• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Hully's Workshop Build - Summer Update

Mike G":ug9mjx6i said:
Are these timber feather-edge boards?

If so, then butt jointed is better than bevelled, and it is perfectly OK to install them with the ends still wet with paint. For a Rolls Royce job, cut a bit of 6" DPC say 3 inches wide and staple it (at its top edge) at the join location such that the bottom of it is just above the level of the boards which will cover it. Joins should of course be at a batten, which is why you use 50mm battens rather than 38. Don't forget to paint all round with a couple of coats before fixing in place, and then a final coat once in situ.
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Cheers for confirming Mike. Yep, they're Larch feather-edge. Good idea about the DPC, I have some knocking around so will do that.

Am I reading your last sentence right? I should paint each board on all sides twice (presumably 2 coats of primer) before putting them up? Is this to avoid warping?
 
Yes, back, front, top and bottom edges, and ends should all be painted. The back, top and ends get a mist coat and a single coat, and the exposed face and bottom edge get a further coat once fixed in place. This is because boards are essentially a rainscreen, and not a watertight layer. It is almost inevitable that water will penetrate somewhere, and so whatever protection the outside is afforded, so should any other surface. Further, as you say, any timber should be treated equally all round to prevent one side moving differentially from another.

You say your boards are larch. What finish are you proposing?
 
Mike G":36ra6dnd said:
Yes, back, front, top and bottom edges, and ends should all be painted. The back, top and ends get a mist coat and a single coat, and the exposed face and bottom edge get a further coat once fixed in place. This is because boards are essentially a rainscreen, and not a watertight layer. It is almost inevitable that water will penetrate somewhere, and so whatever protection the outside is afforded, so should any other surface. Further, as you say, any timber should be treated equally all round to prevent one side moving differentially from another.

You say your boards are larch. What finish are you proposing?
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Thanks for confirming Mike. Bit of a ball ache (I was itching to put the boards up this weekend) but necessary...so looks like I'll be painting this weekend.

For the finish I was just thinking of using an acrylic primer and then acrylic exterior wood paint, something like this http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/exterior- ... ood-paint/

I may use a knotting solution as well though I'm not too worried about knots bleeding through
 
Hully":3r1j30ck said:
.........Thanks for confirming Mike. Bit of a ball ache (I was itching to put the boards up this weekend) but necessary...so looks like I'll be painting this weekend.

For the finish I was just thinking of using an acrylic primer and then acrylic exterior wood paint, something like this http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/exterior- ... d-paint....
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I'm a huge fan of Bedec Barn Paint (and Multi-Surface Paint for planed timber). I've been using the stuff all afternoon, and if you have bought your paint yet, that is what I suggest you get. They don't have a huge range of colours yet, but what they have is nice, and the paint is of wonderful quality and performance.
 
Mike G":rjzlhz1p said:
I'm a huge fan of Bedec Barn Paint (and Multi-Surface Paint for planed timber). I've been using the stuff all afternoon, and if you have bought your paint yet, that is what I suggest you get. They don't have a huge range of colours yet, but what they have is nice, and the paint is of wonderful quality and performance.
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Thanks very much for the recommendation Mike. I wasn't sure on the paint so thats a great help. I've not bought any paint yet, just the primer. The Mrs likes the light grey barn paint so I'll order some next week :D

Cheers
 
Rod":tfs0699b said:
Larch - I thought you could leave untreated as it mellows to a very nice colour?

Rod
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Hi Rod

You're right, Larch can be left natural but we want to give the workshop some colour to look a bit like a New England House. We've watched too many episodes of This Old House :lol:

Cheers
Hully
 
Hully":417mzhzq said:
.....Thanks very much for the recommendation Mike. I wasn't sure on the paint so thats a great help. I've not bought any paint yet, just the primer. The Mrs likes the light grey barn paint so I'll order some next week :D

Cheers
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You don't use primer with Barn Paint. You water down the first coat, quite a lot.
 
Hi All

Bit of a delay updating the post so apologies. I've been busy cladding so thought I'd show the fruits of my labour. Its taking much longer than I expected (like everything on this build) but cladding by yourself can be a tricky and frustrating business. I'm about 2/3's of the way through so should hopefully be finished in a few more weeks.

Overall pretty happy with the results, its starting to look like a proper building now!!

Cheers
Hully



 
Looking good - I know the weather has been good lately but I would have put the roof on first. Roof on and membrane (on the sides) gets it pretty weatherproof.

Rod
 
Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D
 
Dan0741":1wbkg9gt said:
Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D
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Ditto, cuts that were 'press fit' on mine are now a couple of mm short, but nothing much you can do. It's a natural product at the end of the day! Looking good, looking forward to seeing the roof!
 
Malc2098":3gnx9ilx said:
Yo, Hully!

