Mike G":3d964j8t said:
Makes sense, thanks.
Mark
-
Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Mike's ext'n & renovation (solar panels)
- Thread starter Mike G
- Start date
Makes sense, thanks.
Mark
Commander
Sapling
Excellent progress Mike! I really enjoy easing everything come together!
chataigner":za716ygc said:
Is the bar upside down as well?
Tusses
Old Oak
Love this thread Mike
I might not comment much,
but it's all excellent work,
both quality, and speed of progress !
I might not comment much,
but it's all excellent work,
both quality, and speed of progress !
ScotlandtheDave
New Shoots
Andyp":2mbf9ufz said:
Chainsaw bars can be flipped to extend service life, as it distributes the wear on the rails to both top and bottom. the top rail hardly wears at all in normal cutting scenarios.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
chataigner":2rvn0eqp said:
I slackened it off deliberately when I last put it away, thinking I wouldn't use it until spring. So yes, I adjusted it before starting it up. And yes, the bar is flipped, too, as it was getting a little worn the other way up.
StevieB
Nordic Pine
I read that as a PC failure rather than a healthcare issue....
Steve
Steve
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2014
- Messages
- 10,414
- Reaction score
- 165
StevieB":3ch131hz said:
I'm sure that you are correct Steve! Maybe Roger needs to adjust the medication again! :lol:
Bob
DaveL
Old Oak
One of the group I cycle with got home to find the house smelling odd, the magic smoke had escaped from their pc power unit. Sometimes the rest of the machine is OK, but it can write off the whole machine at times.
kirkpoore1
Old Oak
DaveL":2fsqkwe2 said:
The hard drive usually survives, though, which means you can recover your data.
Kirk
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Well, we did as I said we'd do: had christmas in the dining room. Eleven fitted in with plenty of room to spare:
There are two or three regular lurkers in those photos. I forgot to take any photos of the WC, which was fully plumbed, and had walls, door, toilet roll holder and towel rail..........plus some dried flowers. Not bad for 2 days work!
I then had a day or two off, before taking the table apart and converting the dining room back into a workshop. Time for some more oak work. Next on the agenda was a beam running longitudinally along the line of the house which will form a key part of the structure of the stair opening, as well as being part of the facade of the downstairs loo. I had left this joint in the dining wall top plate:
I was not going to get a chance to offer the beam up into this joint and do any adjustments, so I had to get it spot-on first time. So I made an accurate template, and used this to form the pair of tenons:
Here is a really important joint further along the same beam. Remember this, because next week its purpose will become obvious:
Note the really big chamfer. This was forced on me by a nasty piece of damage to the timber (looks like the supplier dropped it). I couldn't hide it anywhere, so just chamfered it away. There are a lot of electrics to run through part of this beam:
The lift.
This is a 150 x 125 beam 3.6m long, so is just within the capabilities of one person to lift, an end at a time, but old fashioned rollers were a necessity for moving it into position to start the lift:
The lift was helped by having stuff to fasten to, so I clamped a horizontal on at the dining room end, and rested the beam on there, whilst the other end rested on a piece of 200x50 screwed to the temporary framing of the WC. This view is out of the dining room across the stairs and WC towards the study:
Later, from the other direction:
And finally, up. The double M&T joint fitted perfectly first time. The electrics took quite some time to fiddle into place:
It's a tight space, so awkward for photos. The next job was to install the 125x125 corner post, which was load bearing and so sat on its own special foundation (through a hole in the insulation and screed). Again, as with the similar post in the dining room, it was to sit on a couple of engineering bricks (with lead between brick and post to spread any point-load imperfections). I built a little mini-lever set up in the bottom of the hole, dropped the post in, then built a man-sized lever arrangement to lift it the 80mm into place in the mortice in the overhead beam:
Unfortunately, I had left too little tolerance to fit the bricks under! Idiot. It was an hour's work getting the post in, so I didn't want to take it out, shave 2mm off the end and then put it back again, and I had no way of acrowing the ceiling beam up a little. I rigged up another lever working on a small notch in the side of the post below finished floor level, and just bullied it up enough to squeeze the bricks in underneath:
After completing all the remainder of the framing you are about to see I then filled in with insulation and screed (note the adjacent door post of the loo):
The two loo door posts (125x125) were next, and they went in easily. I shaped the tenon to allow me to offer the post in at an angle, and left them about 10mm above the brick they were standing as they are non load-bearing, sitting temporarily just on wedges. I was planning to pack a strong concrete dry mix under them............but came up with a much better plan, which involved taking the posts back out again, and doing some work to the foot of each:
Sitting them on a 4x2 plate will enable me to fix them permanently in place simply by screwing and plugging to the brick below. This will control any tendency for the posts to twist as they dry (remember, this oak is freshly sawn, not seasoned).
