• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Jimmy Mack's NEW WORKSHOP

Looking good, you could fit double glazed glass panels easily enough into a simple wood surround, they aren’t all that expensive at trade prices. But your poly idea is reasonable as well.
 
Jimmy Mack":1qh8282e said:
A smoke alarm would be prudent .
Click to expand...
It was recommended I went for for a smoke & heat detector which is wired to the shop alarm so rings me should it go off I also got a couple of fire extinguishers at the same time.

If I was to have a remote workshop I’d consider a couple of cameras as well, they don’t have to be expensive & can give added reassurance
 
Just an idea but now may be too late, if building a stud wall behind the shutter door, why not put in some cheap pvc windows, or better still a large French door, both leaves open so you have enough room for big machines, its similar to what I have done.
 
Wooden top - yes, I'll try and get some windows in the doors.

I'm going to leave the partition till Oct. Get up and running first, circumstances are pressing.

A few progress shots to date.

Mezzanine going in today. I've off-set the mid post slightly 60/40.

Noggins and osb deck tom, centre post needs fixing off too.

The posts are two 4x2" c16 glued and clamped up. I'll either fix a web of ply either side at top or more likely sandwich with 4x2s to create a bridle joint and bolt through beam. Floor fix is a metal post socket.

The LHS beam is packed up on slate. RHS off a post as discussed. Technically, should the joists in contact with the rear wall be sat on a bit of plastic /DPC to stop capillary action rotting the corner, or perhaps this is for ground floor suspended floors?


Landlord is going to set me up with a unit counter and bill me for usage...a real boon as this will save over 10% on the Prepay system!


JimIMG_20230728_130543061_HDR.jpgIMG_20230801_123949007.jpgIMG_20230801_162021555.jpgIMG_20230801_162032009.jpg

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LIGHTING

(6000k daylight)

I'm going for some 4ft led double ip rated battens for the upper mezz and open space, as per my last shop.

Under the mezzanine I'd like lights that are flush with the soffit/ underside. (Height 2.1m)

I'm considering those LED panels...any tips/ thoughts on these?

I'm also wondering whether to hang the full height open space lights off cables or fix to the wall. (glare?)

Jim

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Jimmy
I used the 600x600mm flat panel LED'S
The one's I used where 30watt 3800 Lumens 4000 Kelvin . I personally can't work with 6000k, it hurts my head if I look at it directly.
I have 36 panels in the shed, in 6 different zones. Never have them all on together, there bright! and low consumption.

I would recommend having multiple switching points, makes life easier.

I've got a meeting with a LED guru tomorrow morning, if you have any questions you would like me to ask, fire them over.

Jonathan

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That's an interesting point about the Kelvins and sensitivity, Jonathan. I wondered if a lower K might be more comfortable.

I suppose a handy question might be how many 1200x300mm (3800lm) panels across an area of 21.6 sqm (3.6 x 6m)?

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I will ask...... what is the ceiling heights on the main assembly area?

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Jimmy Mack":3n1ipqx8 said:
......should the joists in contact with the rear wall be sat on a bit of plastic /DPC to stop capillary action rotting the corner.....
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Three metres up in the air? Pointless. The wall will be dry that far up even if was damp at the base.
 
Jimmy should be photo attached with a suggestion on lighting layout.

It was suggested you get lamps with as high a lumens as possible.

If you want to see true colour rendering 4000k is daylight and go as high a CRI as you can +95 is good, but I know from past experience trying to light works of art, high CRI is big bucks.

If you go 6000k it was suggested you might not get good colour rendering, apparently it is missing the reds.......all completely over my head.

I will try and attach an image of my shed lighting to try and give an idea.
The lamps are 29.5w 3800 lumens and 4000k, absolutely no idea how much CRI. These are cheap Chinese lamps.
d879351338d9af87d4f886e8f3fc3c31.jpg
1fa8a26b5c96a1134330d1d078d021a8.jpg


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Yes sorry, 600x600mm

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Jonathan":o8b9p21f said:
Yes sorry, 600x600mm

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Click to expand...
Thanks. That's a nice sized space you have too. Looking at it, and seeing as mine is quite low, I shall white wash the lower ceiling too.

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I moved into my previous place in a rush and no time to paint the concrete walls and ceiling. The grey concrete absorbed a slot of light.
So when I built my present shed I went mad with the white, it definitely helps with lighting the place.

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Regarding lighting, there is some debate over the Kelvin number that corresponds to daylight (because it’s really a range dependent on time of day and weather), but personally I go for 5000K as daylight equivalent and a nice energising light to work in.