Racing ahead of me! Looking good!
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Cheer Malc. Your build is coming on really nicely. Looks like a "proper job" mate!!
 
Dan0741":fkqz6l7d said:
Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D
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Cheers Dan. All the field joints are butted tight and the edge joints currently have around a 3mm gap to the trim boards but I assumed there would be some shrinkage over summer so planning on caulking and painting towards the back end of summer once everything has had time to settle.
 
ScotlandtheDave":3q6fi7x3 said:
Dan0741":3q6fi7x3 said:
Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D
Click to expand...

Ditto, cuts that were 'press fit' on mine are now a couple of mm short, but nothing much you can do. It's a natural product at the end of the day! Looking good, looking forward to seeing the roof!
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Thanks Dave. I'm looking forward to seeing how I do the roof as this has been the biggest question mark for me on the project :D

I was looking at the tiles spec last night and it looks like there will be nearly 2 tonnes on the roof which has made me think. I may change up the schedule a bit and insulate and board the walls with the OSB before putting the roof on so the structure is as strong and rigid as it can be...thats a lot of weight up there!!!
 
Hi Guys

Progress has slowed due to social stuff and waiting on materials but I had a question I was hoping for some advice on.

I think I need to install some flashing above the window as the window trim extends out further than the bottom edge of the cladding that will be fitted above it. If I dont put any flashing there water will drip off the bottom edge of the cladding onto the window trim board and then back inside.

I'm thinking the flashing needs to be fixed behind the cladding, extending out past the bottom edge, and over the window trim, taking any water out over the window and also creating a drip edge.

Assuming I need to do this (I'm sure someone will tell me if I dont :D ) can anyone recommend a good material. I was looking at a 100mm wide sheet of lead but at £40 for 4 meters I'm wondering if there anything cheaper that will also do the job?

As an aside, I'm not intending on flashing the window opening before I put in the window (a la This Old House) as I've not seen anyone on the forum do it...is that also correct?

Should hopefully have some photos and an update for you next weekend.
Cheers
Hully
 
I use a pentice board rather than a flashing. This fixes neatly to the top of the vertical pieces either side of the window opening, if you cut a small slope to the top of them. The boarding is then cut around this. If you're clever with your battening, the pentice board can go all the way back to the face of the studwork/ breather membrane, making water ingress very unlikely.
 
So, I was expecting some wood movement and for the joints to open up slightly...but while checking over the wall which gets sun for most of the day I've found some of the field joints, that were as tight as a nun's chuff, have opened up to leave gaps that in some cases are around 8mm wide!!!!!!!

Nothing I can do about it now but need some expert advice on what to do gents. I was expecting to use a latex caulk for small gaps but 8mm seems too big for just caulk? In the worst cases I'm thinking I could maybe insert a 4mm wide piece of cladding to help fill the majority of the gap and then flood the rest of it with caulk. If the gap closes up when the weather gets wet that should allow for the boards to expand again?

What do you guys think?

In other news, roof membrane and battens are going up so will get out a proper update over the weekend.
 
What joints, where?

Bear in mind that the boarding is essentially a rainscreen. It isn't supposed to be 100% watertight. The principle is that it keeps almost all the water out , and that any that finds a way in has got an easy way out. This is the whole point of battening out outside the wall membrane (remember, this is one of the key, key features that distinguishes a proper workshop from a cheap shed). There is an air-supply behind the boards, so if those joints have got a bit big and water gets in, it will readily dry out.

Having said that, 8mm is quite large, and would be unsightly, so let's see if it can be fixed.
 
Mike G":14xspbsg said:
What joints, where?
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Hi Mike

There are a few field joints and some joints where the cladding meets the trim that have opened up to around 8mm. There dont appear to be any issues on the front of the building (at least not yet) so I dont mind too much if the fix looks a bit rough if it does a good job of keeping the water out as much as possible.

This is probably the worst field joint:



Thanks in advance for the advice Mike.
Cheers
Hully
 
There really is something odd going on there, because timber doesn't really shrink along its length.

I'd consider prising the board above up a little, then taking out one of the short boards, and either replacing the whole thing to the correct length, or cutting it back to the next stud location and cutting in a shorter infill piece. But before I did that, I'd want to know why the gap had opened up in the first place. Whereabouts on the shed is that joint?
 
Hully - I have exactly the same. Mine were tight when I finished the cladding and now I have similar gaps. I am comforted by the fact that I made the interior, ie membrane etc as bullet proof as possible so the rainscreen effect should protect me. I also have approx 300mm eaves overhang inc gutters, so actually all but the hardest driving rain falls wide of the cladding anyway. Not so much on the gables though.

