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Design defect or not important ?

RogerS

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Setting up a new 3/8" blade today, I found that at the bottom guide, you can't get the thrust bearing in position because the plastic shroud (what is it there for ?) isn't wide enough for the bearing to go inside when narrow blades are used.

Is this an issue or not that important for the bottom guide ? Having said that it ought to be an issue otherwise why bother to put a thrust bearing on the bottom guide in the first place !

 
I'm guessing the plastic shroud is some attempt at dust control, if you undo the cap screws can you adjust the position of the shroud itself? I would assume RP understand that their main consumer are hobbyists that use narrow blades and it should've been designed accordingly.
 
Trevanion":2r47jb0i said:
I'm guessing the plastic shroud is some attempt at dust control, if you undo the cap screws can you adjust the position of the shroud itself? I would assume RP understand that their main consumer are hobbyists that use narrow blades and it should've been designed accordingly.

The shroud is too narrow to accept the thrust bearing as it's a one-piece item.
 
RogerS":2pi3lnz8 said:
Trevanion":2pi3lnz8 said:
I'm guessing the plastic shroud is some attempt at dust control, if you undo the cap screws can you adjust the position of the shroud itself? I would assume RP understand that their main consumer are hobbyists that use narrow blades and it should've been designed accordingly.

The shroud is too narrow to accept the thrust bearing as it's a one-piece item.

Yes, but if you undo the cap screw in the picture, can you bring the whole shroud forwards so that the thrust bearing can also come forward?
 
Trevanion":3e19kptv said:
RogerS":3e19kptv said:
Trevanion":3e19kptv said:
I'm guessing the plastic shroud is some attempt at dust control, if you undo the cap screws can you adjust the position of the shroud itself? I would assume RP understand that their main consumer are hobbyists that use narrow blades and it should've been designed accordingly.

The shroud is too narrow to accept the thrust bearing as it's a one-piece item.

Yes, but if you undo the cap screw in the picture, can you bring the whole shroud forwards so that the thrust bearing can also come forward?

No slots for movement in the shroud!
 
What does it look like from the front with that plastic shroud removed?

Can you post a picture, please?

Is it possible, also, that, rather than the blade sitting on the crown of the wheels, it's running towards the front? I'm wondering if it's too far forward.

My old machine can go out of alignment simply through being bumped across the rough concrete floor of my garage workshop. Did you check the whole lot when you unpacked it - that the wheels are parallel etc.?
 
Eric the Viking":2w1yismf said:
What does it look like from the front with that plastic shroud removed?

Can you post a picture, please?

Is it possible, also, that, rather than the blade sitting on the crown of the wheels, it's running towards the front? I'm wondering if it's too far forward.

My old machine can go out of alignment simply through being bumped across the rough concrete floor of my garage workshop. Did you check the whole lot when you unpacked it - that the wheels are parallel etc.?

Not easy to remove the shroud. But I know that if I did then the thrust bearing would easily get into the right position.

Check the wheel are parallel ? Didn't even cross my mind to TBH and not sure off the top of my head how to do it.
 
You need to borrow your pet octopus for that job, Roger. It's most easily done with the table off. Clamp a piece of identical-thickness timber flush to the rims of each wheel, aligned vertically. These have to be wide enough that when you hold a straight edge against one it clears everything in between and can be read against the bit of wood on the other wheel.
 
Wot Sir wants is "The Compleat Bandsaw", by, a certain Mr. M<cough>ery of this parish.

It's jolly sensible and jolly good. I set my old lump up after watching it and everything is now wonderful.

And the bandsaw is pretty reasonable, too.

Seriously, Steve makes much more sense than certain other Bandsaw gurus (who I actually have watched on Glue Tube, before someone sounds off), as he has rational explanations for the things he talks about.

But I would be absolutely amazed if yours was properly set up out of the cardboard, if for no other reason than it's been transported untensioned.

Regarding the plastic bit - I would just take that off. My guess is that it's an H&S thing - someone worried that people might cut fingers etc. Also, Steve has taken Olly PJ's bandsaw DX idea to the next level, and his write-up is worth a look too. The original is pretty good, but Steve has tidied it up somewhat.

E.
 
As suggested above you may be able to run the blade a little further back to solve the problem.
A design fault would not be too surprising since the use of bearings in that orientation is prone to causing damage to the machine if a small piece of scrap falls through the table slot.
My BS 500 looks identical but has a two part metal guard rather than plastic.
I had the bottom alloy casting shattered after a very short period of use when a sliver of scrap fell through.
The after sales service was spot one with a new part and I now use shop made inserts to prevent a recurrence.
 
Eric the Viking":30f597fm said:
Regarding the plastic bit - I would just take that off. My guess is that it's an H&S thing - someone worried that people might cut fingers etc.

E.
As would I; it's underneath the table so your pink fleshy bits aren't going to go anywhere near it in use. 'Tis a bit of elf n'safety gizmocity :D - Rob
 
I’m not sure it was intended as a H&S device. When I first saw it, it seemed designed to help prevent dust clogging the guides? Removing it doesn’t seem to have made much difference but then I’ve changed all the guides except the thrush bearing on my machine.
 
Oh dear! Did I really do that?! No, I suspect it was the predictive text again. :lol:

I should have said that I do get a build up of dust around the guides but I always hoover up at the end of the day and the wood dust hasn’t caused a problem so far.
 
Wot Sir wants is "The Compleat Bandsaw", by, a certain Mr. M<cough>ery of this parish.

Seconded.

You could also try the much vaunted Mr Snodgrass on Hughtube. I personally think he's a long-way second to Nottinghamshire's Finest, but a lot of people swear by him. (Too nasal for my liking).
 
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