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MFT unit ideas?

Weekend_Woodworker

Weekend_Woodworker

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I have been in the process of building this unit for a while and am reasonably pleased with it so far.
image.jpg

I have a sheet of 18mm MRMDF to make the MFT top out of. The unit is just over 1.5 m wide and 60cm front to back. Most of the time I think 60cm will be fine, but I would like to be able to make it deeper front to back when cutting bigger sheets. I have 90mm of space at the top to allow space to get things that fall through the MFT holes, but would also like to use that space to store the extension to the top when not in use. I am also concerned that just supporting the MFT at either end, it is likely to sag, so will need stiffening somehow.

Therefore have you seen anyone doing anything similar or do you have any bight ideas about how I might make it work?

I know Pete Millard has an extension he can add to his, but I think that clamps to an apron coming across the front which would limit access below the MFT.

Thanks

Mark
 
Looking good. Sounds like what you need is a torsion box.

I believe I saw one in the Festool Owners Group.
 
Hi Malc, I am sure a torsion box would be stiff enough. The question is would two 45mm deep torsion boxes work, or do they need to be deeper than that? With 18mm MDF the tops and bottoms would take up 36mm depth giving 9mm for the webs. Then there is the question of how to attach and support the extension.

I guess I could get some thinner ply for the rest of the torsion box, but the lower surface might make it impossible to use rail clamps through the holes in the MFT top which I think some people do.
 
Weekend_Woodworker said:
Hi Malc, I am sure a torsion box would be stiff enough. The question is would two 45mm deep torsion boxes work, or do they need to be deeper than that? With 18mm MDF the tops and bottoms would take up 36mm depth giving 9mm for the webs. Then there is the question of how to attach and support the extension.

I guess I could get some thinner ply for the rest of the torsion box, but the lower surface might make it impossible to use rail clamps through the holes in the MFT top which I think some people do.
Click to expand...
'Fraid I don't know enough about the engineering of the box and how it's used to be able to advise, apart from the shorter the webs, the less stiff it's likely to be.
 
If it is acceptable to provide a link to UKW, here is my build thread for a 2 x 1 meter MFT-style workbench.

www.ukworkshop.co.uk

MFT-Style Workbench

1. Introduction One of the items missing from my workshop is a large flat work surface that can be used for assembly and fabrication. I have a wooden Sjöbergs workbench, but want to reserve it for hand tool use. It's location makes it of limited use since it is against the wall and I can't...
www.ukworkshop.co.uk www.ukworkshop.co.uk

My project was derived from a 8 x 4 foot version built by a member on the Festool Owners Group, but my shop is too small for such a large workbench. I used 19mm Valchromat, but was prepared to use 18mm MDF (MRMDF is not available here).
 
The extension could be a plain bit of ply, or the MRMDF that I have. The challenge (at least in my mind) is how to support it and ensure it is aligned with the fixed part consistently whilst avoiding sag.

Mike, I did wonder about using some aluminum section to support both. I probably have space for 20x20 on both parts, but not enough for 20x40. I had also wondered if there was a cheaper way of doing it.

I would have liked the Valchromat for the top, but they had no suitable offcuts at Avon Ply so went for MRMDF as it was less than half the price for a full sheet.
 
WWW, I would have used MRMDF had I been able to find a stocking distributor. I bought a full sheet of MDF and was a few days from cutting it down to use on my table when I found a local source of the Valchromat. Fortunately for me, the cost of the Valchromat was the same as the MDF and I had my choice of over a dozen colors in 19mm. I was tempted to go with the yellow or fuchsia, but decided black might be more forgiving with the abuse I was going to inflict on it.

If you build a torsion box as @Malc2098 suggested, then I think wooden supports would be fine. If using wooden supports, I would attach the MRMDF top to each of the supports with deep countersunk screws to lock them together. Just be aware of the locations in case you clip the tops with a saw or router bit. I didn't need to do this with my workbench because the extrusion does not flex, at least that I can notice.
 
Mike said:
WWW, I would have used MRMDF had I been able to find a stocking distributor. I bought a full sheet of MDF and was a few days from cutting it down to use on my table when I found a local source of the Valchromat. Fortunately for me, the cost of the Valchromat was the same as the MDF and I had my choice of over a dozen colors in 19mm. I was tempted to go with the yellow or fuchsia, but decided black might be more forgiving with the abuse I was going to inflict on it.

If you build a torsion box as @Malc2098 suggested, then I think wooden supports would be fine. If using wooden supports, I would attach the MRMDF top to each of the supports with deep countersunk screws to lock them together. Just be aware of the locations in case you clip the tops with a saw or router bit. I didn't need to do this with my workbench because the extrusion does not flex, at least that I can notice.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I wish I could get Valchtomat at the same price as MDF, unless your MDF is just very expensive!

I could build the top as a torsion box, but I think I would need the fully 90mm depth that I have which would then mean I don’t have any space to store the extension piece beneath the permanent top. Maybe I am trying to squeeze too much into too small a space, but I keep telling myself there must be a solution!
 
Could the extension be stored vertically against the wall at the back of the bench. I realise the bench will lose 90mm of depth, but it could be an option.
 
My 2p
Could a slid out extension support frame be slid out from within the main top rather like a drawer with sides and front only and a flat sheet of Ply/mdf etc be laid on top for time when you need a deeper surface. Presumably this is only a support surface for track cutting wide boards and has no need of the hole matrix or the precision of the main top.
 
Weekend_Woodworker said:
Thanks. I wish I could get Valchtomat at the same price as MDF, unless your MDF is just very expensive!
Click to expand...

Nearly four years ago, the price per square meter between the two was similar. I paid about €85 for a full sheet of 19mm Valchromat and about €80 for a full sheet of 18mm MDF. A sheet of 19mm Valchromat today from the same vendor is about €145 and the MDF is about €90.

If I was starting again knowing what I now know, I would still use the Valchromat. The original two coats of hard wax oil finish is still great and glue spills pop off easily. However, I would make significant changes to my workbench to incorporate features based on a visit I had from a Belgian commercial pilot who wanted to build a similar workbench.

For example, my design has dead space in the middle between the sliding shelves. I would make the shelves just deep enough to accommodate the Systainers, which would free up about 300mm of space between the backs of the shelves. This would open the center section for layered storage with access from the end with the power cable.

I would also abandon the 5mm HDPE sacrificial strip for the track saw. Instead, I would use 6mm MDF. I'm going to make this change to my workbench since it is easy to execute. I can't find 5mm MDF anywhere, but 6mm MDF is available at all of the local hardware stores.
 
Bob and Malc, I think between you, you have cracked it. I don’t know why I did think about hanging the extension top on the wall. I have put up a wood rack but there is still 60cm of wall height. I could then divide the 1.5m in half and use drawer runners for pull out supports for an 18mm top hung on the wall to be placed on. Many thanks
 
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