Here is a bad photo of the loo door post in place below the new beam:
The study door and wall was much easier. I did a lap joint for the junction of its beam under the main beam I've just described erecting. This gives clearance for the electrics to run through an over-panel, and brings the door head to a much better height (I'll need an infill piece over the WC door). Again, my tolerances were too tight, so I ended up shaking the house somewhat with some big blows from a big hammer, but everything ended well:
I really like this happy little detail inside the study:
The edge of the post lining with the two chamfers pleases me. I'm that trivial sometimes.
Back to the dining room. I omitted to show the sticking on of some plasterboard over the blockwork of the plinth. Here it is:
I plastered the end section today, using a bonding plaster (a sort-of old-fashioned undercoat plaster, used for difficult surfaces). Depending on what it looks like dry, I want to use this as a top coat because I am after a rough look to this bit of the wall to replicate what you see of plinths in old buildings:
There are two or three regular lurkers in those photos. I forgot to take any photos of the WC, which was fully plumbed, and had walls, door, toilet roll holder and towel rail..........plus some dried flowers. Not bad for 2 days work!
I then had a day or two off, before taking the table apart and converting the dining room back into a workshop. Time for some more oak work. Next on the agenda was a beam running longitudinally along the line of the house which will form a key part of the structure of the stair opening, as well as being part of the facade of the downstairs loo. I had left this joint in the dining wall top plate:
I was not going to get a chance to offer the beam up into this joint and do any adjustments, so I had to get it spot-on first time. So I made an accurate template, and used this to form the pair of tenons:
Here is a really important joint further along the same beam. Remember this, because next week its purpose will become obvious:
Note the really big chamfer. This was forced on me by a nasty piece of damage to the timber (looks like the supplier dropped it). I couldn't hide it anywhere, so just chamfered it away. There are a lot of electrics to run through part of this beam:
The lift.
This is a 150 x 125 beam 3.6m long, so is just within the capabilities of one person to lift, an end at a time, but old fashioned rollers were a necessity for moving it into position to start the lift:
The lift was helped by having stuff to fasten to, so I clamped a horizontal on at the dining room end, and rested the beam on there, whilst the other end rested on a piece of 200x50 screwed to the temporary framing of the WC. This view is out of the dining room across the stairs and WC towards the study:
Later, from the other direction:
And finally, up. The double M&T joint fitted perfectly first time. The electrics took quite some time to fiddle into place:
It's a tight space, so awkward for photos. The next job was to install the 125x125 corner post, which was load bearing and so sat on its own special foundation (through a hole in the insulation and screed). Again, as with the similar post in the dining room, it was to sit on a couple of engineering bricks (with lead between brick and post to spread any point-load imperfections). I built a little mini-lever set up in the bottom of the hole, dropped the post in, then built a man-sized lever arrangement to lift it the 80mm into place in the mortice in the overhead beam:
Unfortunately, I had left too little tolerance to fit the bricks under! Idiot. It was an hour's work getting the post in, so I didn't want to take it out, shave 2mm off the end and then put it back again, and I had no way of acrowing the ceiling beam up a little. I rigged up another lever working on a small notch in the side of the post below finished floor level, and just bullied it up enough to squeeze the bricks in underneath:
After completing all the remainder of the framing you are about to see I then filled in with insulation and screed (note the adjacent door post of the loo):
The two loo door posts (125x125) were next, and they went in easily. I shaped the tenon to allow me to offer the post in at an angle, and left them about 10mm above the brick they were standing as they are non load-bearing, sitting temporarily just on wedges. I was planning to pack a strong concrete dry mix under them............but came up with a much better plan, which involved taking the posts back out again, and doing some work to the foot of each:
Sitting them on a 4x2 plate will enable me to fix them permanently in place simply by screwing and plugging to the brick below. This will control any tendency for the posts to twist as they dry (remember, this oak is freshly sawn, not seasoned).
