Door closers

[TrimTheKing]

Evening all. After the third instance of my @rsehole cat p!ssing on our bed, despite every member of my family REPEATEDLY being instructed to CLOSE THE DOOR whenever you leave the room, it’s time to implement technology!

I’ve been looking at door closers and from what I can see there are 3 types, industrial top mounted affairs (absolutely not happening!), frame mounted pushy with a spring loaded stick style and these...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CT85F2T/ ... 3DbM38E8PT

I’m looking for advice on whether there’s anything else on the market I should be looking at and/or quality versions of the above.

Doors (I’m thinking they might go on all upstairs doors as I’m worried the d!ck head cat will migrate to another room if he can’t get into ours!) are good quality old reclaimed pine, panelled with a deep, just below middle, rail.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

My deepest sympathies.... We had two geriatric cats that were a nightmare fur this[emoji24]

I've not a lot to add, but the popular brand (original?) for the (linked) concealed door closer you mention is made by Perko

Quite straight forward to fit, and should you decide to remove them later, easy to remedy and patch up the jamb and door.

Jim

Sent from my moto g(7) plus using Tapatalk

 

[TrimTheKing]

Thanks Jim

He’s not geriatric, he’s 3, he’s just a complete and utter d!ck head! We love him to bits but he still is!

He got shut in the room by accident one day and did it and I think it’s become a habit now. Why he can’t do it on the scotchguarded carpet though I don’t know!!

 

[Mike Jordan]

The perko type device will slam the door every time. That will tend to loosen the door casing, crack the plaster, and of course make a noise. Proper hydraulic closers do the job gently but cost a little more.

 

[9fingers]

Rub the cats nose in its deposits and then kick it outside for 24hrs, it will soon learn to associate cause and effect.

All but the first type of closer are feeble as they run low on closing power just when the door is nearly closed and if the door happens not to latch it only takes a f@rt to open it thoise first few inches.
The proper ones can be set up to close the door steadily and then put a spurt on for the last few degrees of closure to firmly latch the door.


Bob

 

[StevieB]

Rub the cats nose in its deposits and then kick it outside for 24hrs, it will soon learn to associate cause and effect.

Not unless you do it at the time of the deposit being made. Do it later and cats (or dogs for that matter) absolutely do not understand cause and effect. I work with several animal behaviour academics and this is one of the things they all agree on!

 

[AndyP]

Mark, I have one of those "frame mounted pushy with a spring loaded stick style" like this...
http://www.sterlinglocks.com/sterlingwo ... osers.html although ours is brassed.

No need for it to bang if adjusted correctly and I have started to put those little sticky rubber dots on all our door frames to stop doors banging loudly when closed.

 

[TrimTheKing]

Thanks Andy

I'll have a look at those and also try and find some of the barrel type, in higher quality, and test them both out.

How much are those that you linked to?

 

[Mike Jordan]

The Sterling closer is based on one designed to shut garden gates (you can ignor the little label claiming that they are suitable for closing fire doors, no certifying authority would issue a certificate to any building relying on even one of these.) what you use in your own home is obviously your choice, I think this is part of the woodworkers curse - it may be a third rate job but it's cheaper than the proper item. Every time it fails to close the door or the noise wakes you up, just think of the saving!

 

[TrimTheKing]

Thanks Mike

I've just been reading reviews and have ordered a single barrel Perko, rated for up to a 50kg door. Reviews suggest the spring can be loosened off to much less to stop it slamming, and worst case I have found a small soft close device that can also be fitted to slow the final travel.

I'll give that a go, and at £20 if it works then great and if not then I have another location it can be used in where slamming isn't an issue.

 

[AndyP]

Thanks Andy

I'll have a look at those and also try and find some of the barrel type, in higher quality, and test them both out.

How much are those that you linked to?

No idea mate. I bought brass ones but it was longer ago than my memory can recall where from.

 

[RogerS]

There is a much simpler (and free) option but you probably wouldn't like it. :twisted:

 

[9fingers]

There is a much simpler (and free) option but you probably wouldn't like it. :twisted:

But Mark will still need to pay for the shotgun cartridge! :lol: :lol:

Bob

 

[RogerS]

There is a much simpler (and free) option but you probably wouldn't like it. :twisted:

But Mark will still need to pay for the shotgun cartridge! :lol: :lol:

Bob

I could call in on my way past and bring my .22 CZ

Or my .243 CZ !

 

[TrimTheKing]

:lol:

 

[SamQ aka Ah! Q!]

9fingers wrote:
Rub the cats nose in its deposits and then kick it outside for 24hrs, it will soon learn to associate cause and effect.


Not unless you do it at the time of the deposit being made. Do it later and cats (or dogs for that matter) absolutely do not understand cause and effect. I work with several animal behaviour academics and this is one of the things they all agree on!

Completely agree. It's inhumane and counter-productive as a deterent; you simply create more problems as you initiate fear and apprehension unassociated to the urination.

Trim, how about a litter tray? I know you don't want the moggie in the room full stop, but one of these and baited with a few cat-treats in the shape of dry biscuits will habituate the feline to its presence in the room and encourage usage. Once the pattern of using the bed is established, it will be hell to break.

Sam