Mike builds a teardrop (cedar roof)

[Mike G]

Not even the tiniest patch on your masterpiece Mike but I found the mudguard design on this teardrop interesting. It occurred to me that a bit of modification could incorporate a step or even storage for wheel wedges, jack etc.

View attachment 55154

Yes, that's.....unusual. My first thought is that they would make getting in and out of the door slightly more awkward than it already is.

 

[Mike G]

I wanted the cedar strips which go up and over the roof to have a contrasting bottom end, following the theme of the side walls. I got out the same router jig I made for them some months ago, and did some random patterns on the ends of 14 strakes. The rest will be hidden behind a tongue box, in due course:









Unfortunately, when I was cleaning up one of them, the cedar strip snapped. I might have over-cut the edge of one of the housings for ash, maybe:



I haven't got enough of the long strips (3.6m) which do the whole length of the roof, so I couldn't afford to chuck this and make another. So, I flipped it over, cut out a bit on the back of each piece, and glued it together with a bit of ash:





Another part of the pattern is a pair of go-faster stripes. These are in ash, but with a bog oak contrasting strip on either side. I didn't have long enough pieces of ash, so I scarfed 2 together (times 2):



By pure fluke, the two strips fit really snugly side-by-side inside my aluminium channel straight-edge, so I glued them up and squeezed them in to keep everything straight:





The following day I prised them out and cleaned up:





The join is in an invisible location on top of the roof, otherwise I would have had to use a nib to give a neat square join line.

I had some off-cuts of bog oak left over after making the laminated galley-wall edges some months ago:



By pure luck, they are about the same thickness as the cedar strips. My plan was to glue them to the ash now, because I didn't fancy my chances of bending them into place whilst smeared in PU glue. They're only about 1.5m long, though, so they needed a join. I did a mitre/ scarf, simply so that a gap didn't open up as they are bent around a curve. It's not for strength. Thirty seconds with a chisel:



I glued them to the ash:



This is the back side. It's the other side which is flush.

I can do about an hour at a time now, so there is some visible progress. I glued and foamed 6 of the newly decorated strips into place. There are some real awkwardnesses about that, though. Firstly, trying to hold a 3.6m long floppy strip on edge on top of a curved roof whilst applying glue, with your forearms resting in the squeeze-out from the strips you've just put in place. Secondly, firing the foam in blind, as the gap is on the far side, away from you, and you have to point the foam gun towards yourself on the roof. It's OK when you're on the floor. Anyway, here's the photo:

 

[AndyT]

I really hope this all counts as physiotherapy Mike.

But it's good to see you back at it again, and it's lucky you didn't injure yourself when you were wrangling two ton oak beams - then you might have been tempted to really do too much too soon.

 

[Mike G]

Thanks Andy. Little steps....

 

[NickM]

Good to see you back at it.

We only have one iron and I often have to smuggle it into my workshop...

 

[Lons]

................We only have one iron and I often have to smuggle it into my workshop...

Dangerous practice.
Is it worth the risk of divorce when you can buy one at somewhere like ASDA for less than a tenner or charity shops and boot sales for 50p.

 

[Mike G]

First job was to clean up the go-faster stripe:



Then I steamed it to shape with a wet cloth and a hot iron:





My biggest issue with doing this roof was getting glue onto the edge of each strip. They're 3.6 metres long, and floppy, and balancing that on top of a curved roof was a recipe for getting covered in PU nastiness. I had a little think, and came up with a jig:



This is long enough to support the strip on edge, and holds it steady for me to focus on running a glue bead. I simply screw it onto a roof member, and slide the cedar strip along a couple of times to do the whole edge:



I fix 2 strips, then spray in the expanding foam. Any more and the foam cant reach the back. And repeat, and again, and again.....

I got to the go-faster stripe location, and that was a bit more of a struggle:





I left that to set for a couple of hours.....and my ankle needs regular rest.

I had realised I could just squeeze my head and shoulders through the roof-light hole, and that made spraying the foam an awful lot easier. I had been doing it over-hand, and blind, and now at last I could see what I was doing.