Here is a bad photo of the loo door post in place below the new beam:
The study door and wall was much easier. I did a lap joint for the junction of its beam under the main beam I've just described erecting. This gives clearance for the electrics to run through an over-panel, and brings the door head to a much better height (I'll need an infill piece over the WC door). Again, my tolerances were too tight, so I ended up shaking the house somewhat with some big blows from a big hammer, but everything ended well:
I really like this happy little detail inside the study:
The edge of the post lining with the two chamfers pleases me. I'm that trivial sometimes.
Back to the dining room. I omitted to show the sticking on of some plasterboard over the blockwork of the plinth. Here it is:
I plastered the end section today, using a bonding plaster (a sort-of old-fashioned undercoat plaster, used for difficult surfaces). Depending on what it looks like dry, I want to use this as a top coat because I am after a rough look to this bit of the wall to replicate what you see of plinths in old buildings:
Lovely work as always Mike. Nice to see you gave yourself a nice long rest... [emoji23]
Cheers
Mark
Cheers
Mark
Phil
Old Oak
TrimTheKing":15yo3hy7 said:
:text-+1:
Just knew you would get far enough for the lunch
bscene-drinkingcheers:Commander
Sapling
Mike G":i58fi4vq said:I really like this happy little detail inside the study:
The edge of the post lining with the two chamfers pleases me. I'm that trivial sometimes.
I have to say I really like it as well! Caught my eye immediately! :eusa-clap:
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Thanks Erich.
I'm drawing at the moment, folks, so there won't be an awful lot to report in the next 3 months. I'm hoping to do a couple of days a week work on the house, with the oak around the stairwell my next priority, but don't expect to see much for a while.
I'm drawing at the moment, folks, so there won't be an awful lot to report in the next 3 months. I'm hoping to do a couple of days a week work on the house, with the oak around the stairwell my next priority, but don't expect to see much for a while.
Rod
Old Oak
Oh dear, life on here will not be the same.
Rod
Rod
Mike G":1dvc8lam said:
I guess you have to pay the bills somehow and recharge the batteries and let the back recover fully.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
I'm tired of sitting drawing. I've had a couple of days away from the computer in the last week or so, and have cleaned up some oak and made a joint or two. You've seen enough of this over the years, so here is the pile:
Here is one of the more awkward joints:
Now, the problem. I received this delivery of oak before christmas, and immediately fired off an email to the supplier notifying them that there was a problem with the quality, but that I wouldn't know the extent of the issues for a couple of months until I got the pile open. I have now used almost all the useable stuff. This is rubbish:
So is the stuff on the right here. The only useable timber I have left from the pile is on the left, and it's barely useable at that:
I can foresee a bun fight. I hope I don't have to take them to the small claims court. All I want is the sap and wane-free timber I ordered. There's a bloody great inclusion in one piece as well, with bark on both sides of it in the middle of the wood!
