Happy Birthday... Maybe ?

[Jimmy Mack]

Here's a little dressing table I'm trying to squeeze into the next four weeks for Mrs Mack's BIG Birthday, whilst also on a Credenza for a customer.... There are no drawings, just a sort of sketch....winging it a bit, as one (or I) does with home projects... Which'll mean lots of goofs and lots of off cuts most likely [emoji23]

I'll pop pictures up as it progresses, using the forum as a motivational tool to get done for early December... You can throw tomato emojis at me if I miss it!

Something like this but I've gone negative... As in white top with black insert, mirror frame and drawers (ooops!... changes already!)

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[Malc2098]

Nicely! Is it 60s inspired?

 

[Mike G]

Oooooh......a Jimmy Mack project!! <rubs hands, pulls up a chair>

 

[Rod]

Looks interesting

Rod

 

[Jimmy Mack]

A few pictures from the weekend.

2 layers of 3mm bendy ply stapled (these later pulled, in case they rusted through the QTR Sycamore) into the rebate.


Rollered PVA onto the veneer and carcass before allowing to dry, 1hr, and iron on.

Similar finishes to the Display Case piece in a sort of mid-century modern meets The Jetsons [emoji3]

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[Malc2098]

I love a good WIP!

 

[Mike G]

What's that strange tool in the 5th photo? :lol:

 

[RogerS]

What's that strange tool in the 5th photo? :lol:

It's actually brilliant and brining out any dings or dents. Just apply water and the 'strange tool' et voila, out pops the ding.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

What's that strange tool in the 5th photo? [emoji38]

How very dare you Mr G! That's my trusty Rowenta Surfline , c 1985[emoji7] German engineering [emoji847]

I promised mum I'd put it back [emoji1787]

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[Coley]

Looking smart already [emoji6]
"Rollered PVA onto the veneer and carcass before allowing to dry, 1hr, and iron on."
I've never seen this done before. Does the pva then work like contact adhesive ?

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[9fingers]

Looking smart already [emoji6]
"Rollered PVA onto the veneer and carcass before allowing to dry, 1hr, and iron on."
I've never seen this done before. Does the pva then work like contact adhesive ?

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Not really. It is nearer to a hot melt glue than contact adhesive.
Bob

 

[Coley]

Looking smart already [emoji6]
"Rollered PVA onto the veneer and carcass before allowing to dry, 1hr, and iron on."
I've never seen this done before. Does the pva then work like contact adhesive ?

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Not really. It is nearer to a hot melt glue than contact adhesive.
Bob

Thanks Bob. I think I'll have to try it. I've not really dabbled with veneer much. This method would really help apply curvy pieces. Does it need steam from the iron or just heat ? I've an old iron I use for iron on edging but it's only a heat pad.

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[Rod]

That looks like an interesting method

Rod

 

[9fingers]

Looking smart already [emoji6]
"Rollered PVA onto the veneer and carcass before allowing to dry, 1hr, and iron on."
I've never seen this done before. Does the pva then work like contact adhesive ?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Not really. It is nearer to a hot melt glue than contact adhesive.
Bob

Thanks Bob. I think I'll have to try it. I've not really dabbled with veneer much. This method would really help apply curvy pieces. Does it need steam from the iron or just heat ? I've an old iron I use for iron on edging but it's only a heat pad.

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I've not done a lot of veneering but my preference to date has been for constructional veneers 2-3mm thick for which I use a vacuum clamp. If I get brave enough to try curved work, I will need to use thin veneers and I might well try the iron on method. I reckon steam could be useful for convex work as the glue application will likely have bent the veneer the "wrong way" due to moisture imbalance.

Bob

 

[fiveeyes]

Looking very nice.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Looking smart already [emoji6]
"Rollered PVA onto the veneer and carcass before allowing to dry, 1hr, and iron on."
I've never seen this done before. Does the pva then work like contact adhesive ?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Not really. It is nearer to a hot melt glue than contact adhesive.
Bob

Thanks Bob. I think I'll have to try it. I've not really dabbled with veneer much. This method would really help apply curvy pieces. Does it need steam from the iron or just heat ? I've an old iron I use for iron on edging but it's only a heat pad.

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Hi Coley,

No stream. You want the least amount of water present as it'll lift the veneer. It's key that you let your pieces dry or glaze over before ironing, use some baking paper to protect your veneer from iron burns.

Tapping over the surface as you work helps to pick out any areas that have not grabbed, you'll hear the acoustic tone of the surface change. Any missed surfaces will likely bubble up when you apply your finish... You'll always miss a few spots, a careful iron and they should grab.