Here's my days effort:



I should explain that the pattern on the lower end of those roof pieces is the on the only part that is on show. The rest will be hidden by a 2 foot high storage box built onto the trailer tongue (note the black base board).

 

[Malc2098]

I don't think that's a go faster stripe.

I think it's a purling.

 

[PAC1]

Purfling as in a band around the edge of a violin.

 

[John Brown]

Surely go faster stripes align with the expected direction of travel... That's how they work!

 

[Cabinetman]

Well whichever it’s jolly nice.

 

[Mike G]

Surely go faster stripes align with the expected direction of travel... That's how they work!

Starsky and Hutch's didn't!

Anyway, this does. It goes up and over the roof.

 

[toolsntat]

Starsky and Hutch's didn't!

Anyway, this does. It goes up and over the roof.

"Go faster stripe"!
Mike, if you go any faster methinks you and Marty McFly will be rubbing shoulders....
Do us a favour, stop just before you have your fall

Andy

 

[John Brown]

Starsky and Hutch's didn't!

Anyway, this does. It goes up and over the roof.

Ok, I see it now, I just glanced at the photo and thought the strip went up the side and over....
Looks jolly good!

 

[Lons]

A bit more subtle than those on my wife's Mini. It looks classy on the teardrop

 

[Mike G]

A bit more subtle than those on my wife's Mini. It looks classy on the teardrop

Do you know where that gazebo/ roof thingy came from? The teardrop will be standing outside, and something like that would be perfect.

 

[AndyP]

Shelby stripes are what’s needed. I can just imaging the teardrop being towed behind at GT500.

How will all the that squeeze out be cleaned up?

 

[Mike G]

How will all the that squeeze out be cleaned up?

I'll be sanding the whole of the outside. You can see what that looks like, because the doors and the heartbeat have already been sanded. If it were a boat, the process would be called "fairing". (It isn't a boat. I have to keep reminding myself... )

There'll be a conversation about orbital sanders in due course.

 

[Lons]

Do you know where that gazebo/ roof thingy came from? The teardrop will be standing outside, and something like that would be perfect.

Yes Mike but I've had it a very long time and it's classed as a garage as it can be fully enclosed. It cost me £100 all that time ago and they still have similar in stock occasionally. It's standing against the front hedge at the minute and is very useful. You can buy from various sources in a variety of styles and sizes though good ones aren't cheap. Search for temporary garage or store room.
My mate bought a 10m x 4m which houses our old motorhome which I sold him. Clarkes brand from memory and it's stood all winter with no problems. I helped him put in a concrete block plinth to bolt down the feet which helps as it's quite exposed to wind from the sides. Mine is 6m x 3m

 

[Lons]

.........(It isn't a boat. I have to keep reminding myself... )

There'll be a conversation about orbital sanders in due course.

It could be if you turned it upside down. I suspect it's really just a project to practice techniques for you future boat build.

To preempt the ROS conversation I have a Metabo SXE 6" which I've had for years and swear by. It's had a great deal of use and gives excellent results especially when using Mirka Abranet disks. I bought it originally to finish and polish solid surface kitchen worktops to 600g but have used up to 1200g. Doesn't work well unless hooked up to a shop vac though.

 

[AndyP]

Every time I’ve used my Metabo ROS I have always felt it necessary to finish by hand, sanding with the grain to remove faint, but nonetheless visible, swirls.

 

[Mike G]

I can't remember what they're called.......and I haven't used mine for probably 20 years.....but I have a half-sheet sander which oscillates rapidly in something like a figure of 8 pattern. It takes rectangular pieces of sandpaper, which clamp in place at either end. What's the difference between that and those round ROS I've seen on Youtube?

 

[Lons]

I can't remember what they're called.......and I haven't used mine for probably 20 years.....but I have a half-sheet sander which oscillates rapidly in something like a figure of 8 pattern. It takes rectangular pieces of sandpaper, which clamp in place at either end. What's the difference between that and those round ROS I've seen on Youtube?