Anyway, the crappy timber means I haven't enough to finish the next phase of work, which is the major exercise around the stairwell, which involves structural two door "frames". So, with a bit of time on my hands today, I had to look around for something else to do. I decided to tackle the support for the eaves beam. Let me explain. This is the existing situation:
The first is looking from the new into the old part of the house, and the latter is from old towards new. That remnant framing needs to come out, (and eventually so will the girding beam at floor level). However, slap bang in the middle of it is a scarf joint:
Revealed after removing the studs:
And that beam holds the entire weight of the roof. The scarf would eventually fail. Some while back I had a piece of steel made up, so I raised it carefully into position using props and wedges, and coach screwd it in place:
It's a 100 x 100 angle out of 10mm steel. If you ever come to visit me, this is what you will bang your head on as you go through from the old part of the house to the new:
It will be supported on two new 2 storey 150x150 posts, one of which I have prepared. I foresee some fun getting them into position. It was a little awkward working over this drop, but there was nothing I could safely put a board on:
Here is one of the more awkward joints:
Now, the problem. I received this delivery of oak before christmas, and immediately fired off an email to the supplier notifying them that there was a problem with the quality, but that I wouldn't know the extent of the issues for a couple of months until I got the pile open. I have now used almost all the useable stuff. This is rubbish:
So is the stuff on the right here. The only useable timber I have left from the pile is on the left, and it's barely useable at that:
I can foresee a bun fight. I hope I don't have to take them to the small claims court. All I want is the sap and wane-free timber I ordered. There's a bloody great inclusion in one piece as well, with bark on both sides of it in the middle of the wood!
Anyway, the crappy timber means I haven't enough to finish the next phase of work, which is the major exercise around the stairwell, which involves structural two door "frames". So, with a bit of time on my hands today, I had to look around for something else to do. I decided to tackle the support for the eaves beam. Let me explain. This is the existing situation:
The first is looking from the new into the old part of the house, and the latter is from old towards new. That remnant framing needs to come out, (and eventually so will the girding beam at floor level). However, slap bang in the middle of it is a scarf joint:
Revealed after removing the studs:
And that beam holds the entire weight of the roof. The scarf would eventually fail. Some while back I had a piece of steel made up, so I raised it carefully into position using props and wedges, and coach screwd it in place:
It's a 100 x 100 angle out of 10mm steel. If you ever come to visit me, this is what you will bang your head on as you go through from the old part of the house to the new:
It will be supported on two new 2 storey 150x150 posts, one of which I have prepared. I foresee some fun getting them into position. It was a little awkward working over this drop, but there was nothing I could safely put a board on:
Rod
Old Oak
Nice to see you working on the house again
Rod
Rod
Commander
Sapling
Great to see an update Mike! I can imagine the building site would call out to you after a couple of weeks!
Phil
Old Oak
Welcome back Mike. 
Good to read progress, challenges and your way of getting around them. Facinating construction.
Cheers
Good to read progress, challenges and your way of getting around them. Facinating construction.
Cheers
Mike G
Petrified Pine
I've had a few days away from the computer, and have taken on the task of finishing the Study. After clearing it out, the first job was to chase in all the electrics, phone and data cables:
Next, I stuck plasterboard to the blockwork of the plinth, deliberately short of the top so that I could bevel the top of the plasterwork in under the sole plate. Here is the foam adhesive applied to the back:
And the plasterboard in place, held temporarily by a few screws into the blocks:
Boarding over the ceiling came next. This involved quite a lot of preparatory work to provide fixing timbers at the appropriate level. Before:
During:
After:
This is how I tack a ceiling alone:
Pre-screwed, I fix a temporary batten on the wall to support one edge of the board, and have a "dead-man" to hand to help me support the rest. I use a milk crate and some blocks to get to a level where I can support the board tight to the joists with my head, and breath a sigh of relief after I've got the first half dozen screws in tight.
The ceiling in the old part of the house has been my major quandry for some while. It is a much-messed with lath and plaster original ceiling, but with a modern paint finish. If it wasn't for that paint, I would almost certainly have taken a different approach, but with the paint there, it is impossible to replaster over the existing. Unfortunately, the paint doesn't easily come off. So, in the spirit of choosing your battles carefully, I opted to board over the entire ceiling, trapping the old one up there for posterity, and if anyone wants to reveal it in future it will be there for them, untouched.
