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Hinges for boxes

MY63

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I think this is the best place for this question.
Some time ago I made a pen box from MDF wrapped in Ostrich hide. As the hide is outragously expensive I bought an off cut which happened to be orange and made a sample from it.
It was a good thing as the lid sides were not deep enough for the screws for the hinges.
Someone would like to buy the sample so I need to find a suitable hinge. My first thought was to use piano hinge. I found some 25mm wide 0.7mm thick which I think may well work.
I thought it would be a good idea to ask the collective for their thoughts.
The edges are 10mm deep and 12mm wide.

2019-11-21_09-25-09 by my0771, on Flickr

2019-11-21_09-27-00 by my0771, on Flickr

TIA
 
There's not a lot of 'meat' there Michael to set in a pair of hinges, but I may have a solution for you. In one of my 'baccy tins out in the 'shop I have a few pairs of 25mm, solid drawn brass butts, specifically for box making. I no longer use them as they're extremely fiddly with a capital 'F' to fit and get absolutely spot on (so that the lid and box mate exactly). The easiest ones to fit are the Smarthinges from Andrew Crawford which are child's play compared to butts, but they need timber at least 14mm wide and preferably 16mm. Were it me, I would stay clear of a piano hinge as they look (to my eyes) a bit 'tacky' and not in keeping with a box such as yours - Rob

Edit - depth of 10mm makes it very difficult, if not impossible to fit a screw, especially into mdf
 
Some thin strips mitered at the corners and set in to the lid will make a nice lift off lid box.

Pete
 
Piano hinge will look awful, dont do it.
I would add a fillet along the back edges inside the box to give enough meat for the hinge if you really want the lid attached..
 
Woodbloke":3pza8217 said:
The easiest ones to fit are the Smarthinges from Andrew Crawford which are child's play compared to butts, but they need timber at least 14mm wide and preferably 16mm

I don't think that's correct, I'm pretty sure I've used Smart Hinges/Neat Hinges in 12mm thick stock. I'm not sure off hand about the depth for screws, but that should be pretty flexible, if it's in MDF it would be wise to plug first with solid timber,.

If it were me aiming to live up to that absolutely luscious Ostrich hide then Smart/Neat Hinge would be my first choice. Congratulations by the way, you did an absolutely smashing job getting the skin to conform so neatly to the rolled edge, that looks really, really great!
 
Custard":3u4hpart said:
Woodbloke":3u4hpart said:
The easiest ones to fit are the Smarthinges from Andrew Crawford which are child's play compared to butts, but they need timber at least 14mm wide and preferably 16mm

I don't think that's correct, I'm pretty sure I've used Smart Hinges/Neat Hinges in 12mm thick stock. I'm not sure off hand about the depth for screws, but that should be pretty flexible, if it's in MDF it would be wise to plug first with solid timber,.

Yes, of course you can use them in 12mm wide stock Mr.C but that then only leaves 2mm each side of the hinge plate which is getting a trifling on the fine side. You could use them on 10mm if needed but then you'd only have 1mm each side, which is getting very 'iffy'.

I also have used Andrew's hinges in 12mm thick stock and it's perfectly doable, but 14mm leaves a bigger 'comfort zone' - Rob
 
Woodbloke":3ib6endr said:
Custard":3ib6endr said:
Woodbloke":3ib6endr said:
The easiest ones to fit are the Smarthinges from Andrew Crawford which are child's play compared to butts, but they need timber at least 14mm wide and preferably 16mm

I don't think that's correct, I'm pretty sure I've used Smart Hinges/Neat Hinges in 12mm thick stock. I'm not sure off hand about the depth for screws, but that should be pretty flexible, if it's in MDF it would be wise to plug first with solid timber,.

Yes, of course you can use them in 12mm wide stock Mr.C but that then only leaves 2mm each side of the hinge plate which is getting a trifling on the fine side. You could use them on 10mm if needed but then you'd only have 1mm each side, which is getting very 'iffy'.

I also have used Andrew's hinges in 12mm thick stock and it's perfectly doable, but 14mm leaves a bigger 'comfort zone' - Rob

The smart hinges I’ve used have been 6mm wide so 3mm either side in 12mm sides. I’m contemplating using some on 10mm sides...
 
NickM":3bhowx25 said:
The smart hinges I’ve used have been 6mm wide so 3mm either side in 12mm sides. I’m contemplating using some on 10mm sides...
Those aren't the one's that Andrew Crawford sells which are a gnats under 8mm wide. 'Neat' hinges that I've also used are designed to be used with an 8mm router cutter as well. If you're using hinges that are 6mm wide, you'll need to use a very, very tiny countersunk screw; Andrew's hinges use a No.3 I think which is as small as I'd care to go...although I do have some 1/4" No.0's on my hinge shelf :D - Rob
 
This is the actual box as you can see it has wider sides and less round over on the corners, One of the suede pads was lost in transit I made replacements.

2019-12-28_09-34-23 by my0771, on Flickr

The Pens if anyone is curious are handmade Namiki Emperor's and the smaller ones are Namiki Yukari Royale. These are mainly limited edition pens. Prices are not for the faint of heart google at your own risk :)

Ostrich leather is very difficult to work with in this maner as its layers part easliy, Glue the first layer down and the next one peels up. The edges were a nightmare, My trick was to glue and trim the leather then apply a layer of veneer over the edge.
 
NickM":1vbx2p4l said:
I've used the prokraft ones in the past:

https://www.prokraft.co.uk/premium-solid-brass-side-rail-hinges.html

One potential snag with these type of hinges for the beautiful Ostrich clad box is the rounded corners it has. I'm not sure these would look quite right?

Correct Nick..these types of hinges can only be fitted to a box with square corners; it would look very odd otherwise - Rob
 
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