As Bob says, your veneers will go a bit curly when you apply the glue, oversize your veneers.

Jim

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[Jimmy Mack]

A few pictures from this week, started on the centre drawer, a piece of black glass will go on top here, in the insert. Incase Mrs Mack spills her acetone!

Next some routing to let some Ebony binding into the edges of the Sycamore 'C' shape. There's a scratch coat of WB varnish on the Sycamore, to reduce contamination from the Ebony dust.

Also made is a much needed boom arm, using 50mm plumbing, an idea partly lifted off the internet [emoji16]

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[Malc2098]

I really like the plumbing!

 

[Jimmy Mack]

I really like the plumbing!

Thanks Malc [emoji3] ... Seems to be working out so far [emoji1696]

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[Malc2098]

I really like the plumbing!

Thanks Malc [emoji3] ... Seems to be working out so far [emoji1696]

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Defo will nick that idea!

 

[Rod]

Very clever

Rod

 

[Jimmy Mack]

A few from today...I tried to control the dust, but Ebony is a PITA.... It's like soot! All sanding needs to be vacuum backed to keep the Sycamore clear...I feel like a badly stuffed fox. Ready for a beer.

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[Malc2098]

Coming along nicely.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

A few extra shots from this week. With some drawer details. I'd like to set the central drawer cartridge a little further back to reveal maybe 12 mm of the ebony/ sycamore corner detail, though having ordered the black glass I may have to leave it where it's is. D'oh.

A simple finger pull using fostner bits and a round over cutter.

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[RogerM]

Looking really good. When you seal the sycamore to stop the ebony dust contamination, doers subsequent sanding remove the surface finish ready for whatever your final finish is going to be, or is it part of the permanent finish?

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Looking really good. When you seal the sycamore to stop the ebony dust contamination, doers subsequent sanding remove the surface finish ready for whatever your final finish is going to be, or is it part of the permanent finish?

Thanks Roger, yes subsequent sanding does remove the surface finish, it still gets in the Sycamore grain [emoji2955], a grain fill would be best prior perhaps[emoji848] Sanding with extraction helped the most, I've the Mirka /Abranet sanding block which you can plug into the vac. I use the Abranet on the ROS too.


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[Jimmy Mack]

PS... same finish throughout* I'm brushing the Osmo UV Wax (WB), hoping the UV blockers will delay the effects of UV for as long as possible. Some maple finished the same way 3 years ago still looks quite light .

*Except the scorched Oak which is ebonised plus extra thin oil

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[Rod]

Really nice work

Rod

 

[AndyP]

Indeed. Gorgeous.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Front legs: black. In the OP I drew them to the edge... But now I'm not too sure...

Middle or Edge? [emoji848]

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[DaveL]

Not that I know much about designing furniture, but I like the leg in the middle better than on the edge.

 

[Malc2098]

Not that I know much about designing furniture, but I like the leg in the middle better than on the edge.

:text-+1:

 

[AndyP]

FWIW I disagree and think the edge is better. Would like to see the whole front with both legs in situ.

 

[MY63]

I Think it looks fantastic not sure where the legs should go.

 

[RogerM]

Looking fabulous. I think I prefer the leg in the corner. If it was in the middle, it will only look as though it's in the middle when viewed straight on anyway. But Hey! I'm no design guru!

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Oh.... 50/50.

I'm not sure the plates or soffit are going to be stiff enough and my legs are quite slender...I might need to work in an apron or rake to eliminate twist/wobble which will lead the leg position (possibily outside)...

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[Rod]

Outside for me as original sketch

Rod

 

[Jimmy Mack]

I tried out the round legs but they were just too skinny and wobbly

Trialed a few alternatives...

Settling on ..

If you can make sense of it upside down!... Along with a cardboard mirror template...

A free hand template out of some scrap panel an elliptical router jig would be ideal... But the clock is ticking!... So a bit of sculpting...

Cutting off the bulk of the inside waste and corners for glue up ..

Deadline looms! [emoji849]

Onward [emoji16]

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[Malc2098]

The scale and positioning of the round legs looks just right to me; very 60s.

Is there any way you can brace them?

 

[Jimmy Mack]

The scale and positioning of the round legs looks just right to me; very 60s.

Is there any way you can brace them?

I thought they were a touch too skinny myself... Keeping the round leg design would have been nice tho. A curved stretcher would do it but the form work and into a taper felt a little envolved, perhaps in conjunction with an apron also... Maybe next time [emoji16][emoji854]

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