So I have been asked to clarify the way I used the cross piece for the feather edge cladding. I must admit whilst I used the tactic as demonstrated from Mikes thread, I think I adjusted it a bit.
First, I started with two of them, (the crucifix's) one each end, but in the end reverted to one, so that all measurements were exact, and there was no requirement to swap ends. I found this easier, others may not.
This is my crucifix, a few bits to note.
In a rush it's top can be confused so an arrow avoids that.
There is a screw strategically placed. This is in such a position as to place a punched mark on the feather edge board where the fixing needs to be placed.
I will confess I followed the installation guidelines from Mike to the letter - one nail per board per batten. I did go one step further and pre drilled all the holes also. When you are measuring up and painting etc, and I did paint ends, bottom and top of each board, pre drilling doesn't really add any time and I feel it also reduces the chance of splitting. Especially if you are within 100mm of the board end. I drilled a larger hole than the nail by a couple of mm, and used stainless annular ring shank nails. Ive has no splits yet or nails moved.
When the crucifix is offered up to the board it immediately enables a couple of measurements. The first is the top of the crucifix which can be marked with a pencil if you wish, but also the next board can be balanced on the top. The screw also places a mark in the board where the fixing can be placed, This fixing needs to hold the board in place but avoid going through the board behind it. This point can be marked if you wish, and it makes it easier.
You will know the fixing spacing along the board because the battens placed at no more than 600mm spacings, are visible and in your eye line when you are making these marks with your crucifix.
So this is what your crucifix looks like when offered to board...
Leaving the marks looking like this..
The bottom mark made by screw is where you put your fixing.
The mark above is the location of the bottom of the board above.
Clearly, the manufacture of the crucifix is critical, and is based on the size of the boards, what spacing (overlap) of boards you want, I think 25/30mm is recommended (?) and where you feel you want the fixings, and I would encourage a bit of a dry run with a few off cuts to refine this to ones liking.
Depending on the size of your shed some of these lengths will be quite long, and I would encourage you to knock up a quick bench with stops that keep the board level in relation to your saw so each piece can be sawn square quickly. You can also add stops if you are sawing more than one board the same length.
There are variations clearly on this, and I think the original process as per Mikes thread, has the screws being screwed into the board fixing the crucifix so as to provide a couple of 'stops' or supports for the board above. This would work equally well but i preferred my method having tried both.
bscene-drinkingcheers: 
