Improving a stock-bought 10 x 6 shed.

[Loghead]

Hi Folks.

I am in sore need of extra space for some of the 'clutter' in my workshop.
I have space in my rear yard for a 10 x 6 shed. I could build one from scratch, (A very attractive idea) but it would take me so long, that I doubt I would have it up and running before next Spring, if then.

So I had the idea of buying a mid-range shed, and 'tarting it up', by strengthening the framework with 50mm square pressure treated timber. I want to apply some kind of water-damp proof membrane to it, and also insulate the whole structure inside with an economical sheet such as OSB, or even plasterboard.
I have even considered over-cladding the exterior with a beefier tongue and groove match-board applied vertically; and definitely a stronger, purpose made door.

I know a self-build would be superior, but I am in my mid-70s, and whilst I am an optimist, I am not so much so that I can reasonably expect much more than ten years more woodworking; if I am lucky.

So I think an after-sale, modified shed would be my best route. I want to get moving asap, and any ideas would be welcome. For instance: Would large 'blister-pack' be suitable for insulation? (Nice and affordable) Would Polystyrene be a dearer but better choice. What can I use to damp-proof the cladding, without stripping it all off first?

Finally, I have found a shed that looks to be suitable :

http://www.shedsworld.co.uk/p/Wincheste ... x_Shed.htm
I am not purposely doing thios 'on-the-cheap, and I know could find a better shed. However, I feel that with proper strengthening, for the money, this would outlast me!

Over to you folks.

Thanks in anticipation-eering!

LH (John)

 

[Mike G]

The very first thing you can do to make a pre-made shed better is to erect it on a plinth. Get the base of it up off the ground. Best on bricks or blocks. A long way second best is to just raise the wooden floor off the ground on some pads/ blocks/ paving slabs or whatever. See if you can buy it without the floor.

The second thing is to insulate it, and please, please don't use polystyrene for this. The stuff is a death trap in a fire. It's a rubbish product. Better to just use ordinary mineral wool/ fibreglass, although Celotex (PIR board) is twice as good an insulant, at over twice the price.

Thirdly, remember that the vapour barrier goes on the inside, not the outside. Remember too, that OSB or ply is a damn good vapour barrier, because of the amount of glue in it. You're unlikely to need to strengthen the frame if you line the inside well with either product.

Finally, and I'm not sure I would, you could take the boards off, wrap a breather membrane around the frame, then fix counterbattens over the frame to form a ventilated cavity, before refitting your boards. Don't forget insect mesh, otherwise you'll be sharing your building with bees, wasps or hornets. Frankly, in my view if you are to go to the trouble of doing all of that you would have been better off in terms of time and effort just building your own shed from scratch.

I have two bought sheds in the garden of the house I have just moved into. When I have time I will be building concrete bases for them, building 2-brick-high plinths, and lifting the old sheds onto their new bases. Where they are now rotting and in their last year or two of useful life, full of vermin and damp, they'll be clean, dry, and likely to last 20 years or more.

 

[Loghead]

Thank you Mike.

I already have 4x2 pressure treated timber set aside for a plinth; because whichever way I decided to go, I wanted the shed lifted clear of the ground. My yard is paved with concrete slabs, so I was going to lay down some roofing felt as a DPM, on which to set the plinth.

I certainly would love to build the shed from scratch, but as I said, I am in my mid 70's now, and I think it really would take too long; always assuming I could cope with the lifting and climbing that will be needed.

I have a son who could do the 'grunt' work, but he is a Mechanic and not a woodworker! So again, it could take sometime. Hence my plan to have a shed erected by the supplier, and then I can just about cope with the extra 'fol-de-rols'!

I do appreciate your advice Mike, and I shall be following up on your suggestion for insulation, whichever way I go. Come to think, a plinth might also rescue the 6 x 4 shed I use as a garden tool storage!


bscene-drinkingcheers:


Thanks again :text-goodpost:

 

[Mike G]

....... I was going to lay down some roofing felt as a DPM, on which to set the plinth...........

This could be worse than not having a DPM at all. A DPM on the ground is going to hold all the water that falls onto it. Your damp course should be on top of the plinth, and underneath the shed base. However, as the shed and the base are both going to be made of wood, there is no point having a DPM between 2 pieces of wood..........ever. Much better to have some masonry on the ground, such as bricks or blocks, paving slabs or cast concrete, and put your damp course on top of that before building the shed on top.

 

[Loghead]

Okay Mike.

I wasn't thinking again! Looks like I found a use for some engineering bricks I've had lying about for a few years.

Much obliged for your help.

Regards

LH (John) bscene-drinkingcheers:

 

[Mike G]

If they really are engineering bricks, rather than semi-engineering, then you won't need a damp course with them. Engineering bricks are to all intents and purposes impermeable. Much the best solution offered do far!