When you bear in mind I used 4.2m lengths 8mm shrinkage, same as yours, as a proportion of the whole isn't a huge shrinkage. And the gaps are greatest on the longest boards. My understanding was that whilst shrinkage is mostly across the grain; it does occur to much more limited extent along the grain. And softwoods more so.

Let me know any ideas you come up with. :D
 
Hmmm.........this is leaving me scratching my head. My workshop hasn't had any butt joints open up. The black barn I built 25 years ago had 3 or 4 boards cup badly enough to pull the nails out, but the only shrinkage gaps were around the verticals at the corners and the window surrounds, which had obviously shrunk. None of the butt joints between boards has opened at all. Same with my 6m long lounge wall here. It's not like my boards were special.........they're often soaking wet when supplied.
 
Are we sure it's not what they're nailed into that hasn't moved thus moving the nails apart...?

Cheers
Mark


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
This also happened in a couple of places on the workshop I built at my old house. Only occurred on the sunny s/west side of the building. I had small squares of black DPC under the joints and the workshop was painted black so I just left them and experienced no problems. No longer live there now though

Mark
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys, its reassuring to hear I'm not the only one this has happened too.

Dan - you're right mate, 8mm over 4.2m isnt a huge amount, but I've still got some a big holes in my wall :D

Bear - I need to go around an have a proper look but at first glance it looks to be a similar situation to yours -only happening on the wall that gets all the sun.

Mike - cutting out to the next stud and putting in a short board is a good suggestion, thanks. But not sure if I'll have enough spare cladding to do all the gaps. I'll have to have a look once the final section on the back is clad in the next week. If I dont, would a small patch/caulk job be good enough do you think...even if its for the short term (1-2 years)?
 
I'd advocate slipping a piece of DPM under the open joints, so that anything which gets in is directed out fairly quickly. This will involved getting a couple of nails out first. Brick movement joints are designed at 10mm, entirely filled with caulking, so yes, it is certainly possible to fill the gaps this way.
 
Just a thought - I used Larch, as did Dave and I think this is, (all had shrinkage) Mike didnt, I don't think; - could that be a cause - is movement increased in Larch for any reason? :D
 
Shrinkage would also be dependent on moisture content which could have increased with wet weather, storage etc etc

Rod
 
I didn't use larch I used pressure treated softwood painted with Bedec and I also got this. Can't remember how wet they were, this was about 10 years ago.

Mark
 
Hi All

Apologies for the lack of comms recently. I've made some decent progress over the last couple of weeks so time for an update.

The cladding is now finished. The last few boards have been primed and installed on the back. I also put the last row up on the front...more on that in a minute. I've not gone round and caulked the dreaded shrink induced gaps yet. I have a few decent off cuts so will try caulking the gaps first and then replace the worst offenders if the caulk doesn't work. Painting will be done at the back end of the summer.

I'd been waiting to put up the last row of cladding on the front as I wasn't sure what to do with the flashing for the top of the window and door. I eventually decided to go with Aluminium so bought a 150mm wide roll and fashioned a couple of flashing's. Not as neat as using a break but not bad for a hammer, some clamps and a couple of bits of wood. This is probably overkill seeing as they're right under the eaves/sofit.





I've also put up most of the membrane and battens on the roof. I was hoping to have this finished over the weekend but frustratingly ran of battens. I need to up my Quantity Surveyor game!! :D Battens are on order so hoping to be fully covered next week. Insulation and OSB is also on order so I'll be boarding out the inside next in preparation for the tiles.



Cheers
Hully
 
Looks cracking Hully - You will be grateful of the big window and door in future. I was given a huge workbench this week and slid it straight in through my door that would have been too small as a standard door. :D
 
Dan0741":3mi2bit2 said:
Looks cracking Hully - You will be grateful of the big window and door in future. I was given a huge workbench this week and slid it straight in through my door that would have been too small as a standard door. :D
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Cheers Guys.

Dan - Given a workbench! Lucky chap. Have you posted a picture on your thread? A proper Roubo style bench is on my to do list but unlikely to be started for a couple of years yet. :D
 
Nothing beautiful matey - but fully functioning and i may change the top if i get time. I fancy a posh workbench also but im afraid i would damage it and it wouldn't look fantastic for long. The samurai carpenter one on utube would be my choice if i had the skill money and time. :D
 
Hi All

Big gap since my last update (its becoming a running theme with this build) so apologies. I'm splitting my time between the workshop build and renovating a couple of bedrooms in the house before our second kid arrives in September so the workshop has taken a bit of a back seat over the last month.

I've made some pretty good progress though so wanted to drop out a quick update. I've now insulated and boarded out the walls so we're ready for the tiles to go up. These should be arriving next week so hoping to have them all on by the end of the month. I also have the french doors so hoping to get them in this weekend if I have the time.

Cheers



 
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