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First Attempt at a Box

Dr.Al

Old Oak
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Dursley, Gloucestershire
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Al
I decided it was time to make a box. I didn't have any particular contents in mind, nor did I really care what it looked like: I mostly wanted to practice a few techniques (getting mitres right, using my home-made grooving planes, planing stuff to be flat and square etc). Hence I didn't spend any time thinking about design but just made it up as I went along out of material I had.

I haven't made a lid yet (I decided to make it separately rather than make the box in one piece and cut the lid off): I'll have a think about that tomorrow. I also haven't thought about finish yet.

The original plan had been to make it purely using hand tools. I've come pretty close to that, but when it came to getting the walnut insert pieces down to a consistent 2 mm thickness, I quickly decided that there was a good reason I bought a thicknesser recently and I used that. So far that's the only use of a power tool in this project.

Here's what it looks like so far:

box_base_800.jpg

Another view: I was really pleased with three of the mitres: I can't see a gap at all. The fourth one has a very slight gap at the top: I guess I wasn't careful enough when shooting it.

box_base_view_2_800.jpg

I made a bit of a mistake in the base build: I shot the mitres and then got the grooving plane out and made the grooves for the base. I then checked the mitres and realised they weren't quite right (probably hadn't been pressing down hard enough on the piece when they were on the shooting board), so had to go back to the shooting board. Unfortunately, one of the base bits suffered a bit going back to the shooting board (the groove left it too weak). Live and learn I guess. You can see this in the back-left of this photo of the underside:

box_underside_800.jpg

Some in-progress pictures just because I took them while I was making it...

One of the sides getting its groove:

box_grooving_800.jpg

I've never had a go at splined mitres before. My approach to doing this was to use two layers of masking tape and some superglue to temporarily attach a saw to a block of wood that seemed to be about the right thickness. I also marked the limits of the splines with masking tape on the box (making sure the tape didn't protrude beyond the top or bottom of the box).

box_preparing_for_spline_cuts_800.jpg

box_preparing_for_spline_cuts_2_800.jpg

I then pushed the box down onto the bench and also pushed the saw down onto the bench while cutting into the corners. I repeated on all corners and with the box "right way up" and upside down.

I then (having done some test cuts on a bit of scrap) masking taped a couple of steel rulers to the bottom of the wooden block and added more layers of masking tape until the resulting width of the two saw kerfs was right for the splines (3 mm thick as that's the smallest chisel I have):

box_preparing_for_second_spline_cut_800.jpg

Then it was just a case of digging out the gaps with a chisel:

box_splines_dug_out_800.jpg

I'd planed the walnut for the splines down to 3.2 mm, thinking I could tweak the thickness down to 3 mm with some sandpaper or whatever. I figured it was better that they were too thick rather than too thin. Having chiselled out the gaps, I did a quick test and they fitted with only fairly gentle persuasion from the hitting stick so in the end I didn't sand them down at all and just fitted them as is.

Tomorrow I'll try to decide what material to make the lid out of (probably oak, but maybe walnut) and then try to decide how to make it a slightly more interesting shape than just a flat top!
 
Looking good, Doc! That's a very interesting and clever way of doing the splines, I wouldn't have thought of doing it like that with the spacers taped to the saw.
 
Trevanion":3pa3o6mi said:
Looking good, Doc! That's a very interesting and clever way of doing the splines, I wouldn't have thought of doing it like that with the spacers taped to the saw.

Thanks Trevanion. I'd been planning to use the wood taped to the saw method to separate the box & lid (with a nice thin kerf from the 0.3 mm dozuki blade), but that obviously didn't happen once I'd decided to make them separately. Having had the idea of how to cut the line evenly, it seemed sensible to use it for the splines instead!
 
That method is a good idea and one I shall copy.

I would be tempted to line the bottom of the box.

Nice thread.
 
Impressive! I’d be nervous as hell running 2mm stock through a thicknesser, even on a sled.

Nice idea about the splines too. Made my second one today and needless to say it wasn’t perfect but I now have a list of instructions to follow which build in how to avoid the mistakes I’ve made to date.
 
billw":2pto0hrp said:
Impressive! I’d be nervous as hell running 2mm stock through a thicknesser, even on a sled.

It seems fine as long as the wood is fixed down to the sled (I use masking tape, superglue & activator as it's easier to get off than double-sided tape) and you take light passes (0.5 mm or less at a time).
 
billw":3qrfsk04 said:
What are the overall dimensions and thicknesses so I can get a feel for the size and scale?

90 mm × 150 mm at the base, 70 mm high. Oak sides are 8 mm thick with 2 mm thick walnut inside. Walnut liners stick up 3 mm and the splines are 3 mm thick and 8 mm on each side.

Outside dimensions were picked based on the plank of oak I had.
 
I decided to do a very simple lid so I could get the box finished today and think about my next project! All finished now with 4 coats of shellac and a coat of paste wax. I think I'll go back to Mike G's Magical Mixture for future boxes (and probably most other things that aren't just workshop kit) but I wanted to get this finished and shellac is nice and quick.

box_lid_on_800.jpg

Close-up

box_lid_on_close_up_800.jpg

Underside

box_underside_and_lid_800.jpg

I also decided that I agree with AJB Temple and that it was worth lining the bottom:

box_lid_off_800.jpg

box_inside_view_800.jpg
 
Looks good! Something will soon turn up that needs a box. :)
 
Nice box for a first stab and as Mike has mentioned, they're tricky things to get right. I agree with Adrian that it's usually always a sound idea to line the bottom of a box, either using the side lining timber (if used) or a fabric/leather material. I particularly like the way you cut the splines...very cool 8-) - Rob
 
billw":1g22j0gt said:
Impressive! I’d be nervous as hell running 2mm stock through a thicknesser, even on a sled.

Today I was cutting up some reclaimed greenheart (probably) that came out of my father-in-law's shed and I went a bit awry with the hand saw. Your comment had got me thinking, so I decided to do a test with the piece that I'd ended up with. I taped it down to my sled (just a bit of cheap veneered chipboard pulled out of a cheap and very nasty old wardrobe) and ran it through the thicknesser (taking about 0.2 mm off at a time once it got thin) to see how far I could go before it started breaking up. This was what it looked like after the final pass:

thin_slice_of_kingwood_800.jpg

The central hole was in the original piece; you can see where it was starting to tear up on the right-hand side and where there's a hole in the top-left corner. These tear-outs both appeared on the last pass. For a sense of scale, the dimensions of this are about 200 mm × 350 mm ish I think (I only measured the 200 mm - the other dimension's a guess based on the photo!).

Anyway, having peeled it off the sled, I measured it and the thickness varies a little across the width (I guess my thicknesser doesn't cut quite square), but the range is 0.5 mm to 0.6 mm. I'm not sure how far I could have gone if I'd dropped the cut depth down to 0.1 mm or thereabouts, but I was quite pleased with the result.

I think I might cut it into slices and use it to make some bookmarks. Just need to find something good to treat it with to give it the best chance of surviving as a bookmark.
 
Is Custard here?

Custard had a fantastic "lining a box thread" that I learned a huge amount from, would be a great project post for here.
 
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