Next, I boarded the walls. This involved planting battens on the sides of the oak posts which were remaining on show:
I have never plastered a ceiling, but because it was divided up into convenient areas by a couple of beams, I thought I would give it a go. I am using an unusual plaster ("Universal One-Coat") because it produces a grainy finish like lime plaster, rather than a shiny finish like the normal "pink". Despite its name, it gets 2 coats, and with boards to support me close to the ceiling, it was rather easier than I thought it would be. It actually went rather well, despite my wooden hawk (you know how you knock something together temporarily, and still find yourself using it 25 years later?), and my float from the £1 bargain basket at a local DIY shop, again, probably 25 years ago:
The oak is all taped up, but it only took a couple of days to plaster the whole room:
I did the plinth with "bonding", an undercoat plaster designed for difficult substrates and very uneven walls, and supposed to be skimmed over with a finishing plaster. However, as I am trying to replicate the look of a rendered brickwork plinth, which were always rough as old boots, I used it as a finishing plaster, and didn't make any effort to produce a flat surface (although I took all tool marks out).
So back to the computer now for the next couple of days to allow everything to dry thoroughly, then decorating, strip the masking tape off, fit the electrics, lay a carpet, and move the furniture in......
-
In a long-awaited development, my timber supplier has agreed to replace the faulty oak. I had ground to a halt on oak work as I ran out of usable timber, but will be able to resume the major construction around the new stair opening shortly. It's the biggest jigsaw puzzle you've ever seen.
Next, I stuck plasterboard to the blockwork of the plinth, deliberately short of the top so that I could bevel the top of the plasterwork in under the sole plate. Here is the foam adhesive applied to the back:
And the plasterboard in place, held temporarily by a few screws into the blocks:
Boarding over the ceiling came next. This involved quite a lot of preparatory work to provide fixing timbers at the appropriate level. Before:
During:
After:
This is how I tack a ceiling alone:
Pre-screwed, I fix a temporary batten on the wall to support one edge of the board, and have a "dead-man" to hand to help me support the rest. I use a milk crate and some blocks to get to a level where I can support the board tight to the joists with my head, and breath a sigh of relief after I've got the first half dozen screws in tight.
The ceiling in the old part of the house has been my major quandry for some while. It is a much-messed with lath and plaster original ceiling, but with a modern paint finish. If it wasn't for that paint, I would almost certainly have taken a different approach, but with the paint there, it is impossible to replaster over the existing. Unfortunately, the paint doesn't easily come off. So, in the spirit of choosing your battles carefully, I opted to board over the entire ceiling, trapping the old one up there for posterity, and if anyone wants to reveal it in future it will be there for them, untouched.
Next, I boarded the walls. This involved planting battens on the sides of the oak posts which were remaining on show:
I have never plastered a ceiling, but because it was divided up into convenient areas by a couple of beams, I thought I would give it a go. I am using an unusual plaster ("Universal One-Coat") because it produces a grainy finish like lime plaster, rather than a shiny finish like the normal "pink". Despite its name, it gets 2 coats, and with boards to support me close to the ceiling, it was rather easier than I thought it would be. It actually went rather well, despite my wooden hawk (you know how you knock something together temporarily, and still find yourself using it 25 years later?), and my float from the £1 bargain basket at a local DIY shop, again, probably 25 years ago:
The oak is all taped up, but it only took a couple of days to plaster the whole room:
I did the plinth with "bonding", an undercoat plaster designed for difficult substrates and very uneven walls, and supposed to be skimmed over with a finishing plaster. However, as I am trying to replicate the look of a rendered brickwork plinth, which were always rough as old boots, I used it as a finishing plaster, and didn't make any effort to produce a flat surface (although I took all tool marks out).
So back to the computer now for the next couple of days to allow everything to dry thoroughly, then decorating, strip the masking tape off, fit the electrics, lay a carpet, and move the furniture in......
-
In a long-awaited development, my timber supplier has agreed to replace the faulty oak. I had ground to a halt on oak work as I ran out of usable timber, but will be able to resume the major construction around the new stair opening shortly. It's the biggest jigsaw puzzle you've ever seen.
