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Honing Guide Maths

Dr.Al

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Al
First of all I'll get a quick disclaimer out of the way. I know this is getting very, very close to the banned topic of sharpening. I'm not trying to comment on whether or not one should use a honing guide or what angles one should sharpen one's tools at, just a bit of a point of interest on the maths behind honing guides. Hopefully that's within the limits of what's acceptable :lol:

With that out the way...

Something had never quite sat right with me with the projections written on the side of my (Eclipse 36) honing guide:

eclipse_guide.png

I couldn't quite get in my head how the plane projections are fixed when it's the top surface of the plane iron that defines the angle (thinking about it now, it's probably because when the guide was designed most plane irons were the same thickness). Anyway, that got me going down a rabbit hole and I decided to work out the maths involved:

honing_guide_maths.png

In that image, r is the radius of the wheel (r = 9.5 mm in the case of the Eclipse guide I have), w is half the body length (w = 20 mm in the case of my guide), p is the projection and d is the distance from the centre of the wheel to the top surface of the tool.

For my guide, d is about 17.5 mm for chisels and 20.5 mm plus the thickness of the iron for plane irons. Chisels are referenced to the top surface whereas plane irons are referenced to the bottoms, hence the difference:

reference_faces.png

What that means is that the correct projection for a given angle is decidedly different for the (say) 2.1 mm plane iron in my Stanley #4 to what it is on the 3.4 mm iron on my Axminster #5 or the 5 mm iron on my Veritas BU smoothing plane. Now of course (oops, straying into banned territory here) bevel angles don't matter much on BD planes, but on the BU smoothing plane I'm almost certainly getting a different angle to what I would expect as the honing guide projections assume a 2.1 mm iron.

Does it matter? Well that's a banned topic, so I won't answer that :lol: 8-)

Anyway, to prove the point (and because I quite enjoy CAD), I thought I'd model it. Here's a model of the honing guide:

honing_guide_model.png

This is what it looks like with both a chisel and a 2 mm plane iron fitted simultaneously (because anything's possible in CAD :D ) and with the angle set to 25°:

honing_guide_2mm_25degrees.png

The projections don't quite match the writing on the side, but they're close enough for me given that my model of the guide was based on somewhat haphazard measurements.

Now look what happens when I stick a 5 mm plane iron in:

honing_guide_5mm_25degrees.png

Similarly with 30° and a 2 mm iron:

honing_guide_2mm_30degrees.png

and 5 mm:

honing_guide_5mm_30degrees.png

As I said, I'm not sure how much it matters, but I found it interesting to delve into the (relatively simple) trigonometry and I thought others might be vaguely interested too.

It's worth noting that the Veritas Mk2 honing guides always reference off the top surface, regardless of the tool, so none of the above applies to them.
 
Well, I think that's interesting. You've thought about it more deeply than I ever have. It's reassuring to see that the simple measurements work, near enough.

And I reckon you're right, that for the time it was made and the audience it was aimed at, thin Stanley/Record irons would have been a fair assumption.
 
Firstly, I don't think discussions on sharpening are banned. I think arguments about sharpening are, as are arguments on most things. Secondly, my tuppence-worth is that the actual angle isn't critical, so the projection isn't critical. What IS critical, though, is that it is the same every time. I only use a honing guide for plane blades, and I use it because I only have a single bevel, not a primary and secondary......which means I never have to re-grind. Chisels are too thick to work in the same way. I've got a simple cut-out on a piece of wood in my sharpening drawer which sets the projection to the same every time, and frankly it doesn't matter a jot whether that is a few mm different from the measurement on the side of the guide.
 
I am glad there are people in the world, like the good Dr, to think of all the things that would never have crossed my mind in a thousand lifetimes but which I still find fascinating and have the ability to the explain them in a way that I can understand.

I am not at all sure that woodworking requires the level of science that the engineers around here sometimes like to apply but again the subject is no less interesting.

Thank you.
 
Al,
Your fourth image (cad model) is wrong :shock: *
Look at the third image to see why, sorry to be obtuse about acute drawing ;)

* sorry :D
 
Lurker":3r4l7nl9 said:
Al,
Your fourth image (cad model) is wrong :shock: *
Look at the third image to see why

* sorry :D

Well spotted! It was an error when the CAD model regenerated after I changed some of the parametric inputs. I fixed it as soon as I spotted it but had obviously saved the screenshot before doing so.
 
Can you tell I was a quality assurance auditor?
I love picking faults with other people’s work :D
 
When I used one of those Eclipse-type jigs, I quickly found that the precise amount of blade over-hang was of secondary importance to being able to repeat it exactly each time I re-loaded the blade for another rub-down....... so I made a jig to line up blade in the jig, if you get my meaning

Otherwise I'd expend a great deal of effort regaining enough of the original bevel before I could raise a burr-line and move on to the next grit.
 
As said well done for thinking about this and investigating :eusa-clap:
Just a thought, what are the results for setting plane irons if you referenced the back edge of the grind bevel?
Cheers, Andy
Ps don't forget that this guide has two versions of the same thing, the other has the chisel notch sloping the other way.....
 
