this was in the box but I cannot find a reference to it in the manual. What's it for?
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kapex KS60 what's this for?
- Thread starter AndyP
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Google the barcode maybe?
Bob
Bob
I'd tried that Bob, a load of references in German but not a lot of help.
I am sure Malc or Roger will know
I am sure Malc or Roger will know
Looks like the spring goes over the rod then tightens down into something. Is it not a spare for one that's already there? Or look for a hole that matches the size of the thread and see if it looks right...
Sorry Malc I know i can be a bit slow on the uptake sometimes but I still do not get it.
A found the accessory on the Feestol site
https://www.festool.co.uk/accessory/500 ... -sys-ks-60.
I fitted the four feet to raise the Kapex, I have not got a systainer but the extra height is good for the cabinet it is on. So why do I need the threaded knob and spring?
Do you use yours? Any chance of a piccy?
I won't be able to get out to the workshop today so not at all urgent. I am just curious.
A found the accessory on the Feestol site
https://www.festool.co.uk/accessory/500 ... -sys-ks-60.
I fitted the four feet to raise the Kapex, I have not got a systainer but the extra height is good for the cabinet it is on. So why do I need the threaded knob and spring?
Do you use yours? Any chance of a piccy?
I won't be able to get out to the workshop today so not at all urgent. I am just curious.
OK Malc, got it 
So that threaded knob and spring needs to be fitted underneath the swinging arm with or without the systainer levelling feet. I did not realise that it needed added support. I will have to enlarge the cabinet top with a curved bit like what you have done.
So that threaded knob and spring needs to be fitted underneath the swinging arm with or without the systainer levelling feet. I did not realise that it needed added support. I will have to enlarge the cabinet top with a curved bit like what you have done.
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Corectomundo.... Takes up flex... Your table is now exactly the same height as a Systainer 1 (box) for supporting long sections, for when you're on the deck wrecking your knees [emoji123]
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Malc2098
Sequoia
Sorry about the formatting. I did my best!
10.1 Bevel SM-KS60 (available as an accessory depending on the model)
The bevel can be used to gauge any angle (e.g. between two walls). The bevel therefore forms the angle bisection.
Gauging the interior angle [14A]
Open the locking device [14-2].
Swivel the router [14-1] out in order to gauge the interior angle.
Close the locking device.
The dashed mark [14-4] provides the angle bisection.
The angle bisection can be transferred via the
outside edges of the bevel to the position markings
>|< on the rotary base.
Gauging the exterior angle [14B]
Open the locking device [14-2].
Slide the aluminium profiles [14-3] on the router
forwards.
Swivel the router [14-1] out so that the aluminium
profiles are at the exterior angle.
Close the locking device.
Slide the aluminium profiles for the two routers
back again.
Transferring the angle [15]
Place the angle bevel perfectly in place on one
of the stop rulers .- press with your thumb.
Release the rotary knob .
Hook in the detent lever .
Swivel the rotary base , until the outside
edge of the bevel is congruent with the marking
.
(info) To do so, the bevel must be positioned so that it
is parallel to the stop of the compound mitre
saw. At the same time, apply pressure to the
stop ruler by pressing in the recessed grip with
your thumb.
Close the rotary knob , remove the angle
bevel.
The angle is transferred, the sawing process can be
started.
10.1 Bevel SM-KS60 (available as an accessory depending on the model)
The bevel can be used to gauge any angle (e.g. between two walls). The bevel therefore forms the angle bisection.
Gauging the interior angle [14A]
Open the locking device [14-2].
Swivel the router [14-1] out in order to gauge the interior angle.
Close the locking device.
The dashed mark [14-4] provides the angle bisection.
The angle bisection can be transferred via the
outside edges of the bevel to the position markings
>|< on the rotary base.
Gauging the exterior angle [14B]
Open the locking device [14-2].
Slide the aluminium profiles [14-3] on the router
forwards.
Swivel the router [14-1] out so that the aluminium
profiles are at the exterior angle.
Close the locking device.
Slide the aluminium profiles for the two routers
back again.
Transferring the angle [15]
Place the angle bevel perfectly in place on one
of the stop rulers .- press with your thumb.
Release the rotary knob .
Hook in the detent lever .
Swivel the rotary base , until the outside
edge of the bevel is congruent with the marking
.
(info) To do so, the bevel must be positioned so that it
is parallel to the stop of the compound mitre
saw. At the same time, apply pressure to the
stop ruler by pressing in the recessed grip with
your thumb.
Close the rotary knob , remove the angle
bevel.
The angle is transferred, the sawing process can be
started.
Jimmy Mack
Old Oak
Maybe Festool Phil can help?...( From 3m55s )RogerS":urj8scbs said:
https://youtu.be/YjgZPWedypE
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Malc2098":2f9kc8sp said:
When I did Russian 'o' level my teacher could never understand why my written homework was so colloquially perfect..in fact better than his Russian and yet my performance in class was crap. Me Mum did my homework :lol: