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Heath Robinson copy carver project.

Lons

Old Oak
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Name
Bob
Sorry, not much woodwork or a work in progress, during the Covid after effects I just couldn’t be bothered but hopefully some might find it of interest and I’ll post up the results good or bad when I eventually try it out.

I mentioned a while ago that I wanted to knock up some kind of copy carver mostly to duplicate a stock or two for my air rifle. I could do the whole stock by hand but as there could be more, a mate has dropped hints and another mentioned copying some guitar bodies, I considered this worth a try especially if I used materials I already had and if not I can reuse all the metal for something else.

So after the first few days of Covid between Christmas and New Year, weary of daytime TV I started, a few hours here and there and I’m fairly confident it should work although it might be a while before I try it out as the only sizeable hardwood I have is the mahogany in the last photo. I’ll probably try it first on softwood or laminated ply but I might eventually try to find a nice piece of walnut or a burr if everything works.
Main slider rails from 30mm sqare tube and the frame from 25mm tube with commercial corner joints rivetted for stability. The cros slide is 13.5mm thick walled tube which is all I had.
“bearings” for main sliders are 18mm birch ply lined with some scrap 3mm polypropylene as I had no ptfe. The alternative would have been to buy proper rail and linear bearings or a number of ball races. Bearing for the cross slide was a lump of mahogany with a hole drilled and carefully filed to a tight sliding fit for the round tube, I also drilled the back of that, theaded the holes to 6mm cut a couple of leather pads inside the holes with small springs then 6mm cap screws, intended to take up slack if the hole wears.
The drive end is ply screwed to the frame with extra mahogany blocks, wood faceplates secured to long carriage bolts, as these were partly threaded I had to use a 10mm die to cut threads the full length, I also used some brass tube as sleeves through the timber. These faceplates need to turn exactly the same amount in use so I repurposed some cycle cogs and a cut down chain on the other side, wasn’t happy initially so turned them around. I may need to find a way to lock these in position but probably not.
For the opposite end I made up a separate framewith two lengths of 25 tube with hardwood blocks sandwiched between 18mm MDF. The points are threaded rod adjustable for length. This is screwed to the end which is suitable for the gunstock length but I can move that to suit smaller objects.

The router holder and guide assembly is similar to a design cribbed off the internet, made from 18mm birch ply to accommodte my Makita trim router with the guide point again threaded rod. I’ve turned 3 ends and threaded those to screw on the end but can easily make others to suit the width and profile of router cutter used. The assembly has a counterweight at the back which is just a box and 4 old sash window weights. It wouldn’t be difficult to make a new holder part if I wanted to use a different or larger router.
Everything slides well with a smear of wax on the rails and bearings so promising.


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Interesting. I'll have a closer look when the mods have fixed the photos (I've reported it to them).

I made a pantograph copy carver a few year ago, and what I learned from that is that any "slop" in the system ruins it. An engineering approach, rather than making it out of wood, would make a really useful tool.
 
Mike G":2j3ljr7t said:
Interesting. I'll have a closer look when the mods have fixed the photos (I've reported it to them).

I made a pantograph copy carver a few year ago, and what I learned from that is that any "slop" in the system ruins it. An engineering approach, rather than making it out of wood, would make a really useful tool.

Slop was what concerned me as well Mike and there doesn't seem to be any though only use will show properly. the adjustment in the "bearing" on the round tube should stop any if it develops and the square main side sliders I made a tight fit so just easing the bottom screws marginally adjusts if necessary.
The ideal build would as I said use proprietory rails and bearings for the sides and linear bearings and tube for the cross slide. The router holder assembly is pretty solid but could easily be made from metal and welded which is something I seriously considered. Might do it yet if I'm not happy with the results. My welding skills aren't great but I could manage that.
 
Not wishing to hijack this interesting project, i thought I might show everyone this copy carver that was built by this lady's grandfather to carve aeroplane propellors.

I'm presuming the principle would be the same for gunstocks.

[youtubessl]bqD6cJOvYE8[/youtubessl]
 
Thanks Malc
I'd watched that a while ago and it clearly works very well as it's part of a business. A blade wouldn't work well for a gunstock as you have to copy the cutouts for the barrel, trigger unit and mechanisms which need a router and not much use for anything else that was intricate. There are some widely different contraptions on the internet but the basic principle is pretty simple. Mike hit the nail on the head when he mentioned slop as if it's not rigid it won't work.

I may have wasted my time but I actually enjoyed the process and there could well be several other versions forthcoming. :eusa-doh: :lol:
 
Very cool project. I do a lot of target rifle shooting and making my own stock is on my list of overly ambitious projects!
 
Andyp":3raxpi1w said:
Describing this as “Heath Robinson” does you an injustice Bob.

An over generous compliment Andy but appreciated.
If I was a smoker I'd have said it was back of a fag packet stuff. :) TBH whether it works or not I got a lot of satisfaction just working out how to best use the materials on hand and it kind of evolved so just a lot of faffing about.

What I forgot to say as well is that the main slider bars came from a length of heavy tube cut exactly in half, it was all I had so dictated the length of the contraption which is only just long enough to take the gunstock blank however that posed a problem in that the router can't reach the whole length. That's the reason I adopted the design of the carrier assembly so it can be flipped over, the router fitted the other way and easily re adjusted to finish the other end of the stock.
 
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