Jigs to aid hand planing

[Lons]

I chanced across this youtube video recently and struck me how a relatively simple, easy to make jig could be very useful for anyone who struggles to plane edges square. or even just to speed things up with less checking perhaps.

You would need to click the "watch on Youtube" link

 

[Cabinetman]

Seems quite a sensible idea, slips on with no fuss or tools so it could be to hand and give square edge results time and again, not sure I shall be bothered though.

 

[Lons]

I feel the same Ian but for beginners who struggle maybe? I might make one up for my son if I have nothing better to do as he's hopeless with a plane.
I've since seen a rougher version from an Australian bloke, simpler to make as it's two peices. You know how youtube throws up links once you've looked at one.

 

[AndyP]

While I was watching the vid I thought for a novice (me included) making it with two pieces would be easier than cutting a rebate and using a shoulder plane .

 

[Lons]

While I was watching the vid I thought for a novice (me included) making it with two pieces would be easier than cutting a rebate and using a shoulder plane .

Here's the Aussie video I saw Andy.

 

[SamQ aka Ah! Q!]

It's not a completely novel idea. There is a clamp-on Stanley appurtance from mid last centuary. Now sells at eye-watering prices to coll***tors. Veritas had a sexy black one in ribbed aluminium (I think) some years ago, and so on.
For hashers like me that have difficulty directing their strength to keep the plane level, it's "a querr gude wee gadget, hi!".
Incidentally, a cheaper way to achieve the same result is to study Saint Charlesworth of Devon's methodology vdeos. The one where he puts his thumb behind the fore knob, but in front of the blade, is spot on. His plane speed, just barely faster than a snail, is also crucial. "Having at it" like an orangutan on speed is counter-productive. Don't ask me how I know that!
Sam

 

[Woodbloke]

Similarly, I saw a hand planing jig recently for producing components for Japanese 'kumiko' patterns. I've done a wee bit of this work and whilst at a simple level it's not difficult to do, it is difficult to do well and for that to happen all the pieces need to be exactly the same thickness - Rob

 

[Mike G]

......The one where he puts his thumb behind the fore knob, but in front of the blade, is spot on. His plane speed, just barely faster than a snail, is also crucial.....

Yep. And that's one of the reasons this is hard to do with shorter planes, such as a No.4, where there is nothing flat behind the knob. I had occasion a few days ago to do it with my new No.7, and it is actually so long that I found it easier to put my thumb in front of the knob rather than behind.

All of these techniques, including use of the guides as per these videos, rely on the workpiece being high enough above the vice to give you some "face" to reference. I doubt there are many woodworkers who haven't bashed their knuckles into the end of their vice attempting to do it with a piece of slightly-too-narrow stock because it saves 10 seconds in getting the shooting board out.

 

[SamQ aka Ah! Q!]

Yep. And that's one of the reasons this is hard to do with shorter planes, such as a No.4, where there is nothing flat behind the knob. I had occasion a few days ago to do it with my new No.7, and it is actually so long that I found it easier to put my thumb in front of the knob rather than behind.

Too true Mike; I've got big paws (ask RogerS or Lons) and I do perzactly that. I quoted D.C. with some verisimilitude to preserve the provenance of his point of view. Obviously, it doesn't hold for all human physiology and the vagaries of plane body shape.
I've also got long enough fingers to emulate D.C.'s 'finger-fence" by curling my digits underneath....my father remarked on me doing it, and absent-mindedly copied me on a hand-held power planer...boy, did he jump! Glad I was a First Aider for 37 years...stains everywhere.

May I please also thank you for all the effort you put in all year, syntheising designs, then executing same, before posting here to stimulate and inspire the rest of us plebs?
Happy Christmas to all at Chéz Garnham!

 

[TrimTheKing]

Am I missing something...? There's no video for me in the original post...

EDIT : Ignore that, it's appeared, but wasn't there initially! Odd!

 

[Accipiter]

Am I missing something...? There's no video for me in the original post...

EDIT : Ignore that, it's appeared, but wasn't there initially! Odd!

I see the same "image" of a 502 error... if that's what you mean?

@Lons ... you wouldn't have the link for posting again would you? (It may just be a delay of some sort and rectify itself )

EDIT: AH! I did a "refresh" of the page and then got a different image saying "playback on other sites disabled by owner... " then these mention of *Play on YouTube* .... also the same 502 error on the second video link - a refresh would probably bring up the same message about "disabled playback..."

 

[Mike G]

......May I please also thank you for all the effort you put in all year, syntheising designs, then executing same, before posting here to stimulate and inspire the rest of us plebs?
Happy Christmas to all at Chéz Garnham!

That's terribly kind of you Sam, and very much appreciated. Same to you and yours.

 

[Lons]

That's terribly kind of you Sam, and very much appreciated. Same to you and yours.

I'm sure most of us would echo Sam's comments Mike, I certainly do.

 

[TrimTheKing]

Absolutely! Mike is single handedly keeping the WIP's going...!

 

[Mike]

Incidentally, a cheaper way to achieve the same result is to study Saint Charlesworth of Devon's methodology vdeos. The one where he puts his thumb behind the fore knob, but in front of the blade, is spot on. His plane speed, just barely faster than a snail, is also crucial.

Yep. And that's one of the reasons this is hard to do with shorter planes, such as a No.4, where there is nothing flat behind the knob. I had occasion a few days ago to do it with my new No.7, and it is actually so long that I found it easier to put my thumb in front of the knob rather than behind.

I was a disciple of Saint Charlesworth of Devon and attended all of his courses. In the Tool Tuning course, he corrected my poor planing method and let me borrow the thumb guard from his seldom used No. 4 plane. The thumb guard was a short length of clear flexible tubing that was slit lengthwise. It fit on the bridge behind the knob and provided a soft place to rest the thumb. The only plane that didn't require this was the No. 5-1/2 because there was enough room for the thumb to rest flat on the base of the plane.

 

[SamQ aka Ah! Q!]

Nice extra detail, Mike, thank you.

 

[Accipiter]

I chanced across this youtube video recently and struck me how a relatively simple, easy to make jig could be very useful for anyone who struggles to plane edges square. or even just to speed things up with less checking perhaps.

You would need to click the "watch on Youtube" link

Now I've been able to watch it that's an excellent tutorial video - thank you Bob . Another job aded to my to do list - after the workshop and after doing the remedial renovation works to my (sadly rusted - after getting rained on with a leaking roof unbeknownst to me at the time) planes... Hate to admit publicly . Thanks to the forum I know where to start to renovate them and get to use them again. I must have had them for 56~57 years!

 

[thetyreman]

Similarly, I saw a hand planing jig recently for producing components for Japanese 'kumiko' patterns. I've done a wee bit of this work and whilst at a simple level it's not difficult to do, it is difficult to do well and for that to happen all the pieces need to be exactly the same thickness - Rob

+1 a thicknessing jig makes jobs like that 10x easier.