary when making sash windows DAMHIKT !

Ah, I misunderstood then. I was thinking "lower" meant the bottom of the sash.

Thanks...

Kirk

Glad you got your answer Kirk. As RogerS has said sash windows can be a bit tricky around the meeting rail. Repairing this bow window was probably one of the most complex machining operations I have had to do so far. I have made quite a few curved headed doors, gates etc but working on this bowed sash window made the machining more complex than usual.

RogerS, thank you for posting both diagrams (window and electrics). I'll take a look at the wiring on my spindle moulder.

Mark

 

[meccarroll]

Well thank you for following this so far. I know quite a few people using this forum have or are contemplating the purchase of a spindle moulder so I thought posting the thread might be of interest.

I have just got a couple more pictures to tie this up:

Couple of close up pictures of the cill and sash components ready for painting:

Removing rotted sections on site to receive the new cill:

Copious amounts of sealant were used in and around all joints also on the underside of the cill to prevent any moisture penetrating:

All joints were painted and sealed to prevent future rot occurring:

Sorry but I did not take any further pictures of the box sections being re-built.





That all on this thread, thank you to Kirk and RogerS for their contributions (very helpful).