No problems with your back after all that plastering? Made mine twinge just reading about it 
I know what you mean about that sigh of relief when a few screws are in a board over your head. I used two T props on my own. One leaned against the wall to put one edge on, and the other to hand ready to jam the board against the ceiling once lifted.
Are you going to strengthen that bonding coat somehow? I'd have thought it too soft for a finished wall.
I know what you mean about that sigh of relief when a few screws are in a board over your head. I used two T props on my own. One leaned against the wall to put one edge on, and the other to hand ready to jam the board against the ceiling once lifted.
Are you going to strengthen that bonding coat somehow? I'd have thought it too soft for a finished wall.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
I'd had a minor procedure done on my back a few days before doing the ceiling, but was nothing more than a little stiff after finishing it. It was certainly hard work on the shoulder though. I've never been good working above my head.
You're right that bonding is softer than finishing plaster, but I've done this before, and it does work pretty well. I'm not sure I'd do it in a high traffic area, but in the study and dining room it will be fine. In the hall, I might just put a thin skin of finishing plaster on top.
You're right that bonding is softer than finishing plaster, but I've done this before, and it does work pretty well. I'm not sure I'd do it in a high traffic area, but in the study and dining room it will be fine. In the hall, I might just put a thin skin of finishing plaster on top.
Commander
Sapling
Malc2098":kwis9vq1 said:Good reading and viewing, Mike. Anyone who can plaster, is a god in my book!!!
I don't foresee ever even trying to plaster! :lol:
Malc2098
Sequoia
Commander":jgzd9aab said:Malc2098":jgzd9aab said:Good reading and viewing, Mike. Anyone who can plaster, is a god in my book!!!
I don't foresee ever even trying to plaster! :lol:
The only plastering I ever do these days involves a product call Band Aid! And probably more often than is desirable!! :lol:
DaveL
Old Oak
That's good progress Mike, glad to see rooms coming together. I have used browning, it goes on relatively easy but could never get a good surface with finnish.
When I helped my Dad built a room on the bungalow we lived in until I was 20, plastering was one of the two things he would not try to do himself, the other was the hot tar felting on the flat roof, so well done to you. [emoji122]
When I helped my Dad built a room on the bungalow we lived in until I was 20, plastering was one of the two things he would not try to do himself, the other was the hot tar felting on the flat roof, so well done to you. [emoji122]
Mike G
Petrified Pine
That's the point of the bonding, Dave..........to NOT get a good finish. I want it to look rough and ready.
When the plasterer did the new part of my house, I watched him, and talked to him about what he was doing. The actual skills (knocking up the mix, handling a hawk and float, smoothing the surface, and so on) aren't difficult. What you need to know is the general approach, the consistency of the mix, at what stage of drying you start flattening it again, how to get the last of the tool marks out, how to finish around the edges, and so on, and honestly once you've watched a pro do it, it isn't that hard.........in a manageable area. Tackling a whole ceiling in a big room would be too risky. I'd get a plasterer in to do that.
When the plasterer did the new part of my house, I watched him, and talked to him about what he was doing. The actual skills (knocking up the mix, handling a hawk and float, smoothing the surface, and so on) aren't difficult. What you need to know is the general approach, the consistency of the mix, at what stage of drying you start flattening it again, how to get the last of the tool marks out, how to finish around the edges, and so on, and honestly once you've watched a pro do it, it isn't that hard.........in a manageable area. Tackling a whole ceiling in a big room would be too risky. I'd get a plasterer in to do that.
Looking great Mike, seriously impressive
I bought one of the plasterboard lifters for the farm. It made it breeze to board out, I won't be going back to using dead men any time soon. I used a graco spray plastering rig and then trowelled it off, I'm really pleased with how it came out.
I bought one of the plasterboard lifters for the farm. It made it breeze to board out, I won't be going back to using dead men any time soon. I used a graco spray plastering rig and then trowelled it off, I'm really pleased with how it came out.