Lurker":3k91wfzu said:
Can you tell I was a quality assurance auditor?
I love picking faults with other people’s work :D

That's alright, I'm an engineer: I enjoy the review process as I learn stuff from it.

toolsntat":3k91wfzu said:
Just a thought, what are the results for setting plane irons if you referenced the back edge of the grind bevel?

The distance would be consistent (for plane irons), but I think all the other disadvantages would cancel out that benefit. I would typically sharpen until the tip gets a burr along the edge. At that point, I haven't moved the tip distance very much from where it was when I set the blade in the guide. If I measure from the back of the bevel, then the angle will only be right if the existing bevel is exactly the same as the new bevel (which would make things very difficult if you have a secondary bevel).

toolsntat":3k91wfzu said:
Ps don't forget that this guide has two versions of the same thing, the other has the chisel notch sloping the other way.....

I'm not sure I follow what you mean there.
 
Lurker":31lwxpro said:
Can you tell I was a quality assurance auditor?
I love picking faults with other people’s work :D

I've fixed the picture now as I also don't like leaving mistakes in my work...
 
Argus":2phys71v said:
.... so I made a jig to line up blade in the jig, if you get my meaning

Otherwise I'd expend a great deal of effort regaining enough of the original bevel before I could raise a burr-line and move on to the next grit.
That's all that's needed to get a repeat angle every time; three bits of ply like a miniature bench hook. The maffs done in this post has gone waaaaaay over my head as I haven't even tried to comprehend stuff like that since the heady days of my HNC in the early '70's. These days I have enough trouble with simple 'riffmetic which is why there's always a calculator in the drawer under the bench - Rob
 
Dr Al

Superb. I admire engineers. Offspring one is one.

My PhD was in maths. Forced into it against my will due to greed. I found looking over this thread that the number of tosses I give about plane sharpening angles is exactly zero tosses. :lol: 8-) :oops:

I find the angle on the stone that worked last time I sharpened it, do slidey slidey until the ancient eclipse thing sets it and then do the old push and pull. If I am not in the workshop. If I am in the workshop I set the Sorby linisher to the plane angle, hold it on the plate and 3 seconds later it is sharp. Wire edge takes almost 2 seconds to wipe off on diamond plate adjacent.

Keep up the good work though. If you posted this on UKW Jacob would expire.
 
As an engineer I appreciate calculations, but have you allowed for the pressure applied during use and the slight deflection of the projected lengths
 
Dr.Al":3g1qklpo said:
Lurker":3g1qklpo said:
Can you tell I was a quality assurance auditor?
I love picking faults with other people’s work :D

That's alright, I'm an engineer: I enjoy the review process as I learn stuff from it.

toolsntat":3g1qklpo said:
Just a thought, what are the results for setting plane irons if you referenced the back edge of the grind bevel?

The distance would be consistent (for plane irons), but I think all the other disadvantages would cancel out that benefit. I would typically sharpen until the tip gets a burr along the edge. At that point, I haven't moved the tip distance very much from where it was when I set the blade in the guide. If I measure from the back of the bevel, then the angle will only be right if the existing bevel is exactly the same as the new bevel (which would make things very difficult if you have a secondary bevel).

toolsntat":3g1qklpo said:
Ps don't forget that this guide has two versions of the same thing, the other has the chisel notch sloping the other way.....

I'm not sure I follow what you mean there.

Here you go, the two versions of the Eclipse No36 honing guides.
Note the differing bevel direction in the chisel jaws.
Cheers, Andy

IMG_20230522_125745.jpg
 
toolsntat":3hlpcq1u said:
Dr.Al":3hlpcq1u said:
Lurker":3hlpcq1u said:
Can you tell I was a quality assurance auditor?
I love picking faults with other people’s work :D

That's alright, I'm an engineer: I enjoy the review process as I learn stuff from it.

toolsntat":3hlpcq1u said:
Just a thought, what are the results for setting plane irons if you referenced the back edge of the grind bevel?

The distance would be consistent (for plane irons), but I think all the other disadvantages would cancel out that benefit. I would typically sharpen until the tip gets a burr along the edge. At that point, I haven't moved the tip distance very much from where it was when I set the blade in the guide. If I measure from the back of the bevel, then the angle will only be right if the existing bevel is exactly the same as the new bevel (which would make things very difficult if you have a secondary bevel).

toolsntat":3hlpcq1u said:
Ps don't forget that this guide has two versions of the same thing, the other has the chisel notch sloping the other way.....

I'm not sure I follow what you mean there.

Here you go, the two versions of the Eclipse No36 honing guides.
Note the differing bevel direction in the chisel jaws.
Cheers, Andy


Interesting! I'd only seen the sort on the right. The one on the left would give a different angle for different chisel thicknesses.
 
Here you go, the two versions of the Eclipse No36 honing guides.
Note the differing bevel direction in the chisel jaws.
Cheers, Andy

View attachment 21030
Hi Nordic Pine, I am new on this forum but you have posted something I have been wanting to know for ages. I have both versions of this Eclipse 36 Honing Guide. Do you know which is the original version and which produces more consistent results with chisels? Thanks
 
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