Obviously they run in a circular motion but also oscilate (if that's the correct term) so far less chance of scratches, some have 2 speeds. The final finish as with everything depends on grade of abrasive of course and I find that there's a big difference if you forget to turn the vac on I have an old half sheet sander like yours and it hasn't seen the light of day since I used it on a plastered wall years ago

I'm a bit surprised that Andy needs to finish by hand though. As I said I bought it to polish solid surface worktops mostly Corian and Mistral and can get a shiny scratch free finish using 600g Abranet and never personally had any issues with timber.

I also have a Dual action machine which is basically the same principle for detailing the car paintwork and I know some enthusiasts use an ROS instead. Sponge disks and polishing compound rater than abrasive.

 

[AJB Temple]

Purfling as in a band around the edge of a violin.

Surely violins don't have purfling. They have a raised carved lip that is part of the top and bottom carving. Guitars, especially acoustic, usually have purfling.

 

[AJB Temple]

ROS Mike, especially with vacuum attached, is immeasurably faster and gives a much better finish. Mine is Mirka. Brilliant tool. Do you want to borrow it?

 

[Lons]

Here's another pic of my temporary garage, it's been up over the winter and staying there for a while yet. My wife wasn't overjoyed but she's got used to it. You can get them in dark green which would have been better

 

[Malc2098]

I use a Festool Rotex 90 bought second hand for use on my instruments. Connected to an extractor, Festool, also bought second hand, the finish is exemplary. The 90mm round and holed self attached discs are not expensive.

 

[PAC1]

I use a Festool Rotex 90 bought second hand for use on my instruments. Connected to an extractor, Festool, also bought second hand, the finish is exemplary. The 90mm round and holed self attached discs are not expensive.

I have never got on with the Rotex.. I find the handle in the wrong place. I agree the finish is good.
Mike, A good ROS with 150mm discs with a backing pad for curved work is what you need.
I also like the Mirka. They now do a 50mm diameter Mirka and several small square and oblong sanders which are great for detail and small hard to reach areas.

 

[Pete Maddex]

Surely violins don't have purfling. They have a raised carved lip that is part of the top and bottom carving. Guitars, especially acoustic, usually have purfling.

Violins have an inlaid band called purfling guitars have binding round the edges of the body.

Pete

 

[Jonathan]

Mike you have a lot of sanding to do there so be careful in your choice of sander.
Research HAVS hand-arm vibration syndrome, it’s not pleasant.
I’ve used most sander over the last 40 years and my advice is don’t go cheap buy Mirka or Festool.
I have the Festool Rotex 150, ETS 150/5 and the RTS400.
My choice to do what you need to do is the ETS or a Mirka Deros and a good quality extractor.
Warning, is you borrow Adrian’s sander you most probably won’t want to give it back.

 

[Mike G]

ROS Mike, especially with vacuum attached, is immeasurably faster and gives a much better finish. Mine is Mirka. Brilliant tool. Do you want to borrow it?

Kind of you Adrian, thanks. I'll let you know. I plan on trying the belt sander first followed by a "torture board" (2-handed long sanding block). If that doesn't do it, I'll give you a shout.

 

[AJB Temple]

We're planning to be down your way soon Mike. In laws here currently. Just let me know. Top notch ROS is far better than a belt sander for getting a good finish. Just as quick. Obvs not when cleaning up green oak though.

 

[PAC1]

I would have thought a belt sander would put too much strain on your leg. A ROS probably will not, and do a better job

 

[Mike G]

I would have thought a belt sander would put too much strain on your leg. A ROS probably will not, and do a better job

Possibly. I'm wearing a really sophisticated boot to control to 2.5 degrees the amount of movement my foot can make, whilst at the same time allowing me to be fully weight-bearing. It's transformed my life, but I am still being very careful indeed (there are handles everywhere around the teardrop):



The limiting factor for what I can do at the moment is only how much my heel hurts, so I can do much more than I had expected. I think I'd be OK with a belt sander, although it will be a few days yet before I can find out.