Here’s a few values for comparison:
https://www.ucl.ac.uk/slade/know/746

5000K is relevant for CRI which uses 5000K as the cutoff between where CRI uses incandescent light vs daylight as the reference (approximately).

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-CRI_LED_lighting
 
Some lower insulation today, 50mm polystyrene with 11mm OSB.

When it's done I'll spray the space with some white emulsion. Grey to the concrete floor.IMG_20230804_115443840.jpgIMG_20230804_124637819.jpgIMG_20230804_152519307.jpg

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It’s looking really good, I would talk to your farmer, he might give you a free month or two for hugely improving his barn, worth a try even though farmers aren’t renowned for their altruism.
He might even pay you to improve his other units so that he can charge more rent for them, might be dangerous to put that thought in his head though lol.
Ian
 
I feel the one bonus, is it's shown my commitment and he's recently happy to not sting me with the Prepay meter.

Technically I've increased the sq/m [emoji2958] with the mezz fixed to the walls.


I loathe this kind of work (insulation), my back is a state from messing with the ceiling. Though the mezz was fun, so quick!

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Well done Jimmy, always exciting to see new work spaces come together.

I hope you keep posting when you get back to creating in your new space.

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Thanks Jonathan, I hope to be more active, the help I had building "Jimmy Mack's workshop" (thread, circa 2016) was invaluable. And 9 Fingers Bob assisted on some of the electrical queries. It's a generous community. Life got a bit in the way is my (feeble) excuse.


I'm delighted with the 2 week progress to date, it's a bit slap-dash but very much fit for purpose. I look forward to making it look a bit more homely or "Pretty" which raised an eyebrow with the farmer when I said this. [emoji1]

I'll be doing a bit more today then it's two weeks break for the kiddies summer hols.

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Last bit for now, hard to make out but 10mm twin wall polycarbonate fixed up. Needs a clean from the outside.

Andy, I'll be making furniture & cabinetry and other things, it's my main income.IMG_20230806_135320052.jpgIMG_20230806_135329025.jpg

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Hi Jimmy, now comes the really exciting bit moving all your equipment racks and cupboards in!
Haven’t noticed any electrics yet, when my commercial furniture workshop like yours suffered the attentions of the Fire Brigade next door and water flooded down inside my building, (can’t complain my building would have burnt down as well without them) but the consequence was that the water ran down the wires straight into the fuse isolator box, when I had it all redone - it took weeks! I got the electricians to put a U bend in the wires so that any water in future would drip behind the box which I brought off the wall a little, well worth it imo.
Another way would be to have the wiring go into the bottom of the box of course.
Ian
 
Jimmy
did u buy or rent the sprayer....
started to look at buying one......
due to my holiday rental we tend to repaint the outside every other year.....and touch up full walls when ness....
the inside, esp kitchen an living room gets done every year but by hand...dont need the mess......

They seemed to be priced from £500 to £3,000.........
thanks
 
Hi Ian and Clogs,

I've run the socket ring circuit (below), and next week is the lights... then paint floor and move in... Exciting stuff. Stairs, balustrades, insulated shutter end wall and other details will go in over time, once I get some work under the belt.


The fuse box /DB was wall mounted by landlord, all cables enter through the bottom.

The airless sprayer is a Graco gxff, probably around the £900 mark, I use it for all my furniture finishing, it's very simple to use and I get a great finish with it, much easier than hvlp & conventional (imo)... Though it does put a lot of product on, I'd like to upgrade to a AAA (air assist). This was the first time with a larger spray tip and emulsion, I normally use specialist furniture spray paints by Morrells or Symphony.

Cheers
IMG_20230823_201310884.jpgIMG_20230823_200055318.jpgIMG_20230823_201258905.jpg

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Ready for some seal and a lick of floor paint today.

Then I can move in [emoji4], before addressing the stud wall in front of the roller shutter end


That bay light at the front will become a pair split across the front, landlord is installing these.IMG_20230901_153020184.jpgIMG_20230901_152852817.jpg

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Looks ready for furniture!


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I've done THAT wall, the one in front of the shutter.

I was going to put doors in but now I'm thinking a curtain would be more practical, as the operational footprint is smaller.

I'm thinking something along the lines of an old fabric theatre curtain (rather than vinyl strips?) But unsure where to source such a thing.

Any other thoughts on this?IMG_20230920_121255075.jpgIMG_20230920_132120287.jpg

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Is it possible to do some insulated doors on rollers between your new wall and the outside wall to avoid loosing extra floor space, but providing better insulation than curtains?


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