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Drop-in router table

RogerS

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So, what's going on 'ere then ?



I thought that I was going to get away without having a router table again but now realise that that was being optimistic. For starters, I need to make some raised panels for the orangerie windows and doors. While I could do it on the spindle moulder, (a) I'd have to buy a cutter and they're not cheap (b) the pieces of stock are going to be relatively small and so much easier and safer to do on a router table.

I hummed and hah'd about making my own but I don't have the time. I looked into buying just, say, the top but then realised I'd still have to make the fence or buy one in and the costs soon escalated.

I vaguely thought about dropping just the router insert into the long mitre saw bench above the rotary converter - bottom LH corner of this photo



But realised that this was NOT a good idea as all the dust etc would end up being sucked into the rotary converter. Plus I'd still need a fence of some sort, cut groves in the bench top etc...all in all a lot of hassle.
So I bought the Axminster Premier router table. It's really good value. I've got the lot for under £200. I can drop the router table top into my assembly bench. Why didn't I use the Axminster router table cabinet ?
Well, I have this little gem to make use of and there's no real-estate on the Axminster top.



It's a Co-matic Baby power feeder and a legacy for when I was making those clocks. So watch this space. How's he going to do it, I hear you ask ? All will be revealed.
 
So...off we go.

I am indebted to Steve Maskery who told me this approach. First you need a top-bearing guided cutter. This is a nice chunky one from Wealden.



First position the router table top where you want it. I originally was going to have it located equally across two side cheeks of the cabinet underneath. I started drilling an initial hole but then realised that I couldn't remember how the cabinet bearers were fitted, any screws etc.



So prudence made me shift it to the front slightly. Then after I drilled the next hole, realised that I was now fouling the front bearer. So the whole lot was shifted back to where it was and then sideways. Must remember the 7 P's in future. :oops:

We're aiming to fit four guides for the straight edges like this



But we need to do the rounded corners first. Luckily I have some of these.



After marking the outline of the RTT, I drill some holes to let me get a jigsaw in to hog out the corners so the router bit doesn't have to work too hard.





Then screw my template to the assembly bench top as I don't want it to move.

Then start to make the cut with the router. My bit isn't long enough to do it in one pass but that's the advantage of a top-bearing because as you progress the cut you are making yourself a guide for the next lower cut.





And we're all done for the corners.



So back to where we were ...I jumped a bit with the photos as this is the next step



Again rough cut out the MDF and add a support at the end as the last thing I want is for the MDF to break off badly and take a chunk out from where I need it.





And it's more of same as we do the straight sides...remembering to take several light cuts and to go clockwise...and then to forget the carefully cut corners and run into them :oops:

Also note the metalware..glad I shifted the position.



In passing, I don't have the dust extractor for my router and so put my chip extractor in a useful place to take most of the MDF dust away.

Has to be said that I hate working with MDF. I treated myself to a new 3M facemask and it works a treat as I couldn't smell any MDF while I was working. 'cos if you can smell it then that's all the tiny dust going into your lungs :(

And that's it...job done



and 'No' that cabinet bearer won't foul the router. I do do a little bit of planning.....sometimes.

Last of all because I was no longer supporting the RTT by the cabinet sides, I've added a little bit of support.

 
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